CIS Fast Hesitation on Accelertion

[RSBob]

Got an 82 with a new WUR because the car would stall every time the car was at a light. The WUR was supposedly dialed in but now there is a new problem - when ever I accelerate, regardless of gear or speed, I get a very rapid hesitation. When cruising at constant speed the car is fine until I give it any gas. And the car did not have his issue with the old dying WUR, but then the air fuel mixture was adjusted as well. Any simple ideas for a non-technical with no electronic equipment for getting readings? Yeah I know it's a crap-shoot but what the hey.

[boyt911sc]

Rick,

Is you car/engine a US or RoW model? What's the ID number of the WUR you have now. Is this exactly the same as the old WUR (ID #)? Without knowing your fuel pressures, there would be a lot of guessing involve. What were the setting for the WUR (cold and warm control pressures). Do you still have the old WUR? There are too many unknown (variables) as far as the new WUR is concern and not good way to start troubleshooting.

Do you have access to a CIS fuel pressure gauge kit? Have you checked and confirmed the absence of unmetered air in the system? Keep us posted.

Tony

[javadog]

I'd start with the acceleration enrichment system and make sure that's all working as it should. Might be hard to do if you have no test experience, no test gear and no documentation...

The question about the WUR is relevant, too.

JR

[T77911S]

get the WUR info and post it. make sure the one you bought is the correct one for the car.
a lot of WUR's can be adjusted to work with other CIS systems.

[Targalid]

Please explain what you mean by "a very rapid hesitation".

[timmy2]

Please explain what you mean by "a very rapid hesitation".

Sounds like it is bogging down from excessive fuel being dumped when he pushes the go pedal.
Perhaps running too rich?
Won't know until he tests the fuel pressures and gets CO readings...

[RSBob]

The WUR is the exact replacement model for a US spec car. I bet pulling the plugs would tell me in a heartbeat if it's running too rich. I would imagine that adjusting the idle speed would really not solve anything

[javadog]

Originally Posted by RSBob

The WUR is the exact replacement model for a US spec car.

A US spec 1982 model? Wanna get the WUR number? Might take all of a minute...

JR

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by RSBob

The WUR is the exact replacement model for a US spec car. I bet pulling the plugs would tell me in a heartbeat if it's running too rich. I would imagine that adjusting the idle speed would really not solve anything

Rick,

Are you seeking assistance or are you trying to telling us what to do? What is the exact replacement for a US spec car (?). The fact that you replaced the WUR tells us something about the problem with the control fuel pressures. The replacement WUR like you have now means nothing unless you have checked or measured the control fuel pressures. I'm not saying you have a bad WUR. What I'm trying to tell you is that you have no idea if the WUR is correctly calibrated or not for CCP & WCP.

These guys trying to help you are troubleshooters not magicians!!!!!! Good luck.

Tony

[RSBob]

Tony - as far as magicians and telling people what to do - my first post said, "Yeah I know it's a crap-shoot.. From my limited expertise I won't even pretend to tell people what to do - and dog knows where you got that from. As far as your incredulousness, the best I can advise is if this thread upsets you, don't visit it again.

To the helpful others, the part # 91160610508. The car's idle does fluctuate at start up but settles down after a minute to a constant 1200. When really warmed up its at 900.

Maybe I will just hang on until my SSIs arrive since we will have to go through the whole process again. Thanks to all who were helpful.

[Ronnie's.930]

Speaking of "crap shoots", and based on your above post, I imagine that your WUR's analdilator is not properly hooked-up. Plug that badboy in proper like and you should be good to go!

[T77911S]

rsbob,
you posted this in your first post
"Any simple ideas for a non-technical with no electronic equipment for getting readings?"
you want advise and when you were asked to post the ID or part number for your WUR you posted this
"The WUR is the exact replacement model for a US spec car."
thats NOT what the people helping you asked for. and remember, you want us to help you with no electronic equipment for getting readings.

i see you have been around for a while but most of us have been around a LOT longer and we learn the questions to ask for what little info we usually get. we also learn to ask question based on what stick out like this.
"a new WUR because the car would stall every time the car was at a light. The WUR was supposedly dialed in but now there is a new problem "
what everyone here is thinking is that maybe the worng WUR was on there and the new one was purchased based on the old one. so we have to make sure you have the correct one before we go any further. most WUR's are not that different, but there are some that work on vacuum. if you put on e of those on your car because that is what was on there, and it was not "tweaked" it will NOT work.

[T77911S]

now back to your problem.

is the WUR you put on BRAND new or used?

is the O2 sensor connected?

do you have power to the WUR? a test light can be used to check, very cheap.

jsut curious, was the OLD WUR the same part number?

is fuse 15 good?

did you do anything with the timing or vacuum hoses?

[javadog]

Can you check for the Bosch number? I don't have access to my part number cross reference info at the moment. It should be 0438 140 090.

Was this a new, used or rebuilt WUR? Any modifications to your engine? Still running an O2 sensor?

JR

[RSBob]

Originally Posted by T77911S

rsbob,
you posted this in your first post
"Any simple ideas for a non-technical with no electronic equipment for getting readings?"
you want advise and when you were asked to post the ID or part number for your WUR you posted this
"The WUR is the exact replacement model for a US spec car."
thats NOT what the people helping you asked for. and remember, you want us to help you with no electronic equipment for getting readings.

i see you have been around for a while but most of us have been around a LOT longer and we learn the questions to ask for what little info we usually get. we also learn to ask question based on what stick out like this.
"a new WUR because the car would stall every time the car was at a light. The WUR was supposedly dialed in but now there is a new problem "
what everyone here is thinking is that maybe the worng WUR was on there and the new one was purchased based on the old one. so we have to make sure you have the correct one before we go any further. most WUR's are not that different, but there are some that work on vacuum. if you put on e of those on your car because that is what was on there, and it was not "tweaked" it will NOT work.

First off, I appreciate your help.

I am sorry if I was not completely clear up front. The original WUR is the one that came on the car. I drove the car about 2000 miles with the original with only one issue, a fast idle (1200 RPM when warm). Then all of a sudden it started dying every time I came to a stop. So the original was probably a little funky with the fast idle but then it went tits up.

When the replacement was installed and supposedly dialed in but had the fast hesitation on acceleration. I was hoping the solution would be something an ass-monkey like me could manage with out a CO detector, and special equipment - but I knew it would be a 100 to one shot.

Your questions:
is the WUR you put on BRAND new or used? The WUR is a reman from Vortex. Couldn't find a new on no way no how.

is the O2 sensor connected? The O2 sensor was originally connected and still is. Maybe I should try it disconnected and see how she goes.

do you have power to the WUR? a test light can be used to check, very cheap. I used my el cheapo test light and we have power.

jsut curious, was the OLD WUR the same part number? Don't have the original part - it was sent back as a core.

is fuse 15 good? Just replaced all the fuses 3 days ago with new.

did you do anything with the timing or vacuum hoses? The mechanic no doubt did something with the timing and checked for vacuum leaks. There is one hose on the WUR that apparently is a breather hose and goes no where. If you know otherwise, it might be the missing link.

Since SSIs are coming and the whole thing will need to be dialed in all over again, perhaps I can just wait until that exercise and make sure it is done correctly this time.

[timmy2]

Bob, the part number you gave for the WUR 91160610508 is not the number we need to determine if you have the correct WUR.
We need the last 3 digits that are stamped on the body near the top vent /vacuum hose connection.
A search of that part number reveals a WUR from '78-'83. There were multiple style WURs for those years, each with different parameters.


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[T77911S]

thats the correct WUR. check the CIS primer site, he does list both numbers. most do use the number youare talking about but this one works too.

[timmy2]

Yeah, I didn't check Jim's site, just searched and multiple vendors showed multiple years for that part number from '78-'83.



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[sdrtutyying]

Is you car/engine a US or RoW model?