Cheap and easy ATO fuse block installation

[donporfi]

The suggestion of Algernon to use the bussed fuse blocks probably is the best solution to the jumper problem.
These fuse block come in three fuses blocks, these blocks are riveted to an aluminum strip. We can use one bussed block where needed, just substitute it where it should go.
This is a bussed block for 3 fuses

[donporfi]

Just by looking at Algernon picture, probably I would use a three fuse bussed block instead of the regular blocks where the arrows are pointing. But it needs to be investigated a bit further.

[porwolf]

Originally Posted by donporfi

Just by looking at Algernon picture, probably I would use a three fuse bussed block instead of the regular blocks where the arrows are pointing. But it needs to be investigated a bit further.

I guess using the 3-circuit bussed blocks in combination with others one would have to remove the original mountig plates and fabricate a new single one that accomodates all the needed fuse blocks.

[donporfi]

Most probably you will need to change the mounting plate, but that would not be that hard. I do not have a bussed block and therefore I cannot experiment with it.

[fred cook]

The suggestion of Algernon to use the bussed fuse blocks probably is the best solution to the jumper problem.

These fuse block come in three fuses blocks, these blocks are riveted to an aluminum strip. We can use one bussed block where needed, just substitute it where it should go.

This is a bussed block for 3 fuses

I would be concerned that the buss strip is aluminum and not brass or copper.

[Algernon]

Originally Posted by fred cook

I would be concerned that the buss strip is aluminum and not brass or copper.

Fred, the aluminum is the rear support spine or mounting plate, not an electrical conductor.

[donporfi]

Algernon
The buss is aluminum as are the fuse contacts.

Fred
could you please explain why the aluminum is of a concern ?

[Canada Kev]

What's wrong with aluminum? It's actually a better electrical conductor than even copper. If there's a solid mechanical and electrical connection, it shouldn't be an issue at all.

[Unobtainium]

Great thread!

[timmy2]

The fear with aluminum wiring is well documented, there is a reason houses shouldn't be wired with it.
The repeated heating and cooling in an imperfect joint without the proper joint compound treatment for aluminum to other metals causes hot spots and possibly a fire if severe enough.
I replaced a lot of it when I was an apprentice. If a house is wired with aluminum wire in the walls, run away!

[porwolf]

Originally Posted by timmy2

The fear with aluminum wiring is well documented, there is a reason houses shouldn't be wired with it.
The repeated heating and cooling in an imperfect joint without the proper joint compound treatment for aluminum to other metals causes hot spots and possibly a fire if severe enough.
I replaced a lot of it when I was an apprentice. If a house is wired with aluminum wire in the walls, run away!

Probably not a concern at 12VDC.

Maybe even a bigger concern. For aluminum and another metal connections current is determining its fate not voltage.

[timmy2]

Yeah, I was going to edit it, but you beat me to it.
Going to be gone except for your quote in a minute...
Hit the dang send button while in the middle of a thought!

[donporfi]

Kevin
I think that is not correct, copper is a better conductor than aluminum, but is easily compensated by increasing the cross section of the conductor by aprox 1.6 times.

[fred cook]

Aluminum seems to be more problematic when used for electrical applications. As Timmy2 said above, you don't want a house wired with aluminum because of potential fire hazards. Also, aluminum tends to be pretty soft and could deform when tightening the connections. Another issue could be corrosion between dissimilar metals. Just some things to consider.

[Canada Kev]

Originally Posted by donporfi

Kevin
I think that is not correct, copper is a better conductor than aluminum, but is easily compensated by increasing the cross section of the conductor by aprox 1.6 times.

Yes, you are correct. I checked and I suppose I had been thinking something else. Brain fart, I guess...

[Algernon]

Originally Posted by donporfi

Algernon
The buss is aluminum as are the fuse contacts.

Oops! I missed that!
Hard to imagine why they did that rather than Nickel-plated brass like on the GEP parts! And then price it higher!
It just occurred to me that the bussed blocks have only 1 screw connection on the 'hot' side, and Porsche use the 'hot' side to take off un-fused power! So it might still be better to use un-bussed blocks and (solid?) jumpers to avoid overcrowding.

[GaryR]

Originally Posted by Algernon

Next time I do this, I will substitute one of these for the left hand group of fuses, to eliminate the 'big red' wire problem. These blocks already have the fuses ganged or 'bussed' together!
CE Auto Electric Supply - Fuse Holders
I wish now I'd seen them before. In fact I might retro-fit one if numbers fit.

Am I off, this looks like the best idea to me, comes in 3,6,9, and 15 position. Not sure how many different hot feeds there are (would assume two, either battery or ignition) but get a block for whatever you need. Not a good idea?

[donporfi]

I will order some bussed blocks and see how those would fit.

Algernon thanks for sharing your experience with these fuse blocks.

[Algernon]

Originally Posted by Algernon

Hard to imagine why they did that rather than Nickel-plated brass like on the GEP parts! And then price it higher!
It just occurred to me that the bussed blocks have only 1 screw connection on the 'hot' side, and Porsche use the 'hot' side to take off un-fused power! So it might still be better to use un-bussed blocks and (solid?) jumpers to avoid overcrowding.

donporfi,
watch out for above! Alum. and single 'hot' side screw may be not so good after all!

[donporfi]

OK, probably return to the copper or brass jumper.