Oil Cooler Removal Engine in Car

[nicfranc]

I have removed the CIS and done a partial drop on my 1980sc to work on oil leaks in the Triangle.
Can I remove the oil cooler and replace the rubber seals with the engine in the car. Has anyone done this ?

I tried searching but did not find much.
Can it be done without removing the heat exchanger ?

As Always Thanks for all the help.

[boyt911sc]

Nick,

At your present set-up, you should have complete access to the bolts for the engine cooler and be able to remove them and pull out the cooler with no problem. Take a picture of the engine from the passenger side with the right rear wheel remove. You have plenty of room to do the removal and installation. Do forget to remove the small bolts for the engine tin. Keep us posted.

Tony

[nicfranc]

OK I am going in.

I figured if I have gone this far it would be foolish not to replace the rubber oil cooler sealer.

and if anyone is wondering YES if I had to do it again I would have dropped the engine.
but since I was planning on dropping it this winter I figured I would do a quick in and out.

HA !! Three days and counting.

Thanks to all the Pelican members for your Guidance.
I could not do this without you.

Nick

[4flyboy]

Hilarious Nick! "cover me I'm going in"......

good luck man. S.

[nicfranc]

The oil cooler removal with the engine in the car went very well.
One of the easiest porsche procedures I have done.

Of course without the CIS in the car getting to the small shroud cap is a piece of cake.

You also have to drain the oil and remove the right side tin.

Remove the right rear tire and remove the two top 13mm nuts and the bottom two 13mm nuts you can pull it out the right side.

I don't know if you can do this with the CIS in place.


The Clean Room
g]

[Ronnie's.930]

So what roles do the golf club and balls play in the cleaning process?!?!?!

[nicfranc]

Originally Posted by Ronnie's.930

So what roles do the golf club and balls play in the cleaning process?!?!?!

My Hi Tech parts cleaning Spa is conveniently located adjacent to my very own private driving range.

When I get frustrated working on the car instead of beating the car with the nearest tool I whack some golf balls into the net until the urge to attack the car subsides.
Then I have another beer.

Pelican Parts Smileys - Page 4

[70basket]

Originally Posted by nicfranc

and if anyone is wondering YES if I had to do it again I would have dropped the engine.
but since I was planning on dropping it this winter I figured I would do a quick in and out.



Nick

Thanks for the advice. I am going to tackle the same job on my car and was considering doing it in the car but will go ahead with the drop now.

[Ronnie's.930]

Ha ha - yep, much better to take frustrations out on some golf balls as opposed to your car's fenders!

[Walt Fricke]

Nic - my experience, such as it is, is that those seals don't fail. At least, none have failed on me. Typically I don't replace them if I have the cooler off for any reason. Now these are my own motors, not customer motors where more caution is often used.

So did you find anything about the seals you removed which suggested one or more of them was no longer doing its job?

[nicfranc]

Originally Posted by Walt Fricke

Nic - my experience, such as it is, is that those seals don't fail. At least, none have failed on me. Typically I don't replace them if I have the cooler off for any reason. Now these are my own motors, not customer motors where more caution is often used.

So did you find anything about the seals you removed which suggested one or more of them was no longer doing its job?

Actually they were perfect.
Further supporting your findings.

I had no idea how long they have been in there but I thought since my engine is original and has 300,000 miles on it the prudent thing to do would be to replace them as part of my buttoning up all the possible areas that could leak.

I also had purchased from Pelican new seals so my plan was to install them.

I had a minor oil leak that was dripping down on the Heat Exchanger and it was annoying.
I believe the leak was from the Thermostat O-Ring. I replaced it and the oil light sending
unit. Also put a new gasket on the case breather.

Now it is time to turn this ship around and re install the CIS.
I am not looking forward to this and may come to my senses and drop the engine to do it.

Anyone have any tricks for installing the CIS with the engine in the car ?

You kids at home don't do what Uncle Nick did…..listen to the experienced men of substance on this board and just Drop the engine.

( I noticed you Porsche guys say "Drop" the engine where us VW guys used to say "Pull" the engine )
Now I am just rambling from working on the car all day. That and i am High on Carburetor and Brake cleaner.

[timmy2]

No real tricks to re-installing, just make sure to lay out the wiring to the devices where they want to end up.
Fishing out the AAR cable from under the airbox is impossible...
Go slow and lay everything out far away from the intake ports!
Have a good extendable magnet for fishing out the nuts and washers for the studs when they fall off...
Have a large assortment of 1/4 and 3/8 sockets and drivers with many flexible pieces.
I usually install with the 1/4 stuff and tighten with 3/8.

[nicfranc]

So did you find anything about the seals you removed which suggested one or more of them was no longer doing its job?[/QUOTE]



I found the seals to be in very good shape but i am not sure how long they have been in there.
The brown seals are what i removed and the green are from Pelican.
Notice the large brown seal was pinched a bit on installation.
I am not sure if it was enough to cause a leak.
My leak was from the dreaded "Triangle" area.
Also the brown seals had a ridge in the middle or at the "equator"

[yelcab1]

They will pinch a bit.
That is not a ridge. That comes from the compression of the rubber by the two metal faces the ring was sealing against.

[nicfranc]

Originally Posted by yelcab1

They will pinch a bit.
That is not a ridge. That comes from the compression of the rubber by the two metal faces the ring was sealing against.

AHA ……I thought it was like the no hub plumbing connectors.
Good to know.

Reinstallation is not exactly the reverse of removal.

Here is where having the engine out and rotated on a stand makes the oil cooler installation way less stressful.
Installing in the vertical position has to be done carefully so the seals do not get dislodged
while torquing down the 13mm nuts.

I set the seals in some grease to hold them in place.
I guess you can start the installation with the seals in the oil cooler or in the Engine side.
I am setting them on the engine side.

Update: Installation was uneventful.
Placed seals in place on engine side with a little dab of grease to hold them.
Lowered oil cooler down from inside engine compartment. torqued down the four 13mm nuts.
Now I have to paint the tin before reinstallation. (I can't help myself…... someone just stop me)

[kwikt 911]

Does the top engine shroud have to be removed for this task?

[nicfranc]

I did it with it in place