Without the muffler there, plenty of room...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1386152820.jpg

mine is straight but its an 86.

While on the subject if the pivot point is stiff, its a good time to take it apart and clean.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1386165940.jpg

The G50 rod is bent for sure. here are pics of it on the way out. Maybe I accentuated a bend without realizing it...



I realize that there's space to remove the bracket when the muffler is off, but was wondering if its safe, as those bolts to a large degree are holding the motor in place. I suppose I can relieve them by jacking up the motor some.

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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1386166371.jpg

Yes, IIRC I put the bracket the wrong way the first time I dropped the engine and had to removed it and put it the right way while in-situ.

Yep that stock bracket is a bit confusing looking. I'm really glad to be done with it and the stock muffler, straps, cat, cat heat shield. Lotsa junk out of the way.

Any tips on leveling the motor carrier ? Am I over thinking this?

I wouldn't bother leveling the engine mount crossbar. It's going to take whatever set it wants once it bears its weight on the rubber engine mounts. You also may find that the crossbar needs some leaning on to get the ends to line up fore/aft with the holes in the engine mounts. No big deal, as this is quite common. The crossbar's strength is in the vertical direction, so flexing it fore/aft is a non-issue.

Yep your throttle rod is all bent up probably from grabbing the axle shaft on the way out. Bend it back carefully and take a close look at it. You may need to reinforce/weld it if the rod is showing some cracking where it's been sharply bent (not the first time I bet).

Thanks for the last minute tips, all. She's going up tonight! Must admit I did not sleep well last night thinking through all the things that could go wrong when I fire her up, but this comes with the territory.

Same here, I had my wife cranking her up while I monitor the engine bay. Nothing happened on the 5 sec crank but se start right away on the second try (actually she had never started it on the 1st shot even with the PMO/EFI conversion but I think I got it isolated to lost of fuel pressure due to a faulty gas pump check valve.

Yes, I was relieved even though oil was gushing out like crazy by the Oil Pressure Sensor. It turn out that the fitting was only hand tight.

Best of luck with the start-up.

The motor is in.

Sorry, no pics yet. Too late a night to d/l them.

The bulk of positioning, raising, lowering was cake. The final alignment to get the mounting bolts to thread was awful. I started with the motor on an ATV jack and the trans on a dolly. I rolled the motor roughly into place then lowered the car as far as I could while leaving decent access. Then I started raising the motor+trans up, which required me to use a jack on the trans. The jack isn't on casters so it makes lateral (and longitudinal) movement really annoying. I made it happen but it was cold and un-fun.

Left the garage the moment I heard the last click on my torque wrench so connections and oil pressure building are tonight's task. Clutch slave and FI multipin are connected. Once I get everything else hooked up...

-Disconnect fuel pump relay; this is in the frunk fuse block right?
-Leave spark plugs off
-Crank til I see pressure - what am I looking for? Consistent ~4bar?
-Check for oil leaks
-Turn off
-Reconnect fuel pump relay
-Turn key to run, check for fuel leaks
-Fire that SOB up

Hopefully you did not you the term in front of her... "She", like some woman. can be very vindictive :D:eek::D

Term of endearment.

WOW!!

What progress. Post a video ASAP after you crank her up!!

Not sure if the G-50 mount allows it but I loosen the four mounting bolts that attache the mount to the tranny on my 915, allows some movement and greatly eases getting the mount bolts lined up. I always do the tranny mounts first, then the rear engine, then sock everything down...

Congrats! I broke this job up into two parts just as you did, this allowed me to go about all the hook-ups with a clear head.

- The DME relay under the driver's seat gets disco'd - this cuts power to the fuel pump;
- On cranking, my oil pressure jumped a few times then pinned (as it always does when cold) in about :20 of cranking. I then did as you suggested (without calling her an SOB though...)

Good luck!

Thanks guys.

Hopefully this little fella will be making the right types of noises later on this evening...

Also looking forward to enhanced grumble from the Bursch & bypass.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1386268034.jpg

Gary - good tip on loosening the trans carrier to trans bolts for added adjustability. Didn't think of that.

No need to disconnect all the spark plug leads. Just disconnect the coil wire from the coil itself.

All the 911 builds i've done, when cranking the oil pressure gauge only wiggles. Just over zero but less than 1. When I got the racecar, which came with a mechanical gauge (oil line directly connected from gauge to engine, no electrical sending unit) the engine would only give just under 20 psi during cranking. Then when it fires it flies up to 100 psi

If it doesn't fire up (not trying to wish ill will on you) two easy checks that come to mind:


1. Make sure you've got the reference and timing sensors plugged in correctly. You can switch connections and the engine won't start, since connectors are exactly the same.

2. Make sure you connected the fuel injector harness that plugs into the harness plug in the middle of the rear shock absorber support.

Thanks Kevin. With the plugs I meant to say I left the plugs themselves out to help the motor turn over. I'll install them post oil pressure test. I got the 4 pin FI connector plugged in but sure I'll forget some little vacuum line somewhere...

Sorry I didn't tell you BEFORE the nightmare..... :)

I would leave the plugs in. Any residual oil in the cylinders that is there from assembly (there should be a good bit of oil since you don't want it to crank "dry") will be spewed out the spark plug holes and make a mess of your cam housings. Motor will crank over just fine with plugs in. Just make sure to put a charge on the battery!

Be sure the plug wires are in proper firing order and the number one is plugged into the number one terminal. It will save time, heart ache and homicidal thoughts after an engine drop, or so I have heard. Hope it all goes smoothly.

Scott

Well, she started. Turned her over for about thirty seconds and saw about 3 bar fairly quickly. Put the plugs in, reconnected dme relay, turn her over. Nothing. Flipped speed reference sensor plugs (thanks Kevin... But damn i thought i did a good job of labeling those, oh well) purrrrrr. I only let her run for a few seconds to test for leaks, etc. I was waiting to fasten down the cvs etc just in case i had a geyser and needed to redrop. So far so good. If i sound less than ecstatic its because I dont want a 'mission accomplished' moment... Want to run her hard before i declare victory. But... Feeling good.

Does putting her in first suffice to hold things down while the cv bolts are torqued?

Just set the parking brake. Best with two people since you have to move the wheel a bunch while you tighten the bolts.

CONGRATS!!

Need Video. I'm very envious!!

Congrats Rus!! 79 days from drop to lift. Excellent work.

E brake will do it for the cv bolts.

Finally before it gets to cold to work outside.

Excellent, with the weekend coming time to relax, help yourself;

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1386323666.jpg

Snow/Rain coming all weekend here in CT...... :(

good job! most excellent indeed...

Great news - Congrats! I hope you got some video... I totally understand your inclination to reserve the celebration, the mark of a man of science.

For the CV bolt install - I had my wheels off, so I used the crowbar wedged between the wheel-studs trick to hold the axle still while I torqued the CV bolts. This way I could do it single-handed (just like this pic borrowed from a CV rebuild thread.)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1386346858.jpg

Using a couple of long extensions, I did the whole operation on each side without having to get up once. Tighten a bolt, reposition the bar, tighten a bolt, etc...

Good luck!
GK

Congrats Rus. Glad I mentioned the reference sensor swap!

Similar to Smoove's trick for wedging the axle, I use a screwdriver inserted into the brake rotor vent. You place it so that when the axle rotates, the screwdriver wedges itself against the caliper. Then you don't have to fiddle with a long prybar or get out from under the car (if you were to put trans in gear or set parking brake) each time you want to rotate the axle

I use a screw driver in the brake caliper for a one person job on the CV bolts -- of course
the wheels need to be off . . . ;)

Regards,

Me and Roy think alike............ :D

Thanks for the kind words and tips all. This has been quite an odyssey. I started out looking at it as no big deal compared to the bare metal restoration I have idling in my garage, but as I got closer to completion the weight of doing everything right became quite intense. After all, nearly any oil leak means a re-drop. I'm certainly not out of the woods yet and do plan on posting a thorough recap, costs, observations and BIG acknowledgements & thanks after this weekend's shakedown..... but til then stay tuned for more questions!

Forgot to ask -

Is the little cloth covered vacuum line coming off the brake booster T in this pic related to the cruise control? I removed the cruise control throttle cable (don't want/need it) but can not for the life of me find where it connects to. I made a note on teardown "where does this go!?"

Can I just cap the nipple on the T?

BTW the pic was from before I connected the main leg of the T

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1386361071.jpg

Yep that's for the cruise vaccuum source. Just cap off the nipple with a short section of hose plugged with a screw if you can't find a good rubber cap.

Shakdown
 

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Took her out for what the Germans would call a probefahrt and was met with all good news. Clutch feels amazingly smooth and I swear shifting has gotten better, even in 40 degree weather in a not so hot car, it felt very nice.

Motor pulls strong and clean. I didn't take her past 4500 but found nothing amiss. Bursch BX1134 'quiet street' & cat bypass sound great. I get some minor popping on decel, which I don't mind at all, actually love, but want to make sure this is par for the course with a testpipe, not indicative of fueling problems.

Oil pressure looked a-okay, temperature built up nicely.

It was truly a rewarding drive, and more than anything just great be behind the wheel of a 911 again.

However.

Then I parked her to finish some heating ducting work and noticed a steady leak coming from the rear of the P/S exhaust valve cover / chain housing. The oil seems to be pooling in the little recess in the chain housing and then dripping down. You can see a drop about to fall in the pic below. I'm hoping this is a rocker leak not a cam seal leak, which would be a lot less fun to remedy. I'd also be a bit frustrated because I got the seal very well aligned, used a bit but not too much curil and was using the WW Racing gasket kit, in short, not sure what I could have done better.





Your thoughts?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1386441482.jpg

Looking at this picture from assembly it unfortunately seems like if the leak was coming from the rocker it would not gather in the semicircular recess in the chain housing where I believe the drips are coming from (need to look closer) but rather would drip between the two? Would the valve cover gasket cause it to jump over there for any reason?

At what pact do rockers leak? When the car is running at pressure I'm getting not a gush, but certainly a metronomic drip.

Could this be a valve cover leak?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1386441922.jpg

Suppose it makes most sense to pull the exhaust valve cover off to see if the rocker is leaking. How far cocked to the side does the car have to be to prevent a stream of oil coming out? At ten miles, I'm not quite ready for my first oil change.

It could, where you cannot see it on the side. I would thigh it a bit further down before taking the cover off.

I cleaned the area up then put this piece of cardboard in the gap between the chain cover and heads/cam carrier. The side shown was facing the chain housing, and was wet at the top near the cam seal. I didn't see anything on the other side. So unfortunately this is looking like the cam seal. Okay, take the motor back out, I can handle that. This is why I didn't let myself get out of the project mentality.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1386451590.jpg

What is vexing me is the cause of this. I looked all around the paper gasket and can't see anywhere it is obviously misaligned. Would the O-ring cause this leak if pinched? I used the green viton type and installed it with a film of motor oil.

Is the paper gasket the only type available? Pelican Parts - Product Information: 930-105-197-05-M17

Was Curil-T the wrong gasket dressing? I used a very light coat. Presuming I got the orientation of the paper gasket right, what else could I have gotten wrong?