Help! Replaced oil cooler seals now leaking

[maresdesign]

Over the winter I pulled the motor to do a clutch job and all new external seals. The "triangle" seals, main seal, flywheel seal, etc. where replaced. Yesterday I finally got the motor back in. I added 8 quarts of oil and started it up. Everything sounded good so I backed it down the driveway. Then I smelled the burning oil and drove it back into the garage, looked under and oil was streaming out from under the oil cooler area.
Could I have pinched a seal? Any other ideas of what to look for.

I'm a bit frustrated since I took my time over the winter and double-checked all procedures and torque specs.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[CCM911]

As far as I know, you can pull the engine oil cooler without dropping the engine, so at least you will not be inconvenienced too much. Before you do anything, you should clean the area around the leak so you could definitely identify the leak. Then, I would drain the engine oil into a clean pan so you could re-use. When you remove the oil cooler, you'll be able to see if you pinched the seals. I did mine a few years back, and it was pretty straightforward to replace the seals as they only fit one way. Are you sure it is not the oil hose that is leaking?

[maresdesign]

I checked all the hoses and they where dry. I fired it up again to watch the leak and I could see oil dripping (fast drip almost pouring) right from the bottom of the cooler. I know there could be other possible areas it is coming from though. I visually checked the Triangle and that area looks dry. It appears to only leak while the motor is running.

[maresdesign]

Could I have added too much oil? The motor and tank were dry and I added 8 quarts to the tank, then turned the motor over for a while before starting it.

[Storage Man]

I have empathy for you.
This is why I don't do plumbing in my house..

[Alan Lindquist]

I'm not excited about re-using oil after it's been drained. Too many opportunities to gather some grit. However... I did it once.

I have a drain pan (with spout) that holds probably 15 quarts. I lined it with a trash can liner and drained (cold oil) into the bag and then closed the top of the bag. By pulling part of the bag through the drain spout, I was able to fill recently emptied oil quarts with a funnel and later re-introduce the oil.

I was fighting the same thing as you - significant leak after the triangle of death. In my case, the big oil hose had given up after being "handled" for the engine-out-and-back-in part of that job and I had to drain $75 worth of Valvoline VR1 20-50 that had just several hours of run time.

New hose and clamps, nearly new oil. Done. But still don't like the idea of doing that and I don't think I'd do it again.

[Ronnie's.930]

My bet is that you either didn't get one of the oil cooler seals to situate properly or the oil cooler was damaged during the removal/install. Since you have to remove it again anyway, it would be a good idea to take it someplace to have it pressure tested (if you can't do that at home).

[maresdesign]

I changed the seals when the motor was out of the car and was careful handing the cooler. I just realized that I never soaked the seals in oil as I think I was supposed to do when installing the new ones.

Looks like I've got some more wrenching to do.

[Ronnie's.930]

Originally Posted by maresdesign

I changed the seals when the motor was out of the car and was careful handing the cooler. I just realized that I never soaked the seals in oil as I think I was supposed to do when installing the new ones.

Looks like I've got some more wrenching to do.

No need to soak the seals in oil - can smear some silicone grease on them - works much better and is way less messy. One quality brand is Danco 484-846-7500 - in the plumbing sections of hardware stores.

[maresdesign]

Photo below shows the new seals I installed. I did, however, remove the seals to wipe off the Silicone RTV as I read that it could clog oil passages if a piece broke off.
Now I wonder if a seal did slip out of location when I bolted it up.

[brighton911]

You aren't the first guy to replace the seals (properly) and have leaks. Although your picture shows the seals certainly seem to stand proud enough, maybe they are not as thick as what came out. Don't suppose you have the old ones so you can compare the dimensions. I know one of our local guys (JJ911SC) also had a problem after he changed the seals, you can search for his thread and what he did. Good thing your drive was short, could have been a much worse outcome.

[maresdesign]

I didn't save the old ones. I do remember they were hard as a rock compared to the new ones. Thanks for the info.

[timmy2]

Don't use RTV on any part of the engine. That is not the same as a silicone base grease.
Dow 111 silicone grease is what most use on these to hold in place when assembling. Works great on the lower oil tube o-rings too.


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[brcorp]

Second the Dow 111 silicone grease.....

[howard freeman]

Third on the Dow & install the seals in the case,not on the cooler.
Howard

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by Ronnie's.930

My bet is that you either didn't get one of the oil cooler seals to situate properly or the oil cooler was damaged during the removal/install. Since you have to remove it again anyway, it would be a good idea to take it someplace to have it pressure tested (if you can't do that at home).

+1

I bet something happened that stressed and cracked the cooler vs cooler seals.

[The cap'n]

The use of RTV is a SURE way to induce leaks. Porsche (and other manufacturers) design the interface to be seal to metal. Their engineering departments are way bigger than yours, and I'd probably go with what they did, given a choice. There are places where sealants are preferred or required, and even then you should use the particular sealant for which the joint was designed.

The Cap'n

[Flat6pac]

I crushed the idiot light switch washer too tight and distorted the copper to cause an oil leak when running. Oil ran right too the bottom forward nut on the cooler.
The cooler isnt suposed to be flowing until the thermostat opens at 180 degrees.
Bruce

[wildcat077]

You got the newer updated green seals ... probably just had one misaligned when you reinstalled your cooler.I was kind of weary myself when i replaced mine a few years back !

I remember installing mine with a small dab of Lucas oil treatment just to keep them seated in place ... that stuff is almost thick like molasses ...

Cheers
Phil

[uwanna]

Originally Posted by Flat6pac

I crushed the idiot light switch washer too tight and distorted the copper to cause an oil leak when running. Oil ran right too the bottom forward nut on the cooler.
The cooler isnt suposed to be flowing until the thermostat opens at 180 degrees.
Bruce

Great deductive thinking Flat6pac! Yes, if the OP had indeed just started a cold engine and backed it out the driveway, there should be NO oil flowing thru the cooler. Like you said, 180 deg to open the thermostat takes a good bit of time, till then the thermo is slap shut!
Also, the lower single seal is just oil under almost no pressure (gravity flow), so probably not that.
Me thinks it's time to look elsewhere. Oil leak flows can be very misleading.