Unique instrumentation on 2.8 liter build

[Draden]

Originally Posted by TCracingCA

I think I saw an X-15 supersonic test jet with Porsche gauges!

You weren't suppose to be able to see into the cockpit of the x15 in dc. Yeah those gauges, not from my car. Nobody saw me do it. Can't prove a thing.....

[Draden]

Originally Posted by pors1968

Very impressive . Do you have any 67 wiring harness left in the car

Yes, I still retained some of the factory rats nest and added a few items like aircraft cbs and terminal strips and relays to the clutter

Maybe one day I'll rip it all and make it clean, factory did a terrible job of routing. Tangled like spaghetti on every car

[Draden]

Elsewhere else, I have nice routing, for example the front oil cooler wiring and you can see the thermocouple wire with disconnect that goes thru a grommet to the p-120 temp sensor in the wide mouth cooler. Please don't ask me to disassemble to get a picture of the top of the cooler, ha ha.



Also the bat cutoff complete with generator field excitation field wire cutoff so disconnecting the battery kills the alternator if engine running

this is so it doesn't stay running and damage it.



The next pic is of my home made spoiler control panel I fabricated out of aluminum and wired up and mounted on the aft side of my hargett shifter

It has deployed and stowed limit lamps, a circuit breaker (pulled) when the decklid is not installed. And a toggle switch to operate the spoiler.



I have a disconnect in the engine bay for when I swap in or out the 964 decklid. 2 wires for the motor operation ( reversed polarity by the switch for stow, normal for deploy). 2 more wires from each limit switch that return to the relays that are mounted on the bottom of the control panel. Each deploy or stow limit relay removes the direction command when the limit is reached and then the same respective relay also lights the respective lamp.


Note that you can just see the black round knob to my hand throttle and actually I can easily reach my fingers down the right side and under the shift rod linkage and adjust it with no problem

[snbush67]

Originally Posted by RoninLB

I have looked on ebay and found several types, I really like the way your gauges look.

It seems that most of the cost comes from the probes and leads. So what do you think is the cheapest off-the shelf way to monitor 6 EGT probes at the same time?

I believe that the logger gauge Ron used was 6 inches deep. It would be nice to have single gauge that just does 6 EGT and 2 AFR.

I really like everything that you have done, thanks for sharing!

[Draden]

And I know I will receive many more PM's about my home made 935 type cross brace who's front mounts are stronger than anything out there and is adjustable for camber caster changes. The mounts are actually motor mounts I found on the net and tried them

See pictures in thread above for behind battery and other side near oil cooler wiring.

They are motor mounts for I think mounting a Toyota engine in a nissan whatever, they fit perfect and ii mean perfect.

Let me explain. The mounts are lower down and the bolts go right thru the wall and through the heavy duty factory bumper box frame so they are seriously rigid.

Your front "A" frame ( torsion bar mount) is right down there close so bracing from the shock tower down to these points is rigid and really braces the pan at the pressure point where the "A" frame mounts instead of the commercial bars that mount against the fender line with fender attach bolts.

Also note, my front pan is not stock, I have a wide H shape box frame welded into it at precisely the exact same x y and z axis points for the a frames to mount to pan. I can jack it and photo graph if requested.

The slots are cool because I didn't want the cross bars welded together because I use them to help dial the camber and caster with the hiem end adjusters. Caster adjustments change the cross angle of the bars, ever so slightly, but enough that a welded cross would not allow this. So the slots allow one bar over the other. I used right hand and left hand thread when I built the bars so I can dial the length while attached then lock them down. They cross at almost exactly 90 to each other and I can unbolt one, swing it up and put the full size spare in and bolt it back down, with no clearance issues.

Whichever camber plate I want to adjust, I remove the bolt for the top bar and diagonal bar for that plate, then loosen the 3 plate screws, temp install the bar bolts and dial the bars to achieve the caster and camber I want, then lock the aft outboard screw which is accessible with the bars hooked, then one bar one for each of the two remaining screws under each bar. When the plate is re locked, the bars should still line up and put all hardware back and move to the other side.

Works for me and man is it solid, no flex because the diagonals are actually diagonal down to the front.

Use solid rod ends, not swivel, that'll defeat the purpose of any brace. And I use little steel wedge washers on each side that can rotate to get any angle I need for the rod end to mount connection and then lock it down solid.

Since the cars are mostly 60 rear / 40 front, the mounts add polar weight to the nose which helps and it's only like maybe 2.5 lbs each mount anyway.

I'm sure that will start a debate, but hey with full gas, no spare and all the accessories hung on the car including creature comforts of carpet and matts and door panels, headliner etc. I weigh in at 2250 so my 310 hp still gives me better power to weight than a real R so I'm keeping my comforts. If someone wants to beat me with their R clone, that's all fiberglass look and lightened and a worthy engine, then I can just start removing some weight. But right now I out accelerate, out brake and out handle a real R and that's what the R was about. Being able to compete in a racing power to weight class. If you can do it without fiberglass. Why not. Don't miss the point, the R was for Racing.

If anyone wants to see the cross bar or make one, I can share pics( my profile shows older pictures and new) to each their own. I love the diversity and the debate and individual innovations. No single one is the end all be all, mine is just another version.

Thanks for looking

[Draden]

I located a source for the mounts, I actually bought mine straight from excessive, but for some reason I can't find the exact ones on their website anymore. But this picture here is the exact ones that are slotted and holes in the correct spot etc... I bought mine several yrs back.

Please note the early cars do not have the batter boxes so I never compared it to a later year. On my 1967 there are factory ground stubs on each side and one of the holes in each mount is centered over the ground stude, the other 3 drilled thru the wall and the bumper box frame.

You could t ask for a better fit and a better angle plus locating them using those ground stud as reference thru one of the 4 holes was perfect

[Draden]

Originally Posted by snbush67

I have looked on ebay and found several types, I really like the way your gauges look.

It seems that most of the cost comes from the probes and leads. So what do you think is the cheapest off-the shelf way to monitor 6 EGT probes at the same time?

I believe that the logger gauge Ron used was 6 inches deep. It would be nice to have single gauge that just does 6 EGT and 2 AFR.

I really like everything that you have done, thanks for sharing!

I like the looks of this and the price with 1.5 diameter clamp probes included.



I would have to check the manual for guage depth and make sure these are real cr / al k type probes and no ground reference type probes. But this does catch my eye so far for egt only and just 6 channel. You'd have to get good quality k type wire and buy the k type connectors for disconnects at the engine like I did and get a protective sheath for where you clamp the harness along the wheel well edge near each rear tire.

Id really probably go for this is I didn't have mine with cht and with the two extra sensors for oil at tranny and engine cooler

Again, I'd have to find the manual and check the details on size, recommended wiring, etc but so far it looks great. I'd definitely try to find some review online and see if anyone has one fitted in an aircraft and their opinion of the installation and the operation of it.

Mine is more vintage looking and really a high quality unit.

If this has good filtering and resolution than I'd be sold

There is probably an install manual published somewhere online.

[snbush67]

Great thanks, that's more within my range.

I was looking at this ELECTRONICS INTERNATIONAL UBG-16 ULTIMATE BAR GRAPH ENGINE ANALYZER from Aircraft Spruce

[Draden]

Originally Posted by snbush67

Great thanks, that's more within my range.

I was looking at this ELECTRONICS INTERNATIONAL UBG-16 ULTIMATE BAR GRAPH ENGINE ANALYZER from Aircraft Spruce

Yes what Ron had there is top dog, mine is a very close second. Only because of the all at once display. The filtering and stability of the measurements and the response is equal and so is the reliability and quality of his and mine. There are pros and cons to each

But again, I like the ubg-16. A lot! have used them and it will work. Any others, I'd have to research and see reviews

I just don't want to promote the cht cause my sensors are a pain in the a$$ to install and not screw up. Once good, no problem but one time I damaged 3 just trying to install until I got one in without crushing it with the socket

I know Porsche even engineered a single cht onto just one head on some of their engines, why, probably cause they couldn't find the real estate either. I looked it all up years ago and researched it all and forgot now, but it's probably relevant info to add to this thread if someone wants to recall and add it.

Maybe between that info and this, someone will teach us all a better way in the future, I encourage innovation and hope to gain from others sharing as I do and everyone building a little bit better each time

[TCracingCA]

or

I was trying to follow along, but I definitely am falling behind! Maybe the lightning bolt will hit me!

[Draden]

Originally Posted by TCracingCA

I guess only a few select people are hit by lightning, and live to tell about it!

Does it count when piloting a business jet, I've been hit 3 separate times in a Challenger 604. Looked like the diameter of a tree trunk connecting with the radome one time, scary!

But last time I checked I didn't have any bolts growing out of my neck...... Yet........

Hmmmmmm....... A Porsche with a flux capacitor? .......... Hmmmmmm



.

[Draden]

Man, what I would do if I could have a pair of those front wheel motors and kers system off a 918 ( and maybe a kite string and a key in an electrical storm)


I don't even want to imagine the replacement purchase price for them.

Maybe in ten yrs I'll have a front wheel electric drive system augmenting the power on my 1967

I have though about it already and looked to see if anyone is making any kind of components The engineering involved is major. Placement and activation of the drive vs energy recovery. And storage systems that are weight effective. Lithium etc etc And the inertia speed. Omg 20 k rpm and greater on drive train recovery wheels. To be effective. Wow

Way out of my budget or anyone's right now, but some day......... I hope to do it

[Draden]

I just looked at that post above from tcracingca and forgot what I was even thinking now

Nice, I'm sure the view count of this thread will multiply. Wow

Ok in an attempt to get this back on topic about innovations and unique instrumentation and concepts

......... Next post

[Draden]

More pictures of the spoiler control panel

[Draden]

Pics of the k type wire routing

[Draden]

More moving aft

[TCracingCA]

Good turn out of the Socal hot rod "Race Inspired" older 911's!





And a bunch of other nice ones!



And the R Gruppe turned out in mass!



And the new GT-2 RS



And I heard this guy had to buy a car to get this license plate away from another owner!

[Pstallo]

I was looking at CHT gauges, but I wasn't sure what thermocouple to use if I wanted to hook one up. Is it a 14mm? They also have 7ft or 14 ft extension leads. Is the 14 ft extension what most people run to reach from the engine to the front of the car?

[gordner]

I used an MGL avionics TC-3 (MGL Avionics - Velocity) when I installed my EGT/CHT system. It is a fabulous tool, I installed it after I switched from CIS to Webbers as i was worried a blocked jet could lean one cylinder out and burn it up without my feeling it. It is an incredible tool for tuning the webbers as it gives me an output for each cylinder. The CHT also told me when I had failed to orient some of the engine tin correctly and was not getting airflow over the #3 cylinder head.
The TC3 is very cost effective at $375, bu the good probes will run you about 100 per. I got mine used from an aircraft removal through Ebay, got ten for 200 dollars.

[gordner]

You can make a CHT probe by twisting an alumel and an inconel wire together and soddering it to a 14MM washer. In my install I actually drilled the corner of the hex of the spark plug and wired directly to it with an inconel and an alumel wire, works perfectly and is easy to install.