Putting a 3.2 in an SC questions

[GaryR]

Mainly I need to know what wiring and fuel line changes will need to be done. I will be using the stock Motronic ECU and harness. I know of the notch that will need to be cut in the 915 case for the sensor, any other tips? On the Instant-G site he mentions a modification of the 14 pin plug but searching I can't find out exactly what it will take..

For fuel I would assume our local fuel line building guru can take care of that (once I know what I need). From what I can see I will be eliminating the Accumulator and going straight to the filter, not sure of the return line setup.

Thanks for any help..

[jager911]

It's been about 10 years since I did my conversion but it was relatively easy, 2 notches in tranny bellhousing with jigsaw for reference and speed sensors, customized fuel lines and swapped about 5 pins in the 14 pin connector. IIRC, I cut about a 2-3" diameter hole above the rear linkage cover to route the harness.
Send your email, I think I have PIN info saved in Excel, keep in mind mine's a '74.

[jager911]

OK, found it, I re-mapped the 14 pin connector in the left rear of the chassis, leaving the DME connector alone. The trick was to read the Haynes wiring diagrams and translate the wiring for MY74 vs MY85 3.2L, I don't have power windows or blower fan.
Sending the Excel which has diagram/notes but here is a summary of essentials for track car:
1. 14 pin connector on chassis (after swap, these match the DME pins):
Pin 1 - Yellow - Starter
Pin 3 - Green/Black - Oil temp
Pin 4 - Green/Red - Oil pressure
Pin 5 - Yellow /Green - Reverse lights
Pin 6 Gray/Brown - lights
Pin 11 - Light green - gauges
Pin 14 - Red - battery/alternator
All other pins open (this may vary for you to get power windows/heater fan)

2. Wiring from DME harness to car
1 Red/green stripe (DME relay terminal 87B) to fusebox #3 25A fuse/relay to fuel-pump
2 Yellow (DME relay Terminal 4) to ignition switch starter wire - Yellow
3a Black (DME terminal 86) pigtail to 3b to Fuse 15 (power with ignition on position 1)
3b Black (DME relay Terminal 2 - ignition coil) pigtail to 3a
4a Black to Tach
4b Black/violet to Tach
I think I swapped the last 2 and then tach worked.

[GaryR]

Thanks Jager, i'll have the motor, ECU, and harness the week after Thanksgiving so I will see what I have to play with then. It's out of an 87 IIRC.

Another thing I wondered about when I pulled my SC motor, does the throttle linkage hook to the 3.2 with the same rod/heim joint the 3.0 uses?

[jager911]

NP, for anyone searching later, here are the relative pin positions above looking at the 14pin chassis connector.
2 4 6 8 10 12 14

1 3 5 7 9 11 13

I recall worrying about the throttle linkage and having to bend 1 end slightly to get full throttle but it uses the same ball/socket joint. I kept my original CIS fuel pump, I was told by local Indy, the pressure regulators on the 3.2L took care of any pressure differential. 10 years later, no issues.

[GaryR]

Originally Posted by jager911

NP, for anyone searching later, here are the relative pin positions above looking at the 14pin chassis connector.
2 4 6 8 10 12 14

1 3 5 7 9 11 13

I recall worrying about the throttle linkage and having to bend 1 end slightly to get full throttle but it uses the same ball/socket joint. I kept my original CIS fuel pump, I was told by local Indy, the pressure regulators on the 3.2L took care of any pressure differential. 10 years later, no issues.

Re the fuel pump I was told the same. A costly change is that I have to put on a new flywheel and clutch as this was a G50 motor and it's going on a 915..

[Flat6pac]

Get a 84 to 86 flywheel and use the short bellhousing studs of the 3.0. Use the 3.0 clutch pkg that you have if usable. Use the accelerator linkage of the 915 or compare for correct length.
Bruce

[GaryR]

Originally Posted by Flat6pac

Get a 84 to 86 flywheel and use the short bellhousing studs of the 3.0. Use the 3.0 clutch pkg that you have if usable. Use the accelerator linkage of the 915 or compare for correct length.
Bruce

Thanks Bruce, the clutch is at least 1/2 gone so may as well go new as it's a race car. Good point on the studs, I did notice the 3.2 has some long ones, i'll have to order those when I get the clutch as my 3.0 motor sold complete.

[GaryR]

Into reassembly now (sort of) and I noticed in the diagram below there appears to be something from the oil tank to the temp switch on the back of the throttle body. The SC has nothing on the oil tank (just level indicator wiring), do you just ignore this?

[Flat6pac]

You have 2 hoses coming from the front of the throttle body.
One small and one maybe 10mm running to the right side of the engine.
Plug them both as they go to a pod on the Carrera oil tank and isnt needed for your application.
Bruce

[GaryR]

Originally Posted by Flat6pac

You have 2 hoses coming from the front of the throttle body.
One small and one maybe 10mm running to the right side of the engine.
Plug them both as they go to a pod on the Carrera oil tank and isnt needed for your application.
Bruce

Perfect, thank you Bruce!

[GaryR]

14 pin connector disintegrated when popped apart, is there a direct replacement available? Found this - http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/pel_search_2014.cgi?SUPERCAT_FLAG=Y&make=&please_wait=N&LastVisited_input=&Previous_Section=&forumid=&threadid=&command=DWsearch&description=91161211305-M100&I1.x=11&I1.y=5
, but $51? I'll just pop existing pins into new head, not a big deal just aggravating.... Come to find out I didn't need to touch it for 3.0 -> 3.2 conversion..



I would like to eliminate everything to the left of the coil and just have the new plug hanging free, is there anything there I need to leave intact? I'll put a new spade type fuse panel in place for those hot leads but I don't believe the 3.2 needs anything there...

[timmy2]

Yeah, $51 for the "kit".
They don't sell the separate components either. Believe me, I've searched exhaustively...

[mreid]

Gary, the blue wire you see in the 14 pin connector is the exciter for your alternator and needs to be connected also (you didn't mention it above). I just went through this installing a 92 3.6 in my 1974. I left the chassis of that panel to use the 14 pin connector mount and red relay wired to my fuel pump. I also extended it to mount the dual MSD boxes (I didn't need the other relays, regulator, accumulator, or fuel filter). Dennis was very helpful in helping me think through the wiring. Here's a pic:

[GaryR]

Originally Posted by mreid

Gary, the blue wire you see in the 14 pin connector is the exciter for your alternator and needs to be connected also (you didn't mention it above). I just went through this installing a 92 3.6 in my 1974. I left the chassis of that panel to use the 14 pin connector mount and red relay wired to my fuel pump. I also extended it to mount the dual MSD boxes (I didn't need the other relays, regulator, accumulator, or fuel filter). Dennis was very helpful in helping me think through the wiring. Here's a pic:

Mark - the blue wire is just popped out a bit, I will not change nor eliminate anything in the 14 pin. I just want to rid myself of all the other crap in there as it isn't use (AFAIK) by my car or the new engine. Sounds like I better put the order in thanks.,

[timmy2]

Gary,
Just a heads up on directly plugging the 3.2 harness into the '78 14 pin connector on the body.
As per the '78 and '87 diagrams:

You will now have an un-fused 12v from the alternator directly feeding pin 2, that apparently runs to a single plug (T1g) somewhere below the shift lever housing.
You will also be sending a signal from a sender on pin 8 that goes to (T1e) on the luggage compartment floor.

I would remove the second 12v feed on pin2 in the 14 pin engine connector. (red wire opposite yellow wire at the far end of the connector) and not worry about the sender signal.(or remove it as well)
Or, just delete pin 2 and 8 on the male 14 pin connector and tape off the 2 wires seeing as you will be in there anyways..

Everything else appears to match up for plug and play.....

[mreid]

I also left a 12v feed to the single remaining fuse as a place to connect my timing light. Just a thought.

[GaryR]

Originally Posted by jager911

2. Wiring from DME harness to car
1 Red/green stripe (DME relay terminal 87B) to fusebox #3 25A fuse/relay to fuel-pump
2 Yellow (DME relay Terminal 4) to ignition switch starter wire - Yellow
3a Black (DME terminal 86) pigtail to 3b to Fuse 15 (power with ignition on position 1)
3b Black (DME relay Terminal 2 - ignition coil) pigtail to 3a
4a Black to Tach
4b Black/violet to Tach
I think I swapped the last 2 and then tach worked.

Ok, here is the actual 3.2 harness and the 8 wires to account for, still a little confused on what goes where but I will revert to the wiring diagram if I have to!



Solid Red - heavy gauge

Green w/ yellow stripe

3 wire group #1-
Red w/green stripe
Solid Black
Solid black - light gauge

3 wire group #2-
Black w/purple stripe
Solid Black
Solid Yellow