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Without a doubt, you have a good deal of work ahead of you, but you can do it.

We call that "Pussy Rust".. I think you know where i'm coming from so stop the crying and dive in. Are you not up to the challenge? I suggest you dont re-up and ask a civie to do the hard work for you.. You want help? It's here, i'll fly in if I have to.. but stop whining and lets get this done..

Lol! Thanks for the offer, I may take you up on it!!

Just my way of telling you you have a friend here... in case you lost your way..

Thanks Gary! ...dave

My pleasure..
:D

Not nearly as bad as I was expecting. The sooner you start the sooner you'll finish.

I think those pictures show good news and bad news:

THE GOOD NEWS:
That rust is nothing. The car is a pretty solid starting point

THE BAD NEWS
There is more to tackle than you might realize

MORE GOOD NEWS
The areas that you don't realize that need work is easy relatively easy work

From the pictures here is my guesses as to what you are facing:

1) I'll bet the rear window area is solid, and if you take out the glass you won't see much rust if any. I wouldn't be so confident if your parcel tray was worse. The parcel tray goes before the window area if there is a leak.

2) Drivers sides are always worse than passenger sides in the salt belt. The theory is that roads have the most accumulation of salt along the centre line as cars push slush there from both lanes.

3) I'd be surprised if you didn't need to replace the the ends of your inner rockers and your door latch post. All the crud flings up into that area ahead of the wheel and from your 1/4 window down to your jack spur gets the worst of it. By the time rust shows through the paint, there isn't much thickness left behind it that isn't punky.

If you are handy and have the time, I wouldn't be afraid of what I see.

WARNING
I'd work on a section at a time first, tackling the worst areas. I've seen too many projects completely disassembled and sold of in boxes years later.

If it were me I'd leave the windows in until much later. That way it can still be exposed to the weather if it ever had to be. I'd also leave it as a running car for the same reason, until the rockers and door posts/floor were done, unless you prefer to tackle the top side (A pillars) first.

Once it is all solid again, if you wanted to do a full strip, then the remaining jobs are much more manageable. If on the other hand this will be a rotisserie restoration, then ignore my plan.

Glad to see that it is much better than the first pictures indicated!
Good luck. The people here were a great help to me during my build.

"Pussy Rust"
That's hilarious :)

Trying to get him fired up!! :D

Mine is sitting on it's side on a rotisserie to fix most all the same problem areas you have: both rockers and the pedal cluster area. That little rust-through hole below the driver's side rear window? I had the exact same hole there...very weird. It's like the rust fairy walked around and blessed little spots randomly. Like others have said, it's all fixable. The biggest concern would be around the rear torsion tube and the front suspension pick-up points. Even those are doable but then you get into tub geometry issues.

Do it!

Seriously, this is a lot better than we all thought. Get it titled, running, and tagged it it were mine. And then take on weekly projects. Hate to see you pull this all apart with as busy you life is and it is your second project. No how those usually end up it its not tagged and running.

Removed the front and rear glass because I really needed to know the extent of the rust in this car. I was pretty worried what might be lurking under the rubber seals. The rear window was first to come out. Took me a minute to figure out that the defroster wiring intertwined within the rubber seal but once I did, no problem. Rust was about as expected, with one unexpected hole. Front obviously next to come out. I was pleasantly surprised that it was not as bad as I thought it might be - I actually felt like I won the lottery for a minute! So far I feel like everything is doable by myself. Went to remove the gas tank - a little gas still in it, not sure how much. Figured out the vent and return lines run under and behind which prevents removing it without dealing with those. Jacked up the front end about 2.5 feet in order to get under to figure out what to do about the lines. After about 15 minutes and smelling fumes which I though were coming from the tank I realized that fuel was leaking out the back of the car. Lowered everything back down. Cleaned up the mess and called it a night...

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Almost forgot - look what I found in the shed... :)

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Both feet in now!

Looks like we have a full blown project to follow!

(I just found a rebuilt 2.4 with mfi in my shed, so I can relate to your excellent find :-)

It might not be the most fun-to-restore car regarding the basis, but if you strive on and acomplish, you will be absolutely shure of what has ben done, how its been done and very rewarded.

I have the opinion that a "frame off" restoration better a down to the metal build up.
So I guess you'll do that too.
This leaves you with the welding that looks like a bit out of control right now.
But it can be done; and you can work on the few body weeknesses to at that stage.

This would motivate me. I hope you too.

Right, that's one benefit of doing the work yourself. These cars are 40+ years old now so unless you've got a car that's been extremely well cared for its entire life then there will probably be some issues to deal with at least somewhere. I'm contemplating starting on the top side. There's someone on here that replaced his roof that I need to touch base with for some insight on the process. My plan is to use my donor roof to reskin my bad one and do away with the sunroof at the same time. I plan to leave the existing frame intact. Link: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/paint-bodywork-discussion-forum/787372-911-roof-replacement.html#post7818750

You need to do more than reskin the roof. The "frame" needs to come out, it you are talking about the sunroof supporting structure. Plus, your A pillars are junk, your B pillars need help and the lockposts need to be replaced, too. You don't want to replace the upper surface and not address all of the problems underneath it.

I'd strip the tub completely first. Get all of the paint and bondo off so you can properly judge what you have. It's worse than it looks at present, that I can promise you. Then, learn in what order Porsche built the tub and consider starting with the major work first.

Got a rotisserie?

JR