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Great story. Looking forward to updates. Thanks for sharing.
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Took a few hours to replace the sparkplugs (WDC7+), plug wires (Magnecore), Beru Distributor cap, Bosch rotor, Porsche dust seal. It was pretty easy to get to everything with the Blower, A/C and cruise control stuff removed. Still drew some blood though.
Amazingly, the car still runs. I had to use half of the original spark plug wire clips and some tie wraps to hold the wires in place. The Magnecores are thicker than the original Berus. It ain't pretty, but it works. Got a few drives in this weekend. The car is running great! My dash piece from Rennline should be in next, so I will install it and relocate the window defogger switch (and maybe the flasher switch and light switch too). I am talking to Heritage Upholstery about an interior vinyl kit and a carpet kit. That will be after the dash. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1434331340.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1434331356.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1434331372.jpg |
Changing focus to the dash now.
I removed the cruise control stalk switch. I just installed the Rennline solid dash piece. The one slotted hole on the right doesn't line up, so I have to drill a new hole. Other than that, it fits "ok". http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1436233501.jpg I am relocating the headlight and defog switches to this bracket I made that is located where the ashtray was. l will have this bracket powder coated black: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1436233544.jpg The Flasher switch will be hidden under the dash near the original location. I have a MOMO Retro Wheel and MOMO hub on order, so that will be installed after I relocate the switches. |
Looking good Mike!!
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Thank you Jeff.
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Looking good! I'm looking forward to seeing what you do with the center console components as I am planning to remove all of my A/C and what not soon.
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Got the headlight and defog switches in and wired today. Got new faceplate roses to hold the switches in. That is the fancy term for the plastic nuts for the switches - P/N 911.613.213.03 and 911.613.213.02. I will remove the aluminum bracket when I am done making all brackets and send them all out for powdercoat.
Everything still works! Next I will make a small angle bracket for the Emergency Flasher switch. It will still be on the left side, just under the panel, and angled like the other two, so I don't have to look at it. Received my new Momo Retro steering wheel, hub and horn button. They are going to look nice. I will be waiting until I glue up some of the gauge vinyl that has separated, replace the odometer gear (gear ordered) and install the gauge LED lights before the wheel/hub install. Then the dash is done and I move to interior vinyl and carpet. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1437276092.jpg |
Today I glued the vinyl that was loose,drilled one hole in the Rennline piece, and then attached the dash for good. I installed new LED bulbs in the gauges. I then reassembled the steering wheel area switch covers and installed a Momo Retro wheel/hub. I had to remove the porsche horn swiper and extend the horn ground cable. Here is a picture. I have not permanently installed the horn button as I need to drive the car to make sure it is splined up properly.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1437352402.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1437352491.jpg My speedo is out awaiting the replacement odometer gear. |
Great progress. Enjoying the build.
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Thanks!
Got the odometer fixed with a new gear today and plugged it back in. The I checked the orientation of the steering wheel on a short drive, centered it, tightened it and then installed the new horn button. The dash is nearly done. I will order the carpet and and vinyl for the interior next. I have one other idea for the dash that I am exploring... I like the new Momo. Nice feel. It is weird after having driven this car for some 25+ years and with 250k miles on it to grab a different wheel. Not "bad" weird, just different. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1437447018.jpg |
Some progress this weekend. Yesterday I had the better part of a day, so I customized the Rennline dash delete piece. I always liked the retro basketweave look. So I bought some continuous pieces of the extrusion and the basketweave material. First, I cut the basketweave to the correct width using the backside of the extrusion as a guide and a new exacto blade. The front side has some overhang in the top and bottom of the extrusion where the vinyl is tucked while gluing.
Here are the materials I used - the yellow adhesive for bonding the vinyl to extrusion, and the double sided sticky foam for adhering the extrusion to the dash face: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1439150638.jpg I used some inexpensive plastic spreaders form Harbor Freight, modifying one by snipping the end with wire cutters every 1/16" or so and then changing the overall width to fit neatly inside the extrusion: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1439150615.jpg The spreader made a nice thin layer of glue with small ridges. You let this sit while you spread the glue on the vinyl: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1439150662.jpg You don't have to get to the edges of the vinyl as they will be tucked under. If you put too much adhesive or get too close to the edge, this just creates a mess on the front side that will need to be cleaned up. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1439150684.jpg You get a limited amount of time to get the vinyl into position. You need to land it fairly close to where it needs to be. I used a clean plastic spreader to work the vinyl under the extrusion edge. Using a table saw, I had cut a section of leftover plywood I had laying around so that it would fit very tightly inside the edges of the extrusion. This was used to help clamp the vinyl while the glue set up. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1439150703.jpg I kept them clamped for 15-30 minutes and then moved onto the other half of the big piece. The small piece on the driver's side was one shot. I then wrapped and glued the ends to the back of the extrusion and cut the hole for the ignition switch (pizza cut) and glued the vinyl back around the hole. Lastly, I put the double sided foam adhesive tape (1/4" wide) on the length of the extrusion next to the top and bottom edges and clamped that in place on the dash. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1439151512.jpg Installing the dash was easy. The only interference came from the lower steering column clamshell lower plastic flange. A dremel cut of about 3/16 relieved that and the rest was easy and fast. Total time (including cutting the extrusion) was about 3 hours. Total cost: Rennline dash - $225 Extrusion - $125 Vinyl - $25. I really like the look. |
I like the basketweave so much that I covered my new under dash switch panel in it:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1439151785.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1439151807.jpg Hoping to finish off the interior with fresh carpet and vinyl next. I will also be adding a shiny metal engine grill. Oh, and I found a deal (thanks Lou) on a new Dansk steel S bumper for $680 that I just ordered. |
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That looks great. It's the small details that really make a difference.
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Subscribing to your madness!
Loving this project, incredible attention to detail, excellent craftsmanship too. |
Can you tell me where you found the extrusion and any details you have on it, thanks.
BTW awesome project. -Rich |
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Thanks everyone. I bought the extrusion and vinyl from this seller.
Chuck is a real nice person. He cut me the exact lengths I specified and sent me an extra piece so that I could figure out how best to cut it. I used a new fine metal blade jigsaw (bosch t118a - about 20 TPI from Home Depot) cutting from the backside so the teeth pull up through the visible front side...it worked great. The vinyl he sent was probably 6 inches wide and some 6 feet long. This was enough to probably do the job twice over if you use one of his edges trimmed right to use it. The width you need will be around 2.5"-2.75" inches I think. One thing to know is that the aluminum is raw - not anodized or dipped. It is soft. I protected the edges with painters tape during the process. You might notice a gap between my two extrusion pieces...this could be removed if so desired. It can't really be seen that easily. Anything else I can tell you? Mike |
One other thing I will add about trimming and applying the vinyl...the front face has very small undercuts to it so that the vinyl can tuck underneath the top and bottom edges. I used the backside of the extrusion as a template to cut to as the undercuts are not there. I think this allows you to not have to put glue too close to the edge as it is held in the undercut.I hope that this makes sense.
Mike |
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