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Newbie Question - Pedal Cluster

I was fiddling underneath the dash and happen to notice the pedal cluster looking misaligned. The clutch is higher and behind the plane of the brake. I have seen pics where they nice and straight and was wondering if mine needed to be fixed. I don't have any problems with either the clutch or brakes operations although I sometimes wonder if the distance (depth) between the gas pedal and brakes makes it more difficult to do heel-to-toe driving. Are there standard specs on distance (depth) between the 3 pedals? Thanks in advance!

This is a current pic of mine (sorry for the poor image)



These are pics I have seen of others....


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84 911 Targa, 76 911 Targa, 2014 Cayman S, 77 280z
Old 02-13-2014, 07:23 AM
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You are going to have to pull the carpet out. Then, remove the wooden floor board. Below that is the pedal cluster.

The clutch pedal has a helper spring to pull it into it's stop which would, in turn, align it with the brake pedal. I'd investigate that spring.

The area where the cluster sits catches A LOT of debris and moisture and is subject to much corrosion and wear. My guess is that yours needs a little TLC.

Search is your friend on this site. For example...
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Old 02-13-2014, 09:33 AM
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Thanks. I guess I know what I will be doing this weekend. Just wondering if the state of the pedal alignment would translate to poor clutch or brake performance since I don't seem to have a problem.
Old 02-13-2014, 11:13 AM
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Be careful working down there. There are very strong springs. Also, if your pedals are like mine than in order to remove the wooden floorboard you will need to pull the gas pedal until its little ball-and-socket joint at the top of the pedal pops out.
It took me a long time to figure this out.
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Old 02-13-2014, 11:21 AM
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If you are thinking about working on the little beast, do a little home work and get some parts handy, rather than shut your baby down. It is a very good idea however to give it some TLC.

I worked on mine one year, and later I committed to servicing the pedal cluster a bit better than I did the first time.

If you have a tummy, get ready for some grunting.

As said above, remove the carpets and wooden floor board, disconnect the linkages, and take out the whole article for service. Remove and replace all of the bushings. Replace the plastics bushings with bronze if yours is earlier than a G50, if it is a G50, all you can get is stock plastic. Inspect the rods/metal parts to make sure they are smooth and un-worn. She will love you for it.

The work isn't really that hard - its just in an inconvenient place.
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Old 02-13-2014, 11:57 AM
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I got these parts, but I forget if this is the all inclusive list.
I also had existing issues with the master cylinder, so your mileage may vary:

Roll Pin, 911 (1987-89) 107835 Pelican N 023 351 1
Pedal Cluster Outer Bushing, 2 req, 911 (1987-89) 107835 Pelican 964 423 611 00 M100
Inner Brake Pedal Bushing, 2 req, 911 (1987-89) 107835 Pelican 999 924 014 4A M100
Accelerator Lever Bushing, Bronze, 911/911 Turbo (1974-89) 107835 Pelican 901 423 253 00 M105
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Old 02-13-2014, 12:04 PM
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Sometimes the clutch pedal won't return all the way if the clearance is not correct at the adjustment point under the car. Do a search on how to adjust it and be sure to do what's called a basic adjustment, which also sets the cable preload and checks the travel.

JR
Old 02-13-2014, 12:21 PM
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If you plan to do any heal-toe braking I would leave the pedals as they are in the first picture. If you line up the brake pedal with the clutch you most likely will not be able to H-T effectively. I did the adjustment and found the brake was too low to easily H-T. I had to move it back. For normal street driving it might be ok, but if you are going to track the car I'd leave it as is. This is a case of form definitely not following function.
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Old 02-13-2014, 12:58 PM
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Steely, I was just contemplating getting some parts from our host while I was planning on opening up the floor board, so thanks for the parts list.

Javadog, I am hoping that it is as simple as the clutch spring, but if it requires adjusting the cable and even the helper spring then I might hold off as I am not having any clutch issues.

Aj88cab, thanks and you have a point there!
Old 02-13-2014, 01:21 PM
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Adjusting the clearance on the clutch cable is routine, like an oil change. Takes all of a minute, unless you do the basic adjustment, then it takes 5 minutes, and a helper.

JR
Old 02-13-2014, 01:45 PM
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Thanks JR! I will see if there are illustrations on how to do it since it is my first time!

Old 02-13-2014, 03:23 PM
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