Engine going in after eight year garage queendom. Need help

[Norm Faustino]

Okay guys. I am on the brink of reinstalling the 3.0 in my 78 SC and I am kind of scared I might miss something and kill the battery trying to start the thing. I need to make a checklist of all things to do before filling it with gas and oil and putting the power to the starter. I would like to hear from anyone that has done this after a looong down time and with a bunch of still unknown mystery wires hanging around the engine bay I'm not real sure what to start with as a baseline. for starting her up . I am a very competent chassis and brakes/steering guy but I hate electrical troubleshooting and I suck at it. Any and all help is welcome. Thanks
-Norm

[gsxrken]

Why don't you post up some pics of the wires you can't identify? I'm sure some guys will jump in and quickly identify them for you. And maybe edit your post title to include your location to attract a few local Pelicans for moral support on startup day.
I would be very concerned about your gas tank and CIS fuel components gumming up after 8 years. A complete drain and flush is advisable.
Brake lines, calipers, tires and wheel bearings are other things that don't like to sit that long.

[Norm Faustino]

Yeah, sorry but I should have been a lot clearer about what I'm doing. Let me start over.

I am at the final stages of a reconditioning project of a 1978 911 SC. I have done a complete engine rebuild and gone through all the other systems and replaced or repaired any and all defective, old, rusty, worn or tired components so everything is 100% sound and ready to go into service. I am essentially starting with a new car. Now here's where I get shaky.
I am reasonably confident that I set everything up correctly using Wayne's books such as static cam timing and plug wires set up to proper firing order and so forth. I am a pretty good wrench with everything except electrical and electronics and wiring. I am puzzled by a section of wires in the engine bay that are loose at both ends except for one wire that is connected to the small fuse box on the left side of the engine (see pics) the pictures are not very good but I can tell you that one of them seems to be part of the rear defroster.
I'm also not sure if I am supposed to bleed the CIS system or even how to do it. I cant really find anything covering that. I took the whole fuel distributor apart and cleaned everything but I didn't record or document any settings or anything to give me a baseline so I have to guess at it.
I know I have to build oil pressure for a few seconds but I don't know if I have to back prime the oil pump by running oil directly into the supply line. I have a new engine wiring harness which was built by a fellow pelican using top notch materials and OEM schematics so I know at least that part is solid so I guess it's just hope and pray everything works properly. Who knows, maybe I'll get lucky and it will come to life after a few attempts. I will definitely take your advice about trying to drum up some local help. Thanks for the idea. Wish me luck dudes!

[boyt911sc]

Norm,

This is what I would do in most of my engine start-ups whether I did a complete top/bottom rebuild, R&R an engine, or just simply doing a start-up.
1). Inspect the wiring harness and look for open wire.
2). Inspect and check bolts for torque.
3). Remove tools around, or on top of the engine.
4). Check for oil level. As long as I could see the tip of the oil stick with some oil, I'm confident there is enough oil for start-up. Crank the engine with the ignition coil and FP relay removed to lubricate the internal parts of the engine.
5). Run the FP for several minutes and check for fuel leak. Inspect all around the engine for any sign of wetness on the fuel lines and fittings.
6). Etc.

Turn the ignition switch and listen very carefully for any odd noise or sound coming from the engine. Use a mechanic's stethoscope and listen to the music (engine noise/tapping). The first few minutes of the start-up is usually a nerve wrecking experience followed by euphoria when you had a successful run. Others will chime in and share their experience.

Tony

[timmy2]

Norm,
You need to back out the picture and show where the wires are coming from, and get them in focus so the colors and markings are visible.

[Norm Faustino]

Yeah, sorry Dennis, I should have taken a further away pic I will do it tomorrow. but this particular piece seems to be routed behind the shock towers. I will get a better shot in the AM.

[Norm Faustino]

okay so I finally got around to taking some better pics of the mystery wires and from what I can figure, they belong to a rear heater blower which I am deleting so I probably shouldn't worry too much about them anyway but please, if anyone can confirm this is actually the blower harness please help me out. I would appreciate it. The top and bottom pics are the two ends of the harness section.

[timmy2]

Rear defroster wires?
Heater blower wires are part of the engine harness wires and are yellow/black and a brown wire.
Check to see if there is continuity to the pins for the rear defroster relay.

[K Sykes]

Somebody else check me on this, but I think you have the rubber shock mount in upside down.

[MTemp]

Rear wiper wires (if you have one!)

[Norm Faustino]

Nope I have no rear wiper... I usually wipe my own

[kodioneill]

Originally Posted by K Sykes

Somebody else check me on this, but I think you have the rubber shock mount in upside down.

It is upside down.

[Norm Faustino]

I was under the impression that the rubber cones should be in an hourglass configuration. That is how I installed them. Am I not correct?

[Ferrino]

No, hourglass is wrong - think diamond!

[Norm Faustino]

Well paint me pink and call me Sally... I will correct it. Thanks guys, that is why I love this board and will continue to do my part to keep it alive. Thanks Wayne!

[Norm Faustino]

Just a quick pic update to share some porn with everyone. The re-install is going pretty well but I keep finding little stuff that for some reason is missing after eight years of stop and go resto. Imagine that!

[pete3799]

If you haven't filled it with oil yet i'd drop the sump and turn it so the plug is on the drivers side. Some say it may interfere with the oil pick-up where it is.

[joefrantz]

Norm

The wiring bundle definitely looks like the rear defroster harness. On my car it routes through a grommed opening in the rear shelf, on the drivers side, at the base of the widow. It enters
the rubber window seal directly above the shelf opening, and the individual wires then run through a channel in the rubber seal to the contacts on the window. The seals don't have the necessary openings for the wires. You've got to punch them.
Agree that the shock rubber is inverted.
A+ for the cleanliness. Nice job.
8 years doesn't sound that bad to me.
Mine took 12.

[timmy2]

Looks great Norm!
What does the topside look like?

[Norm Faustino]

Pete, If you look closely, my sump plate is one of the factory non-plug types, but I welded in a plug for easy draining. I actually bought one of those with the side plug but it would not clear the pickup screen on the pump so I can't use it. I guess my pump is an earlier style with no room.

Originally Posted by pete3799

If you haven't filled it with oil yet i'd drop the sump and turn it so the plug is on the drivers side. Some say it may interfere with the oil pick-up where it is.