Cheap and easy ATO fuse block installation

[Uwon]

Hey guys, I have been following this thread and am wondering if anybody has solved the connecting rail issue. I was just looking at my '86 donor wreck fuse block and notice that there is a connecting rail.



Part number is 901-612-835-01. $3.00 special order at PP. Measures 15mm center to center. Does this fit the ATO fuse box if you drill holes for the clamping screws)??
Cheers...

[porwolf]

I understand that the ATO fuse blocks mentioned earlier have a center to center spacing of 0.478" which translates to 11.2 mm.

[Uwon]

Missed that porwolf. I imagine that you can narrow it down the required 3.8 mm by bending a hump into the connecting rail. I'll pull mine out and give it a try. Let you know.

[Kraftwerk]

got to remember this for the 914 fuse pannel.
NTS

[Uwon]

I took out the connecting rail from my '86 911 donor wreck and I could easily bend it down to 11.2 mm. In the pic I realize that I only bent it to only 11.8.

The rail is .54 mm thick. Perhaps somebody can offer insight as to whether the thickness is adequate.

[donporfi]

Uwon
I think those will not work. You need a hole or something to fit under the screws.
Something like the molex jumpers or the ones that Algernon suggested. The fixing of the cables in the ATO/ATC fuse blocks is different than in the original fuse block.
Check the pictures of the differences of the fuse blocks.
My solution would be to fabricate the jumpers with a suitable material thickness. Or do what Algernon did, use cables as jumpers.

[Algernon]

Uwon,
look back at post #23, the Allied links are exactly right, 11.1mm spacing. Or look at post #33, these can be easily set to 11.1mm. The main thing is to be able to retain the link under the screw heads, and have enough material left going between the screws to support the 30A current.

[porwolf]

Originally Posted by Algernon

Uwon,
look back at post #23, the Allied links are exactly right, 11.1mm spacing. Or look at post #33, these can be easily set to 11.1mm. The main thing is to be able to retain the link under the screw heads, and have enough material left going between the screws to support the 30A current.

It may not be neceassary to fabricate a bridge between two fuse holders that has to carry 30 Amps. I would depend on how much current flows through the fuse not directly tied to the red wire coming form the battery. The current rating of the fuse in that secondary fuse link should determine the current that flows through the bridge.

[donporfi]

Agree with porwolf, if you check the bridges in the original fuse block, those are not that thick and also I assume not all the circuits that are tied together work at the same time (I have not checked this, this is just an assumption). There is a bridge that ties 5 contacts and it does not look too thick check post 41.

[Algernon]

Originally Posted by porwolf

It may not be neceassary to fabricate a bridge between two fuse holders that has to carry 30 Amps. I would depend on how much current flows through the fuse not directly tied to the red wire coming form the battery. The current rating of the fuse in that secondary fuse link should determine the current that flows through the bridge.

True enough, but Porsche have the sneaky trick of using the input side of the fuse holder to take off un-fused power as well!
Also remember that a 25A fuse will pass 25A forever, so there might be situations where a marginal link becomes a 'fuseable link' and goes into meltdown, protecting the real fuse!

[DohertyCM]

I ordered 2 of the large blocks from Chief and I have to say that I am not happy with them.
They don't like the large wires, and I just started turning one of the screws and it just broke off with no torque on it what so ever. Cheap....and not durable. I will have to look for a replacement...mean time the car is down

My suggestion, is to find a much more durable fuse block to use.

[GaryR]

Originally Posted by DohertyCM

I ordered 2 of the large blocks from Chief and I have to say that I am not happy with them.
They don't like the large wires, and I just started turning one of the screws and it just broke off with no torque on it what so ever. Cheap....and not durable. I will have to look for a replacement...mean time the car is down

My suggestion, is to find a much more durable fuse block to use.

Did the block break or the screw? It's very strange that a metal screw with no real force on it just breaks, even Chinese metal screws!

[Algernon]

Here is another supplier of ATO blocks. Made in USA! So more expensive, but I think NOT aluminum. Also a bit longer, because of separation every 3 fuses, but worth testing by someone.
SEE Post 106 - these ARE ALUMINUM!
CE Auto Electric Supply - Fuse Holders

[GaryR]

Originally Posted by Algernon

Here is another supplier of ATO blocks. Made in USA! So more expensive, but I think NOT aluminum. Also a bit longer, because of separation every 3 fuses, but worth testing by someone.

CE Auto Electric Supply - Fuse Holders

Though I can't find a picture, the length of the 12 position is less than 2x6 position panels (6.5" for 12, 7.75" for 2x6 position (which is the same length as the 7.75" 15 position panel) so I would assume the blank space is not there on the larger panels.

[donporfi]

Those look like the ones I have but do not have the Made In USA markings. Mine are aluminum.
Mine have the spacer every three fuses.
The quoted post is a picture of mine.

Algernon, yours are aluminum, brass or copper ?

Originally Posted by donporfi

A comparison of the size and height of the original fuseblock and the atc/ato one

[DohertyCM]

I thought it was odd also...I am an aircraft electrician by trade...so I am use to working with small durable components...but the metal in this did not appear to be very well connected and seated in the plastic housing. The screw was probably a fluke...but ground my progress to a halt.

I found another type of ATO fuse holder from another company. It is similar to the type auto atlanta is using. I should get my same in the mail in a couple of days.
So for now I am trying to get the wiring schematics down for this car...seeing how there is not a clear set. I have been putting it together piece by piece. Some of the wire colors dont match up and some equipment is not on my car.. So its a challenge.

I havent giving up because the car is in disarray at the moment....I have already started down that road....cant turn back now.

[Algernon]

Originally Posted by donporfi

Those look like the ones I have but do not have the Made In USA markings. Mine are aluminum.
Mine have the spacer every three fuses.
The quoted post is a picture of mine.

Algernon, yours are aluminum, brass or copper ?

I'm amazed at how many different makes of ATO blocks people have found! Those with aluminum connections are probably the worst, but then someone has a problem with the brass Chief Enterprises version! Always a weak link!
So then I contacted CE and was told theirs are custom made in USA in brass. About twice the price, but possibly the best version, apart from possible size limitation (no good pictures of longer versions)
If someone tries them and finds they are more robust and fit, maybe they are preferred model?

DohertyCM - what was the other type you found? Please keep us posted on your results.

[GaryR]

Algeron (or anyone), given the lengths of the CE connectors, will 2x12 port connecters physically fit (13")?

[DohertyCM]

Fuse Holder | ZC-312-5P (ZC3125P) | Distributed By MCM

This is the link the one I found. the connectors look similar to the ones that Auto Atlanta is selling.

I ordered 1, to see if it is beefy enough to handle the wire bundle from my 930.

[donporfi]

These pictures are for size comparison, I assume the ones I have are similar in size to the ones Algernon installed. Take note mine have the spacer.