shifting issue, should i trust the mechanic?

[rinverso]

i have a 86 911 targa. had for one year now. last week i broke down. i tried hot dogging it against a punk wanting to race, and hard shifted into second. the shifter went limp. i had it towed to my foreign car mechanic. they replaced the bushings on the shift assembly. parts number 24 and 21 on the bentley. also did brakes and rotors all the way around, so you know it wasn't cheap.
i took it out and shifting was very tight, and i couldn't downshift into 2nd until it got to around 5mph. then i noticed it was harder getting into first and sometimes was actually in second as i started out. also when put into reverse it was in a forward gear, at times.
i called the shop and said it needed adjustment. probably just a tweek at the whisper coupler i installed last year.
wellllllll.....they said they tried to adjust, and it needs a new shift rod #26 and a shift lever coupling #22. because there is play at the end of the shift rod. wtf 2, total price $800.oo and two week wait from germany shipping. wtf. i had no issues before the bushings were put in.couldn't the end of the shift rod just be freakin welded, if its sloppy?i am pointing to the point on the shift rod, that they say is sloppy. btw the porsche mechanic that used to work there, is not working their anymore. i have my doubts, what do you think? thanks friends.

[Driver_X]

Is there play there?

I've never taken that bit apart, but I have adjusted the coupler at the rear, and it can be a little tricky.

My 2cents is this: Wiggle that bit and see if it's tight. If it is, then read up here on Pelican and try and adjust the shift coupler yourself. It's a pretty easy job, just requires a little patience.

What kind of condition is the coupler in?

[JFairman]

Where did you take the car?
The issues you described are usually the shift coupler that is at the back end of the long shift rod just off the bottom right area of the page scan. It lives under rubber boot #27.
The rubber bushings in it go bad and can be replaced with harder snug fitting bushings that tighten up shifting and the position it's clamped in place on the shaft is very important or shifting is impossible.

[emac]

Looks like your finger (broke) I think you broke the spot weld when you power shifted, cant be dont with our cars. Im sure others would chime in but I think if you spot weld that back and re adjust the coupler all will be fine.

[timmy2]

Needspace had that portion of his shifting rod fail, so it does happen.
He picked one up used after trying to weld it. Seems you could get a used one for a lot less...
Don't know why the Front coupler needs replacement though. Unless they messed up the threads and hole for the set screw.

The new parts are around $310 total from Pelican... ($83 and $227)
Porsche 911 & Carrera Shift Linkage - Page 7

The coupler whisperers Delron bushings are installed, so I would suspect the diagnosis is correct. I just have a problem with the mechanics price!

[rinverso]

i did install the whisper coupler last year. they showed me the play at the end of the shift rod. can't understand why it can not just be welded. they are saying two week delivery from germany. i'll check with pelican tomorrow for availability. anybody else want to chime in, would be appreciated.

[JFairman]

Looks like it could be brazed on strong easily.
Clean the metal nice with red scotch brite pads or wire brush, position it in place and heat it red hot with acetylene and oxygen torch, then solder it on with white flux coated brass brazing rod.

That will work and hardly cost anything especially if you can do it yourself.

[rinverso]

Originally Posted by JFairman

Where did you take the car?
The issues you described are usually the shift coupler that is at the back end of the long shift rod just off the bottom right area of the page scan. It lives under rubber boot #27.
The rubber bushings in it go bad and can be replaced with harder snug fitting bushings that tighten up shifting and the position it's clamped in place on the shaft is very important or shifting is impossible.

i took it to foreign affairs in wpb fl. i have replaced the shifter coupling and adjusted, previously. thats what i thought the problem was.

[rinverso]

Originally Posted by JFairman

Looks like it could be brazed on strong easily.
Clean the metal nice with red scotch brite pads or wire brush, position it in place and heat it red hot with acetylene and oxygen torch, then solder it on with white flux coated brass brazing rod.

That will work and hardly cost anything especially if you can do it yourself.

j, do you take your pcar anywhere for repair, or do it yourself? looking for a new tech in s. florida

[JFairman]

just wondered...
I live in West Palm. I know the guys over at Stahl Motorsports and Gunnar Porsche but I'm not familiar with the place you went to.

Seems like you could have the cast iron end thing for the shifter that is loose or whatever brazed on to the steel rod in the correct position if you don't want to spend ridiculous $ on a new one.

With brazing you're just soldering with brass rod so it could always be heated up red hot again and removed or repositioned.

[JFairman]

Originally Posted by rinverso

j, do you take your pcar anywhere for repair, or do it yourself? looking for a new tech in s. florida

I do all my own work on the car.

[ClickClickBoom]

Parts Heaven in Hayward Ca. fair and very knowledgeable to deal with. Nothing wrong with used parts if they are in good condition, my car is full of them.....

[timmy2]

Welding has failed as I said earlier. A good used one will work...
Post 27 to the end here:
Shifter breakdown - Not going into 1st and 2nd
Then from post 720 for a few more here:
1976 911S – from garage find to on the road

[rinverso]

Originally Posted by timmy2

Welding has failed as I said earlier. A good used one will work...
Post 27 to the end here:
Shifter breakdown - Not going into 1st and 2nd
Then from post 720 for a few more here:
1976 911S – from garage find to on the road

thanks tim, just read the shifter breakdown thread as you posted this. so welding is not a perm fix. just so i get this straight. there should be no play at the end of the shift rod?

[timmy2]

The rod end is made of a solid piece with a light tube pressed onto it with extreme pressure so that it is light yet solid. If it is moving it most likely means the metal is fatigued or stressed and will fail again.
No, there should not be any movement in the rod.
All movement should be in the bushings and couplers only.

[timmy2]

It appears from the other current thread there has been success welding and reinforcing them.
Roll the dice and repair or replace with new or used...

[Jack Stands]

Couldn't you simply take the rod to a machine shop (or anyplace with a drill press), drill a hole through the rod and tube, and use a roll pin to key them together? There is not that much pressure on the shift rod ( assuming you don't constantly power shift).

[911pcars]

I've heard wive's tales of removing the shift rod through the shifter opening in the tunnel, but typically, the drivetrain comes out to extract the shift rod from the rear of the tunnel. That's where most of your dollars go.

If that intermediate tube has detached itself from the front end of the shift tube, I think that can be brazed or welded in place. That would significantly decrease the cost of the project and restore the shift linkage to factory specs. If your current tech balks at that idea and insists on new parts, consider another shop who may have more empathy for your checking account. For this part, used is perfectly okay.

Sherwood

[theiceman]

it actually comes out through the heater cable/ebrake hole but is a bit of work removing stuff. you are correct however in that is where the money is going.

I replaced one last year for a buddy, exact issue. got a used one with coupler attached from hershey for 15 bucks.

bet you it will get one dirt cheap at a parts reclaimer

[john walker's workshop]

i've welded plenty of them. you plug weld them, which means you drill a couple of holes through the tube just into the inner shaft and wire feed it full. you can do it right in the car. disconnect the rear coupler so you can turn the rod somewhat. 2 hour job at worst. if the tube is badly cracked and splayed open, then it's replacement time.