Do you guys literally not idle at all? Do you do your leak checks during the oil pressure building pre cranking, then just set right out and drive?

Valve adjustment at 500 mi?

Smoove why the switch from rotella to delo? I see delo mentioned in many break in threads but not the zddp threads. Does it have the recommended ppms?

No costco for me but looks like autozone has gallons of both rotella and delo for $18.

Here was my approach - I went this way after digesting dozens of threads from respected voices on this forum, and taking what I thought made the most sense from each:
- Pulled fuel pump relay, cranked engine over until oil pressure built up - took less than :30;
- Installed fuel pump relay, turned key on to active fuel pump - inspected all fuel lines and connections visually for leakage while pump was running and system pressurized;
- Start car - lit up pretty quick! Raised idle for a few seconds, then shut-er down for the night. Inspected all oil connections for leakage. Replaced bumper, rear valance, etc.
- Next day - started the car, took her out for the first break-in run.

Since the cams and rockers were put back as they were, I didn't do the 20-minute high-idle cam-break-in procedure, I instead skipped right to the ring-break-in procedure.

I've spent more time reading "best oil" threads than I care to admit (as I'm sure you have) and there's plenty of great info on this, some of it contradictory. There are recent thread entries from respected Pelicans endorsing both Rotella and Delo, so I picked up what was convenient at the time.

I'm thinking I'll readjust the valves if/when I notice that they are getting noisy, but no later than 2,000 miles - probably next Summer depending on how much driving I do. She's been running so well I don't care to mess with a good thing. I'll probably be doing this as much to re-torque the head nuts and check for rocker shaft leakage/movement as checking valve clearance.

I'll see if I can locate a few of the oil-related posts that swayed me and forward them to you.
GK

Engine is off-stand, on the ATV jack. Balance point seems like it'll be better w/o muffler.

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Flywheel shaft seal is installed, dry on the OD, tiny bit of oil on the ID, assembly lube on the back to retain the spring while I tapped it home. Tapped is a euphamism here... there were some more forceful blows needed. I used a combo of a large PVC pipe to start it as square as I could then a wood block to finish it off. It is more or less flush with the case, which is what the old one looked like.

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I got the T line support fixed to the regulator bracket. I realized that I'll need to clamp the hose that runs from the end of the T to the filter now as there won't be room for the oetiker pliers later. Do I have it clocked correctly?

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A warning to anyone following: don't forget to install the exhause x-over before the rear tin. And fasten down the CHT sensor before threading and clamping the connector end down otherwise you will twist it badly.

Also - can someone tell me what the flywheel pilot bearing does? Unless I'm missing something, i can't see what bears on its ID? The end of the input shaft?

Yup, it supports the trans input shaft and the clutch disc that ride on it..

Few more dumb clutch questions. Not an assembly I have worked on many times previously.

- I have all the pressure plate to flywheel bolts at 18 ft-lbs and there is still a gap between the pressure plate at the flywheel (see 12 o'clock where shiny new pressure plate meets crusty old flywheel ring gear). I just want to be sure that I wasn't supposed to tap the clutch/pp assembly all the way home before torquing the bolts?

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- The little packet of grease that came with the sachs kit is labeled spline grease and I therefore presume it goes on the splines of the input shaft. Anywhere else? I think I recall someone saying earlier to put a bit between the slave cyl plunger and release arm bearing srf?

- Anyone spot anything weird? What's the hole in the P/S front tin for? (look up and to the right of the two bolts holding the tin to the oil cooler)

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Why not clamp the fuel hose in place at the regulator and re-do the clamp on the other end? Meaning, do the clocking at the fuel filter.

Yep the grease goes on the input shaft splines. Use a brush and put it on very thin. Old toothbrush works good since the bristles are stiff enough to brush off the excess. Also put a thin coat of the grease on the release bearing & release fork contact points.

I think the clutch is OK. The 9 bolts do a very good job of pulling the clutch housing in place. So I don't think there's a gap where the clutch housing meets the flywheel surface. Nonetheless, doublecheck your tightness and go around all the bolts again. It's easy for the bolts to be loose due to all the criss-crossing you do as you tighten down the clutch.

The 20 min. high idle thing is contrary to what you want to do for breaking in the rings. I think the 20 min. recommendation has been misinterpreted by a lot of people over the years. The 20 min. is a recommendation to not let the rpms fall below 2000 in order to ensure the cams get adequate lubrication. But that doesn't mean you should let it idle at 2000 for 20 min. Drive it right away and just don't let the rpms fall below 2000.

Yep, clocking at the fuel filter should work. There is a built in curvature to the hose I'd like to get right, but that'll relax with time I suppose.

Does anyone have a picture of a stock sachs G50 clutch and flywheel, mated to help me be sure that the gap I'm seeing is acceptable? In other words, when the shoulder of the PP is resting on the step in the flywheel, is there a gap visible between the two when viewed from the outside, like the pic in my prev post?

billjam went thru a lot of grief trying to make up his custom clutch in a 3.6 conversion. He posted this picture when he was comparing the stacked height of a stock clutch vs. his work in progress

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1368419198.jpg

Awesome - thanks Kevin!

Tranny is on the motor... but not without a pain.

Lessons learned:

1. I didn't have the clutch aligned. I must have put the alignment tool in then removed it too early (when the flywheel to PP bolts were finger tight maybe?) This time I left it in until everything was torqued down.
2. Check for engine tin interference. The P/S front tin @ TDC sensor is very floppy and had gotten distorted so that it was not sitting on top of the case but down by the trans/case mating surfaces.

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While wrestling with the trans I could see the teeth of the starter gear gnaw the bellhousing a bit. With everything torqued down, I rotated the motor and found that for about 10-15 degrees of its rotation I can hear and feel some resistance from the starter gear to bellhousing. Is this something to worry about? I know its not great, but my feeling is that over time rotation will wear down the flat spots.

Bribe a buddy in for some beers, get a stethoscope (~$5 at the local HF lookalike) and try to pin point and eliminate the source of the dragging noise (your body rotating the engine and you listening).

As they say, an once of prevention is worth .5 Kilo of something…

Search results for: 'stethoscope'

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I can buy one just like it at HF, but what would the remedy be for a dragging ring gear?

I gnarled it a bit when I first put the trans on/off with the clutch misaligned. I lightly filed down the highspots, but presume some more formed on my second trans install or I wasn't aggressive enough with removing them to begin with.

There should be no interference, I would pull it and see exactly what is happening. You didn't drop it I hope, mine fell 4" off the side of my floor jack and distorted the starter housing (starter was removed). I opened it back up again so the starter went in but there is some sort of misalignment and I have to replace the front housing this winter as it's eating both ring gear and starter gear... doesn't take much at all to mess that housing up!

It was never dropped. Do the studs on the case bend?

Doubtful once the tranny is tight against the engine. You would notice that when trying to align the holes to slide it onto the studs.

Wouldn't matter if the studs are bent a bit as long as the mating surfaces close-up when you tighten the nuts. Loosen up the trans nuts and shift the trans side-side if you can? But I doubt you can shift it much at all.

Once the tip of the mainshaft engages the pilot bearing in the flywheel and the release bearing guide tube engages the release bearing, you're not going to shift the trans a whole lot..... It's pretty common to see some teeth marks on the bellhousing of a G50. The large diameter flywheel is really close to the bellhousing in some spots.

True, once the shaft has engaged and everything is torqued, the tranny should be aligned. I suppose I'm trying to figure out how I gnarled the bellhousing. If the studs are a bit bent or my angle of attack wasn't perfect I suppose I could have gouged the bellhousing on the way in?

Pull it all apart or let it "self machine"? I guess I know what the "right" answer is... just wondering how to get a better result the third time I put it together.

Hang in there Russ!! You're doing great!!

Lets start with the important stuff:

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Now that we've established that...
The catching sound in the bellhousing was alleviated when I adjusted the position of the motor on the ATV jack I suppose a bit or torsion was being introduced on account of the angle of the two. I have to say that in my case the ATV jack + Dolly has proved to be quite a pain. It is really very difficult to push the jack on account of the flimsy handle. I ended up hitching myself to the thing like a horse and pulling it into the garage.

A few questions -

I realized a bit late that Wayne's book recommends leveling the motor mount carrier (#6 below) off the heads whereas Bentely didn't say anything about this procedure that I could find. How should I go about doing this at this point?

Also in the diagram below, can the bolts #4 be removed with the engine in place? I ask because the muffler I'm using requires a bracket that I won't have until tomorrow. I can't install it on the ATV jack. There are other bolts holding the engine bracket to the engine but it seems like a sort of dicey move.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1386124236.jpg

Unless I stepped on it without realizing it (possible) the throttle lever doesn't seem long enough to meet up with the crank on the trans. Anyone see anything stupid?


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