Great.

Now for you oil cooler, keep an eye (or two) on it to see if the seal will leak.

Mine did right away (PFM green). I end up going through different sets of ring before I find one that did not seeped. The Red/Brown from Elring (installed) & my original Red did not seep.

Check http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/609149-oil-cooler-seals-leekage-engine-wall.html for more details

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1306861983.jpg[/

So... you're saying I have the good oil cooler seals?
Part of the reason I sprung for the WW gasket kit was to (hopefully) recuese myself from over thinking the options out there and just get "the good stuff".

One more question I meant to ask - Why did my rockers tighten up on the shafts? I understand that the radial splits in the shafts (where the RSR seals would go if I used them) are intended to allow the ends of the shafts to expand while the center stays true. Is it the case that with higher than factory torque used, the center does slightly expand? My instinct (although I'm bad at these physics brain teasers) is that the tolerance will open up when the motor is warm, meaning if it doesn't seize when its cold, it won't when its warm. But I'd like someone to verify that.

Look like it. My old red and new Red/Brown did not leak on the wall nor under normal operation. But do keep an eye on it.

I'd love to see an answer from a more experienced Pelican on the sticking rocker shafts. How high did you torque them when they got sticky? How high do you think they were torqued before they became un-sticky? I didn't experience any of this in my project, and if I recall, I gave it the extra 4-5 lbs. recommended on the forum for used shafts in a used cam housing.

Re: the motor mounts - given your deadline, unless they were broken or clearly about to break, I'd suggest putting the old ones back. They are easy to replace with the engine in anyway. The trans mounts on the G50's are built in to the cross-member, so the whole thing gets replaced, and it's not cheap. If someone came up with a retro-fit for this, I haven't been able to find it.

Looking good - keep that momentum going!

GK

How did you center the shaft in the cam housing? If you center incorrectly then the rocker/shaft will drag.

I installed the rocker shafts such that just a tiny lip was protruding from the short side of the casting. The rocker shafts were not aggressively cleaned, so there was a belt line of discoloration where they had previously been proud of the casting, and I used these as a reference datum.

The rockers were all torqued to 200 in-lbs (~16.5 ft-lbs). They were installed semi-dry, by this I mean there was a smear of assembly lube on the leading edge of each shaft to help guide them in. Those that got sticky needed to be backed out about... I'd say 30-90 degrees before they felt better.

Dumb question - a long extension doesn't change the accuracy of a torque wrench appreciably does it? The loads are axial to the fastener (no offsets).

When I did mine if they were not in the "right" position they would stick, once moved in/out a bit I could tighten/torque til the cows come home and they rotated freely..

If the tiny lip is too big you may need to move towards the large housing slightly. Here's a pic of mine... only one I could find showing alignment:

http://i458.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps904e373d.jpg

Oiled through the holes on each a few times before setting valve adjustment.

The lip on mine was larger than that. I'll take pictures tonight to show what I'm talking about with the discoloration that I used to index their location. Surely everyone's rockers have bands like this from being exposed to air instead of being locked in place.

These SOB rockers just won't get done. I guess I gotta take another look at them tonight.

You are going to want to seal this part of the casting with JB-Weld. There is a tech article about this.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384987045.jpg

No such thing as a dumb… Not asking and guessing is dumb :D

As long as you keep it the 90 degrees spot on, it does not affect the accuracy.

Ed,

I definitely did not use JB weld there but I don't remember seeing it… I'll have to check my pics :eek:

What is it and is the Tech Article in the PP folder?

Might be for a different engine?

A close up of r-mm pics does not shows the same "Form".

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384993220.jpg

Nope. ESully is spot on about epoxying that spot. All of the air cooled 6 cyl engines have a cast-in pipe in the case half. This pipe comes from the pressure side of the oil pump & supplies oil up to the bottom of the t-stat bore

Very good catch by ESully. That thin casting flaw often fools people into falsely believing they have a leaky
oil cooler or leaky oil cooler seal

Guys here are some pictures of my rockers. Are they too far proud of the casting? Can someone give me a visual means of alignment? Should the bevel of the shaft itself be visible? Or just the entire nut? Or should nearly everything be flush?

ifhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385007606.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385007618.jpg


Realizing that I can still get at the rockers (except for the oil cooler, which is easy to r/r) I went ahead and started adding the ancillaries as a sort of test fit. When I was done I started to wonder if its practical to pick the motor from the stand with intake and FI attached? Is this done? I picked it up onto the stand with my engine crane, attached to the eyelet and front x-member. Seems like it could be tricky to do that with the FI installed? I don't have any ceiling beams to hoist with.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385007822.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385007857.jpg

Back to the cam oil lines - doesn't it look like theres a bit of a pinch to the left of the left crimp? Strange because this is the one that fit perfectly with no strong-arming.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385008047.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385030974.jpg

Mine looked like the pic that Lapkritis posted - just the top of the "nut" stood a little proud of the flange. I think you want the entirety of the shaft itself to be buried in that bore.

Minor set-back - you'll be hitting the key in no time...

Sounds like its rockers out again. This time I'm going to measure them precisely and then measure the bores and take the guesswork out of this. The feeler gauge + 1.6mm (or whatever it is) is not a very easy way to do this given the geometry at play. Honestly, this seems like a weird and over complex way to handle something as simple as rockers. Wish Porsche had gone to the 993 style earlier. I'm looking over at my Alfa twin cam head and and thinking "that's nice and easy". Sure, adjusting shim under bucket valves is annoying if you need a larger shim, but geez these rockers seem trouble prone / easy to get wrong. Complex isn't bad... but something that gives you enough rope to hang yourself and no clues how to get it right is tricky.

JJ -not sure I understand your suggestion? Since I already have an ATV jack and crane, I'll be using those for the re-install. Just not certain how easy it is to lift the motor + intake + FI off the engine stand and onto the ATV jack, on account of routing the webbing around the intake etc.

Before I had the table, I use the ATV jack. I was able to go from the ATV jack to the wall by myself (would not try that again) but to take it from the wall back to the ATV Jack, 3 neighbors give me a hand in exchange of a few beers.

Also, a local Pelican had his on a engine stand like yours and four of us pick it up and drop it on the ATV jack.

You could also drop it on the ATV jack before you put everything back, get it stabilized (dense Styrofoam blocks under the heat exchanger) and complete the assembly on the jack.

The method I used to determine rocker position was to hold one over the bore. The rocker shaft should be aligned so that the rocker does not ride on the seal channel of the shaft. You may achieve this be centering the seal channel on the small housing side. This may look odd from the large housing side as the rocker shaft head will be buried deep in the bore.

Holding from above gives a good visualization:

http://i458.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps23d08823.jpg

If the seal channel is outside the housing when torqued then the rocker will drag.

Listen to your motor. That is the lesson I learned this week. Turns out the three rockers that were sticky I had installed flushed up to the THICK side of the casting. What a fool. Really glad I took the time (and it was a good 4 hours) to pull all the rockers and re-center, re-torque them. This time there was no hint of stickyness. I flushed up the rocker shaft itself to the thin side of the casting so that just the nut is proud of it.

Feel like I dodged a bullet on this one.

Also applied the JB Weld to the area of the casting inside (and outside) the Oil Cooler which Bentely specifies as having possible porosity in the casting. Not sure it would have lead to a gusher, but its easy enough to do since I had to remove the oil cooler anyway.

Now it should just be re-connections. Hardest things remaining are flywheel seal install (waiting til the motor is off-yoke) and the getting the motor off the yoke, onto the ATV jack, tranny attached etc etc.

One other sticking point: I finally got a 90 deg fuel line from len but the nut on the existing fitting is REALLY stuck on there. I can almost get at it with a deep impact socket. Smart? High-torque seems like a bad idea here... plenty to distort while trying to break it free.

Nice job dodging the bullet Russ, I will be calling you in a few weeks when it comes to my rocker install!!

Your casting isn't porous at all. It's missing altogether! What you see in your picture (slot highlighted by yellow box) is the actual steel pipe that is cast into the case half.

Back away with the deep socket. Bust out your Dremel tool with cutoff wheel and cut the nut vertically on one side to release it's grip on the regulator

I'm struggling to understand this... does oil transit thru the steel pipe or the casting walls? Is something amiss with my case?

Yep oil goes thru the steel pipe. So it's not like oil is going to squirt out of the place where a piece of the casting is missing. However there's potential for seepage and that's why they say to patch it up with epoxy.

Look closely at the Bentley image http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384991657.jpg and you see that the "dimples" are covered by the aluminum casting. Whereas on your case the thin bit of aluminum has fallen away. I suspect this leakage condition is similar to what we see with the plugs in the case for the oil galleys. If the galley plugs are missing the thick coating of epoxy, they tend to weep. Amazing how oil can find it's way thru very tight spaces and cause minor weep leaks.

I'm putting the tin back on and a few issues came up.

A/C bracket removal: did Porsche make a version of the rear tin without the cutout for this bracket? If so it would seem like one needs to patch the hole to avoid having the fan drawing hot air from below? Besides cleaning things up and shaving a half pound, are there any maint tasks that are easier without this bracket? I'm sort of looking for the path of lease resistance, but would love to clean things up.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385179963.jpg

Cruise Control - I found the cruise control to be dangerous on this car - tripped it by mistake a few times. Plus it adds clutter to the engine bay. I removed the control cable. Debating If I should remove the servo or just leave it. If leave it - leave the vacuum fitting conntected? Remove and cap it?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385179984.jpg

Casting JB welded at oil pipe


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385180065.jpg

Covering it up is the easiest way but took me a while to find something to cover the hole left by the heat backdating. You could "plaque" yours.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385206791.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385206833.jpg

Ha, that would do the trick. Im still curious to know if non ac cars were supplied with a different tin, or some sort of factory block off plate...

Use a small rubber car to block off the vacuum nipple or cut the line and put s screw with some sealant in a 1" section of line.

Pinch all of the vacuum Oetiker clamps for good luck. They do come loose as the hose shrinks.

Make up a block off plate and pop rivet it into place.

Okay, will fab and rivet a plate to close off the bracket. Looks like theres an tapped portion of the chain cover I can use to fasten it as well. I really don't want this A/C bs cluttering up the bay and preventing me from seeing potential leaks etc.

A few small questions as I make my reconnections. Don't seem to have taken pictures that show these areas clearly.

1. There is a very long stud on the intake that I believe is where the fuel hard T line mounts to. I can't recall why this stud is so long. Does something else ride on this?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385234232.jpg

2. There is a bent yellow zinc piece to the side of the breather with a captive nut. Does the wire grommet thinggy for the fuel injector 4 pin connector attach to this?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385234249.jpg

Yes for the second question.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385236025.jpg

Connections are nearly complete. Anyone see any crossed wires? Backwards parts?

Going to drop the motor from the yoke to atv jack tomorrow and do the flywheel seal, flywheel / clutch / trans. I'll do as much as I can but somehow I'm not seeing my thanksgiving deadline. I might have it fire up by Monday or Tuesday, but it just doesn't leave enough shakedown time for an 800mi trip departing Tuesday night.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385264740.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385264750.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385264759.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385264769.jpg

Anyone have pics of a fully dressed motor being picked by a crane?

No Pics --- chain on front engine mount bolt near pulley
and connected to rear at bellhousing bolt with bar to hold chain or strap off of intake system
-- or steel bar with 2 chains to front and rear of engine.

Regards,

Where's the fuel line across the back???

Have you run a bamboo skewer with some fine sand paper into the electrical connectors to clean up the corrosion??

Replace fuel filter?

Charge battery?

Wow Russ, doing great! I am leaps and bounds behind you now!!

Good eye Jon - crossover fuel line being re-fab'd this am on account of it being too short by 1". Fuel filter - you referring to the one on the D/S of the engine bay? Is this an auto parts item or a pelican parts item? Haven't replaced.

I used Deoxit and blue (fine) scotchbright followed by deoxit flush on the electrical connections.

Coming down the home stretch!

I installed my intake after lowering the engine off the stand and onto a rolling cart - I know that's no help to you now...

You may already plan to do this, but I'd suggest you make as many connections on the trans side of the engine as you can before reinstalling the engine. I installed the half of the airbox that bolts to the AFM, installed the breather and vacuum lines - anything that would be really easy now, and a PITA when in the car. The down side is that there's more to keep an eye on when raising the engine into the bay and some risk of breakage, and airboxes can be brittle and can be expensive to replace.

It's easy to get into a rush-to-the-finish now - be sure to look over everything twice before taking each next step.

Good luck!
GK

Between the negative temps in my garage today and the tightness of my schedule, I'm just going to take my time.

I just epoxy repaired my airbox last night, seems to be holding up. Will install prior to engine install, along with the vacuum hoses.