Wrightwood all the way, most or all seals/o-rings are viton (green), and get the Elring RMS from them too (while your in there)...

I went for Wrightwood am happy I did. Didn't see the kit on PP so bought it from EBS - very nice guys. Haven't received it yet. I bought an Elring RMS from Pelican and will drive it in, dry, with a home depot version of the Porsche tool as soon as I get the existing one out. Which is not that easy since I mounted the yoke to the same side of the case as the "1 o'clock" recess that facilitates RMS removal.

So.... turns out I ordered the G50 shifter shaft seal instead of the input shaft seal.

1. Very little is posted about the shift shaft seal here - presuming nothing special required to change it?
2. I would really like to ignore the input shaft seal. I hate the smell of trans fluid and can not smell a drop. Have no reason to believe its leaking. It also seems like a huge pain in the ass to change this thing. Someone please sanction this decision.

I only change my Main Shaft Seal because I suspected a leak...

Turn out there was one as it was perfectly clean when I re-split a few years later.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1294572870.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1294574348.jpg[/QUOTE]

I will reveal the trick if you explain your user name.

Shift shaft seal is very easy to replace. Probably don't even need to replace it. No signs of leakage? Don't disturb it. But it is very easy because there's a metal ring molded into the exterior of the seal. You just use a hammer and lightly tap on the ring to drive the seal out of the bore. Use a suitable sized large socket on the ring to drive the new seal in.

The mainshaft seal is quite difficult to remove because you have to come up with a puller solution. Or, do the smart thing Smoove1010 did. Don't hassle yourself trying to wrestle the seal out from the bellhousing side. Just take the diff cover off, remove diff and drive the seal out from the inside of the diff housing.

Spam bot.

First spam bot I've ever met who wanted to know how to install a slave cylinder rather than refinancing my Viagra loan.

Kevin & all -

Remind me what the "upper" surface on the flywheel mates against and how perfect it needs to be? The clutch disc doesn't seat against it (see test fit with old disc), so I'm guessing that the "main" face of the flywheel is the only one that would contribute to chattering.

I ask because the accumulated rubber bits around the periphery (the area that the clutch disc does NOT contact) and on that "upper" surface probably trapped some condensation over time and I have little spots of corrosion there. I've naval jelly & wire brushed most of them away but some are persistent. How critical is this area?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1382641760.jpg

That area just needs to be flat. If it's not flat then the clutch doesn't seat on the flywheel well and you can get chattering from uneven engagement of the clutch "foot"

Also, when a flywheel is resurfaced, it's cut on both of those surfaces to maintain the same distance between both surfaces. Cutting them both the same amount maintains the same amount of clutch foot travel

If yours has just a bit of corrosion on it, i'd not worry too much. There's no spinning contact on that upper surface because obviously the clutch is screwed onto it. Just needs to be flat.

Thanks Kevin. I wiped it down, pressed in the new pilot bearing then put it aside.

Proceeding onto seal replacement.

I got a good "start" on the flywheel shaft seal by whacking at the 1 O'clock position and will pick one of these up to try and pry it free: Seal Puller

I tipped the tranny at a 45deg angle with the input shaft facing down to "test" the input shaft seal. After a few hours I could wet my finger with some trans fluid. Not sure if this is a fair test of the way the seal performs when the car is on the road, but considering I also MAPP'd the hell out of the guide tube screws and now see that the shaft seal probably got baked in the process, I guess I gotta bite the bullet and replace this SOB.

I know Smoove votes for removing the diff and doing it right. That technique is certainly under consideration.

Has anyone else tried this approach which is said to replicate the Porsche tool? http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/735021-964-g50-input-shaft-seal-removal.html

Say I succeeded in using that pipe extractor - how would you drive the new one home but not into the trans?

Thanks Kevin. I wiped it down, pressed in the new pilot bearing then put it aside.

Proceeding onto seal replacement.

I got a good "start" on the flywheel shaft seal by whacking at the 1 O'clock position and will pick one of these up to try and pry it free: Seal Puller

I tipped the tranny at a 45deg angle with the input shaft facing down to "test" the input shaft seal. After a few hours I could wet my finger with some trans fluid. Not sure if this is a fair test of the way the seal performs when the car is on the road, but considering I also MAPP'd the hell out of the guide tube screws and now see that the shaft seal probably got baked in the process, I guess I gotta bite the bullet and replace this SOB.

I know Smoove votes for removing the diff and doing it right. That technique is certainly under consideration.

Has anyone else tried this approach which is said to replicate the Porsche tool? http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/735021-964-g50-input-shaft-seal-removal.html

Say I succeeded in using that pipe extractor - how would you drive the new one home but not into the trans?

I usually just whack the seal at the notch hard enough to deform it and then it comes free with some light prying via a seal removal tool at local hardware store. One of these Lisle types.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1382713968.jpg

I think that test is a good one. I've had my 915 out of the racecar for a long time. Been sitting upright on the bellhousing on a couple of 2x8s and no sign of gear oil getting past the seal. Granted, my trans is empty of oil. But still over time there would be enough residual that would eventually pool at the seal from sitting upright for so long.

That pipe removal tool is very ingenious! But honestly, don't hesitate to pull the diff out. It's VERY easy. Remove center bolts from diff output flanges by installing a couple of CV bolts and using those bolts for counterholding by slipping a pipe or wood dowel (broom handle?) between the bolts. Center bolts of the flanges are not real tight. Then take off diff housing cover and pop it free by striking the edges with a rubber mallet. Diff comes right out after that. Now you can drive your old seal into the diff housing and mangle the hell out of it with a pair of side cutters to cut it off the shaft.

Drive the new seal in with a length of 1-1/2" or 2" PVC pipe, can't remember which size. I like to use a PVC coupler fitting because they're already straight on the end. When you cut a straight piece of pipe, its usually crooked- for me at least. I couldn't cut anything straight if my life depended on it.....

The key to the pipe size is that its inside dia. is small enough to line up with the seal and the outside diameter is large enough so that it contacts the trans case, thereby ensuring you can only drive it flush with the case and no deeper.

Agreed.
This is the tool I describe in the other thread. I use this going at the inside diameter of the seal and use a plastic screw driver handle or block of wood as a fulcrum over the crank.

The flywheel seal came out without too much drama using the HF tool I posted above. I "dented' the metal portion of the old seal then gripped it with the tooth of the puller and used repeated little tugs to get the seal free.

What is the right tool to use to "ease" the edge of the case so it doesn't scratch the new seal on the way in?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1382837800.jpg


And a bigger question... even though they look very clean to me, I think it makes sense to replace my coated dilvar lowers with steel lowers. I'd like to stick to my plan not to remove the P's from the C's.

How exactly do you get the wrist pins out of the pistons if you want to leave them in the jugs? I got the clip out of no 1 and tapped the wrist pin towards no 2 then realized I was out of room. What sequence does this happen in?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1382837779.jpg

I have just done this. You need to make a small hooked tool which will fit through the wrist pin and you can then hook onto the other side and pull it out towards the ends of the engine. I used a metal coat hanger. Make sure that the hook is smaller than the wall thickness of the wrist pin so you remove any risk of scratching the small end bearing bush. Some of my wrist pins didn't exactly just 'slide' out and I eventually used a piece of stiffer wire for some of the pins with the hook made at one end and a loop at the other which I could put a bar through and pull/tap/hit as required, to drift the pin out.

My cylinders didn't have that third lower sections to them.

That's the piston, whiz...

I got them all off with the pistons in the bores. Then accidentally pulled on of the pistons out. No big deal. I'll measure the lands etc then put it back together.

How do you all recommend I pull the studs? Smoove I think you used a pipe wrench? Will a tool like this that can be used with an impact wrench be a better bet?
Titan Stud Puller - 3/8in. Drive, Model 16023 - Amazon.com
Amazon.com: Powerbuilt 647082 Metric Stud Puller - 4 Piece: Automotive

The lowers, which I will be pulling, look very clean, no corrosion or irregularities, minimal chipping of the coating, so I'm hoping for a smooth removal process.

I used a stud extractor of type as shown in your amazon link except for one which was broken off too close to the case, at which location I used an extractor as shown in your second link! The first type that has rollers inside which grip the stud as it is rotated. I didn't use any heat, just turned them and after an initial crack when the Loctite let go, it was easy. Two other broken ones I had that were flush with the case I had professionally removed though! I had 7 of the lower 12 snapped on my engine!

I used the Titan version (on the Heat Exchanger) which got a grip like a normal drill chuck.

As the were no movement by hand, I use an air gun starting at low pressure (IIRC 25 pound and increase in 5 pound step. Work like a charm, only broke 2, one came out and had to drill the other.