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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Bath - England
Posts: 9
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3.2 knocking and not running
Hi Folks ,
Ive just taken the leap into 911 ownership and picked up a cheep 3.2 1985 Now its cheep for a reason , mainly that it needs some body love ( I own an early VW restoration shop ) so thats ok But it also doesn't run . It will spin over no problem and I'm told by PO ( who I know ) that it just stopped . He has looked at the fuses - Pump relay and has been left with the crank sensors as a possible fault . I will take a look at these over the next few days . If they need doing then no problem . I was also aware that the engine had a noisy top end - When it turns over there is a knocking that can be felt and heard in the right inlet manifold . Any Ideas ? Im quite aware that it may need a complete body restoration and paint and possibly an engine rebuild but Id quite like to use it a bit before I tear it all apart . Gladly my spare time and workshop , paint space is free so its parts only that I have to pay for , just in case everyone begins to proclaim how mad I must be . Thanks in advance for any help received BTW - Here it is ![]() Cheers Jon |
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Registered
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Welcome and nice car.
A 3.2 not running is a very common topic here if you do a search. The usual suspects are the DME relay and the sensors on the flywheel and any kind of alarm system preventing the DME from getting powered. However, a 3.2 sitting for a long time might have just stuck injectors (in your case maybe on top of the original problem). This can be resolved with a gentle tap onto the injectors with a large screwdriver handle while they are operated. That'll break the little needle loose and makes them work. I have seen that with 3.2 that sit longer than a couple of month. To troubleshoot go in the following order: 1. Check if ICV vibrates with ignition to ON (confirms alarm good and DME powered) 2. Check if DME relay clicks and fuel pump runs when cranking 3. Check for fuel pulses (or smell at exhaust) and spark If not spark and no fuel check the sensors (measure about ~1kohm for each, measure min. 2V AC for speed sensor while cranking). Make sure they are plugged into the right socket. Both sensor are identical but one listens for the reference mark and the other for the teeth (speed) Finally, check the DME. Best is to find someone with a 3.2 and swap yours in or get the other. For a short test it won't hurt anything either way. Good luck, Ingo
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1974 Targa 3.6, 2001 C4 (sold), 2019 GT3RS, 2000 ML430 I repair/rebuild Bosch CDI Boxes and Porsche Motronic DMEs Porsche "Hammer" or Porsche PST2, PIWIS III - I can help!! How about a NoBadDays DualChip for 964 or '95 993 |
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Fleabit peanut monkey
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Pull the valve covers on the right side. Eyeball the valve lash as you turn the engine by hand (socket on crank) Do some wiggling to see if you can identify the slop. Rockers should only slide sideways on their shafts about 15 thousandths when the cam lobe is free from the rocker. Check cam lobes, any broken springs, etc. Valve lash is 4 thousandths. You can do a quick check with your fingers just rocking. Just a tiny bit of play for an initial check.
Check head bolts to 20 ft pounds to check for stud breakage. 15 is more conservative. Don't want to create a problem. Compression check after this.
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1981 911SC Targa Last edited by Bob Kontak; 03-27-2014 at 08:07 AM.. |
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UFLYICU
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Be sure the "knocking" sound isn't actually loud ticking from the valve train, and not actual knocking from a loose or destroyed rod bearing. An experienced ear should be able to hear the difference, and the difference in cost of remedy is significant. Definitely check the valve train and adjust as necessary. The knocking of a rod bearing will be a lower frequency and will not improve with rpm as the valve noise should.
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_______________________ Racer Rix Spec911 #5 prc-racing.com |
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Fleabit peanut monkey
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Quote:
Stethescope or long screw driver (fat end in your ear) for finding location.
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1981 911SC Targa |
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Registered
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Nice euro car or look like it best luck with it.
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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Ontario Canada
Posts: 2,947
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Thats a euro model too !!!
Good Score i would say ... non start could be all kinds of things , start with the basics .. do you have spark ? go from there...
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1976 Yamaha XS360 ( Beats Walkin') 1978 911 SC Targa ( Yamaha Support Vehicle ) 2006 Audi A4 2.0T (Porsche Support Vehicle ) 2014 Audi A4 2.0T Technik (Audi Support Vehicle) |
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: MYR S.C.
Posts: 17,321
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after doing what bob said, i would do a compression test and a leak down test.
pull the plugs and spin it over again. just wanting to make sure its not a rod or bent/dropped valve
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86 930 94kmiles [_ ![]() 88 BMW 325is 200K+ SOLD 03 BMW 330CI 220K:: [_ ![]() 01 suburban 330K:: [_ ![]() RACE CAR:: sold |
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Member 911 Anonymous
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Update your location, you may have 3.2 buddy in the area to help you trouble shoot. If it is the DME, you canplace your DME into their car to insure it is not the computer. DO NOT PUT THEIR DME INTO YOUR CAR, just in case your car is defective.
Welcome aboard, she is a beauty :-) Jim
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'85 Carrera Targa Factory Marble Grey/Black * Turbo Tail * 930 Steering Wheel* Sport Seats * 17" Fuchs (r) * 3.4 * 964 Cams * 915 * LSD * Factory SS * Turbo Tie Rods * Bilsteins * Euro Pre-Muff * SW Chip on 4K DME * NGK * Sienes GSK * Targa Body Brace PCA/POC |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Bath - England
Posts: 9
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Thanks Guys for all the info - I will work through over the next eek or so .
Euro Model - But I am in England ! Really excited to get into this and no doubt more silly questions to follow Thanks Jon |
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83 911 Production Cab #10
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Jon,
I'm sure it won't be held agains you ![]() What part of the UK are you located? Believe it or not, I kind of miss not having went to BIF this year...
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Who Will Live... Will See ![]() ![]() ![]() 83 911 Production Cab #10, Slightly Modified: Unslanted, 3.2, PMO EFI, TECgt, CE 911 CAM Sync / Pulley / Wires, SSI, Dansk Sport 2/2, 17" Euromeister, CKO GT3 Seats, Going SOK Super Charger |
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