Partial drop to redo clutch release fork?

[Shaun @ Tru6]

spent most of the day yesterday getting the motor in the 84 and learned today the release fork isn't engaged properly, there is absolutely no play in the shaft. Of course everything else is connected and I even fired it up today.

Looking for ideas on how to get the fork into the bearing correctly with as little disassembly as possible.

[Norm Faustino]

You should remove the lash adjustment arm (the one with the splines) and the omega spring so the release shaft is free to spin. Then separate the transaxle from the engine and re-engage it. As they say in the manuals... installation is the reverse of removal.

[theclaw]

That's a drag Shaun, I'm gonna follow this because I don't know how would you do that without dropping the engine again.

Good Luck,
Jeff

[Flat6pac]

You tend to have a couple problems because youre not engaged into the TOB, youre probably behind it so there is no movement. Because you have the engine and trans together you have probably bent the fingers apart. You have to remove the engine and measure the distance between the fingers for the TOB. 80mm and its defective because 75mm and its like new.
BTDT
Bruce

[Shaun @ Tru6]

Bruce, I'm 99% the top of the fork is in the TOB, it's the bottom that was difficult to see as my flashlight batteries were low. I've decided to drop the whole thing this week.

It was a tough day prepping the motor yesterday, first I found that my friend hadn't centered the disc from last weekend's work and then I became enlightened that an 87 has much longer transmission mounting studs so I had to pull 4 out of another case I had, and oddly enough, they were ever so slightly bent (I think I know how), that is when turning them into the motor, you'd get a slight cone. Getting the transmission mated was difficult as 2 or 3 of the studs were fighting each other. What a day.

At least it runs well. Have started it a few times today just to listen to it.

[yelcab1]

Originally Posted by Shaun 84 Targa

Bruce, I'm 99% the top of the fork is in the TOB, it's the bottom that was difficult to see as my flashlight batteries were low. I've decided to drop the whole thing this week.

It was a tough day prepping the motor yesterday, first I found that my friend hadn't centered the disc from last weekend's work and then I became enlightened that an 87 has much longer transmission mounting studs so I had to pull 4 out of another case I had, and oddly enough, they were ever so slightly bent (I think I know how), that is when turning them into the motor, you'd get a slight cone. Getting the transmission mated was difficult as 2 or 3 of the studs were fighting each other. What a day.

At least it runs well. Have started it a few times today just to listen to it.

These are the lessons we all learn the first time out.

[toreboee]

Shaun,

made the same mistake myself about three months ago on an 82 sc. Not a good feeling at first, but all hope is not lost!
I had the rear bumper removed so this may not apply to you, however I, like Norm mention, had removed the lash arm and drooped the engine just enough to pull it an inch or so apart from the bell-housing and realigned the fork and TOB. The partial drop creates a nice gap between engine and firewall. Using a small mirror and flashlight I could view the fork and TOB through the inspection hole on the top left hand side of the bell-housing. As I gradually mated the engine and trany I made adjustments to the fork alignment and Presto!

I've been driving it without any issues since and the clutch feels fine. Good luck!

[CCM911]

Agree with Toreboee. If you can manage a soft drop, you may get lucky and be able to slide the trans forward just enough to get the fork back on the TO bearing correctly. I would sure as heck try that before going through a complete drop.

If you decide to go the full drop direction, be sure to save the oil in a clean catch-basin so it can be re-used.