Cheap and easy ATO fuse block installation

[donporfi]

Now I found a way of using a jumper where it is not exposed, very similar to the original fuse block


Use a jumper like this one, of the proper thickness , the originals are about 0.025 inch thick about 22gage, to be safe a 20 gage would be better.



Screw this jumper from the underside of the fuseblock


The fuse block will look like this


Use a nut and a washer to lock the wire

[donporfi]

A comparison of the size and height of the original fuseblock and the atc/ato one

[donporfi]

Other way to use a jumper that is not exposed
Use a jumper like this one of the proper thickness 22 or 20 gage.


File this part from the upper arrows to the lower arrows.


Put the jumper and should lok like this

[donporfi]

I fabricated a jumper with a thickness of 0.035 inch and tried it in the fuseblock.
But I found that there is an interference and it will not close.
This is the jumper I fabricated


Installed looks like this


And I think the interference is in this area


I made a notch and it did not work, I will keep trying to solve this.

[Uwon]

Great ideas and great thread guys. I am going to incorporate this in to my RST build.
Evolution of a Carrera RST
Thanks and cheers,

[Algernon]

Originally Posted by targa44

Would those not raise the height of the panel and impact closing your cover?

No! The new fuses are the highest item by far, and the cover still (just) closes. See post #42

[Algernon]

Originally Posted by donporfi

I fabricated a jumper with a thickness of 0.035 inch and tried it in the fuseblock.
But I found that there is an interference and it will not close.
This is the jumper I fabricated

Donporfi,
This looks really neat and 0.2 inches width should handle 25A current load!
Did you try it on the top side? If so, you could dispense with the square nuts?
This would look like the most elegant solution, even having to remove the fillets between adjacent screws.
Porwolf,
those Allied/Molex links are only rated at 15A - pity!

[porwolf]

Originally Posted by Algernon

..........Porwolf, those Allied/Molex links are only rated at 15A - pity!

Well, if they would fit you could always double them up, on top of each other.

[targa44]

Originally Posted by Algernon

Porwolf,
those Allied/Molex links are only rated at 15A - pity!

Grainger has them at 30A

[timmy2]

Link?

Quote de Algernon

Porwolf,

those Allied/Molex links are only rated at 15A - pity!

Grainger has them at 30A

[donporfi]

The problem with stacking them up is that you could end with 4 jumpers in one screw. If you check there is one place where four spaces are linked together, that would mean that in the middle two spaces you would have four jumpers. Same problem where there are three linked together.

[timmy2]

Cut these down to suit for as many positions as needed. There is plenty of room in this installation for jumpers that are visible.





600RJ 06 - MARATHON - TERMINAL BLOCK JUMPER, 6WAY, 9 | Newark

[GaryR]

Originally Posted by timmy2

Cut these down to suit for as many positions as needed. There is plenty of room in this installation for jumpers that are visible.





600RJ 06 - MARATHON - TERMINAL BLOCK JUMPER, 6WAY, 9 | Newark

Those are 15A also.

[donporfi]

timmy2
Those will not fit this type of fuse block.
The pitch spacing of the fuse block is aprox. 12 mm, the Marathon jumpers have a 9.5mm pitch spacing. And between each three blocks the spacing is different about 11mm.
But keep looking, probably with the help of everybody interested we will find a suitable solution.

[GaryR]

Once someone comes up with a good way to do this they can make up a bunch that are plug-n-play and sell them as kits!

[Algernon]

Originally Posted by GaryR

Once someone comes up with a good way to do this they can make up a bunch that are plug-n-play and sell them as kits!

The reason I started this post was not to make money, but help Pelicans make a cheap and easy upgrade to improve reliability of the aging fuse holders, without resorting to expensive kits.
I never expected this level of interest, but if we can collectively find an optimal solution, we all gain!

[GaryR]

Originally Posted by Algernon

The reason I started this post was not to make money, but help Pelicans make a cheap and easy upgrade to improve reliability of the aging fuse holders, without resorting to expensive kits.
I never expected this level of interest, but if we can collectively find an optimal solution, we all gain!

Did not mean it any other way, just see an opportunity for one of our talented guys to do something that benefits us all and make a couple dollars too! I for one would pay double for the blocks if they were just an unhook/rehook the wires proposition! We are only talking about a $75(?) kit that would not only update the electrical system but also add spare fuses for things like headlight relays, etc.

[porwolf]

Then take 2 to double up.

[porwolf]

donporfi, where did you get your "Made in USA" terminal blocks?

[donporfi]

Bought those here
Fuse Blocks - Power