Replace CV joints, or new drive axles?

[Arne2]

Tracking down a noise from the rear, and found play in the left out CV joint. So time to replace it, obviously. And since I assume they are all the same age, I will want to do all 4.

So I looked at the kit the our host offers for 75-84 (or so), looks quite complete. Then I noticed that it's not that much more to buy a pair of new drive axles, complete.

The drive axle option is attractive, as while I have the skills and tools to do the CV replacement, I despise the mess and fussiness of CV replacement.

So the question today is -- what am I missing here? Are there any drawbacks to the new replacement drive axles?

[faverymi]

Over the years I've gotten several rebuilt by a local shop for short cash.

Most cars left. On the 911 still rolling.

I'm sure you can find a shop in OR

[RWebb]

only possible drawback would be low parts quality (from China, Mexico, etc.) - the brand may or may not get you top quality

buying from Sunset on their customer appreciation day 'would' have gotten the lowest prices with high quality assurance but I expect you don't want to wait until next Feb.

Pelican should have a good source

the dust boots on some German brands have been problematic

I wish I knew a reliable rebuilder locally...

[47silver]

May as well replace the wheel bearings too

[Arne2]

Originally Posted by RWebb

only possible drawback would be low parts quality (from China, Mexico, etc.) - the brand may or may not get you top quality

The CV joints Pelican sells are GKN Loebro (German, it is said), and the axles I am considering are the same brand, also German.

Originally Posted by RWebb

buying from Sunset on their customer appreciation day 'would' have gotten the lowest prices with high quality assurance but I expect you don't want to wait until next Feb.

Definitely not, as I drive the car as a semi-regular driver. That's another advantage to replacement axles, the job is cleaner and quick.

Originally Posted by RWebb

the dust boots on some German brands have been problematic

I'll take a look at the boots on whatever I end up getting. Thanks for the heads-up on that.

Originally Posted by 47silver

May as well replace the wheel bearings too

On my '84, the stub axle nut does not have to be removed for CV replacement. If I had to do that, I would replace the wheel bearings too. But since I don't have to disturb them, I won't.

[RWebb]

the R&R is the real hassle - worse than rebuilding IMHO

one other tidbit: sometimes there is not enough grease in the purchased ones; OTOH if you put too much grease in there, you'll have fun cleaning it off of everything (don't ask me how I know...)

good luck with it!

[Discseven]

I'll second the comment on poorly manufactured boots (and add some CV notes and images.)

Not exactly sure about the age on the boot we're looking at here but do believe they split open way too early. Both the outside boots looked like this.



Because I never expected them to be split open as early as they did, I never looked at them... Not smart. Outside CVs wore out from contamination. Notice too that the retainers that secure the boot to the shaft are long gone and there are neither C washers nor any other washers.

Replaced all 4 CVs using the old shafts (installing the shafts in same position and same rotation.) Zip ties were used to secure the small boot-end to shaft rather than the metal retainers.

A hydrolic press makes simple work of separating and recombining CVs and shafts. CV and shaft can be parted (and reassembled) with a good beating but care is needed so as not to damage the splines on the shaft (as I have brilliantly done in the past.) Correcting them with a hand file can be done but it's tedious work.

The circlips at each end of a shaft that retain the CVs on the shafts can be hidden below grease.

When installing new CVs on the shafts, the grooved end of the CV goes towards the end of the shafts. Extra grease goes in the boots --- the conical shape of the boots under rotation drives the grease into the CV. (Extra grease in the flanges does nothing.) As a matter of personal preference, I install my CVs with the bolt holes aligned to between the holes of the opposite end. I know some like the bolts aligned end-to-end.



The supplied 8 x 50 mm bolts with washers installed did not consume all the threads on the flanges so I went with longer bolts. Below, the short bolt came with the CVs. The longer, 8 x 55 mm class 12.9 (hardened) bolt is the size I applied.



I'll catch s*** for this I know(!) but I'll admit to not going for the C washers. (A long story that I won't go into.)

Here's the end protrusion of the 8 x 55 mm bolts from the flange with lock washers installed and without C washers installed.



Lock washers can blow out when torque'ing (31 ft lbs in this case on an '85 engine/trans --- please check for spec as I'm not looking at my book when writing this.) Point is, having extra lock washers on hand is a great idea.

Because the boots falied in what I would consider premature mode, I'm now coding ALL new parts so when a part is removed, it's possible to know immediately the part's source, installer, and date of install. This precludes having to dig through the paper file. Below is the code. A metal etcher cost $12 from the local hardware.



Have fun Arne!

[Arne2]

Went with the pre-assembled axle shafts. Clean, simple and quick. About 2 hours total for both sides.

Once off the car, all four old joints (which I believe are original due to lack of mention of them in my binder of service history) have axial movement. All is quiet and good now.