Heater Issues, Lid closing issues and a "What is this"

[A&F]

I have a 1985 3.2 911.

It has manual heat controls (two levers and a three position heater dial).

It also has an upgraded A/C compressor.

Problem I:
I recently purchased the car. The heat does not work, but the shop did test the rear-blower (one above the engine) it works when 12v are directly applied.

If I sit in the car, put the ignition to the "on" position, pull the red-levers up and set the switch to 1-3 I hear a "buzz" in the rear, but the motor does not appear to be blowing. Nothing is coming into the front cabin.

I replaced all the fuses in the engine compartment.

The levers feel "taught", but they do seem to catch a bit at certain points.

After reading a lot, my understanding is the problem could be the dial switch in between the seats or the foot well-blowers? My understanding is these are all wired in a series and if anyone one goes out, nothing works, hence why I get no air movement in the cabin?


Problem II.

The truck lid is difficult to close. Right now it's up in my garage and I can't get it to lock down. I'm thinking it's interference with the A/C line. The line first catches on the oil-check and then hits the Air-Box. It also maybe pinching on the hinge.

Is this normal, or should it be rerouted somehow? Could by problem be an adjustment with the actual engine-lid latch?







Problem III:

While hunting down the source of the God-Awful door buzzer, I came across this black electric box. It's not buttoned down to anything, just sitting in there and kinda flippy-floppy. The wires obviously go somewhere. Is this aftermarket? Is it factory? What is it?

[r-mm]

Regarding the heat - did you get under the car and check that the cables have not rusted off at the connection to the flapper boxes? This is a very rust prone area. The ducting from the heat exchanger to flapper box may also have come loose. My car was very well cared for but still these areas were crumbling and rotting. Hose clamps were dust, cables snapped off, flap box sticky.

Also, the engine fan itself moves air in the heat system so try with the engine running not just with they key "on". Should be cake to tell if the r blower motor is working or not - pull the black plastic elbow off and feel. You can also just pull off that little snap connector that helps route the cruise control cable and put your finger up to it - a good deal of air will blow out of that if the fan is running. My p/s blower is inop and the rear still blows, air still moves. I believe but am not positive that the footwell blowers will not blow if the REAR is not blowing, can't recall the reasoning something about making negative pressure and potential exhaust gas ingress.

Don't you love having manual heat? I do. (no sarcasm). Although the heating is somewhat weird on these cars it is dead simple when you get it.

[redridge]

check if the heater cables are attached to the flapper boxes...

[Arne2]

A/C hose is badly routed. I'm going to guess that the hoses were replaced in the A/C upgrade, and are probably Rennaire hoses, which are longer than stock. This can cause people to have to get a bit creative when routing the hoses. That hose needs to go smoothly to the back of the engine bay, not down near the filter.

I tried to get a picture of mine, but it's too dark to use my phone, and my son borrowed my DSLR.

[kuehl]

A&F,
on your Problem II.
I don't see an "upgraded ac compressor", the compressor looks like a stock unit.
On your compressor to deck lid condenser hose; typically the hose fitting at the compressor outlet is a 45 degree. You have a 90 degree. The routing for a 'stock' hose should be towards the forward side of the engine, under the air box horn (your air box is missing the horn), along side the RH fuel rail, to the forward section of the engine and then a 180 degree loop back and up to the RH engine lid. You will need turn your RH engine lid AC hose clamp around 180 degrees so it moves the hose away from the inner lip of the engine bay opening otherwise you will get a cut in the hose. Example below:

PM if you need more help

[wwest]

'88 Carrera.

Recently when the cabin heater blower in the engine compartment stopped working it turned out to be a defective/failed relay inside the heat control module.

At the "foot" of the two levers to allow heating you will find a microswitch that is supposed to enable the powering of the cabin heater blower. I would check that circuit, switch, first.

Also, the rear cabin heater blower must be drawing the rated level of current flow in order for the two footwell blowers to be powered. I have had occasion when a low battery would result in this effect.