Mike,

Very nice!

Thanks Lou. I am taking a couple weeks off then will attack the door, windshield and targa seals.

Your couple of weeks off are over... :-)

Life kicked me in the shins...I'll get back at it. Thanks for checking in!

Got the Porsche 1972 small rectangular mirrors in (great) and the chrome aftermarket rear bumperettes (okay). Need to order the chrome door handles to see the quality, and the appbiz RS America door cards...then I will tackle the doors. After I get through this life lesson I will be back at it.

Great project! I love what you did with the fuse panel, I'll be studying that a little closer for when when I attempt mine. Cheers!

Feel free to ask questions. I made it harder on myself than I really needed to. I learned some in the process.

Got my Dansk chrome door handle set in - I saw it briefly before I headed out on a trip....looks great and the price was nice ($250 shipped for both handles and lock assys with keys).

Next order is RS style interior door cards...then I have no excuse not to start on the doors.

Well, a few weeks turned into months. Where does the time go?

I finally started working on the doors today. I removed the door toppers and all door panel components. I have a passenger door window that is slow to raise...I found the spring retainer sitting in the bottom of the door. I also have a driver side window that easily pops out of the channel and will need to be glued. I think there is a rusty channel on that side too...

I received my Appbiz RSA door cards with silver pulls.

I also removed the mirrors and they are dangling from the harnesses as I am awaiting the tool to remove the connector shells.

Lastly, I installed the Dansk replacement chrome door handles. Other than having a buggered first thread one stud that I needed to deal with and needing to screw in the plunger/actuators all the way, they work and look fine. That is a nice quick fix.

I need to install a remote keyless entry system. I just ordered an Avital 2101L from Amazon.

Pictures of the door handles:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1477343437.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1477343473.jpg

Subscribed!, All OCD work makes me feel normal!

Today I put on the passenger's side mirror using the "easy" method. I had a sheet of black 1/16" ABS plastic left over from another project. After cutting the shape slightly larger that the black gasket that came with the mirrors, I used a heatgun to soften it and bend it in a curve longitudinally. That, when the mirror was bolted on, created another gasket covering the holes. It looks fine for now. I might make a doubler in metal for the backside though as my holes are near the edges of some of the preexisting larger ones. It beats welding and repainting the doors.

The driver's side will be quite a bot more difficult due to its location on the door. I will have to drill hole on the inside to be able to screw into the mirror.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1478133909.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1478133923.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1478133936.jpg

Today I did the preliminary install of the keyless door lock system and got it working. The chrome handles I have do not have the door lock micro switches in them so I needed a way to lock the doors and I wanted a remote keyless entry. I found this system on Amazon for $30:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1478304030.jpg

With a little experimentation I figured out that the Blue/Yellow wire at the actuator, when powered with +12VDC and the Green/Red wire grounded powers the actuator to lock the door. When you put +12VDC on the Green/Red wire and ground the Blue/Yellow wire at the actuator, then the actuator is powered to unlock the doors. The other connections for the internal switch of the actuator must just report the position back to the control module. I will not be using those.

The implementation of a modern remote keyless entry module was real easy given this. I just put +12VDC on the main input (red wire) to the control module and the Violet and Violet/Black wires that are listed as #87 Normally Open (Input). I grounded the control module black ground wire along with the White/Black and Brown/Black wires that are listed as #87A Normally Closed. I then connected the Blue/Black wire from the module to the Green/Red wire at the actuator and then the Green/Black wire from the module to the Blue/Yellow wire at the actuator.

The control module has both Green/Black and Blue/Black wires to the actuator rest at ground when not in use. When you push the lock or unlock button on the remote, the control module puts +12VDC on the appropriate wire (Green/Black or Blue/Black) to move the actuator the appropriate direction. It then grounds both wires again after about a second.

The control module is so light that I just used velcro to attach it. The valet switch and red flashing LED are hooked up but not located. I may not even keep these features. I don't see any benefit. The valet button is used for programming higher level functions. The red LED flashes brightly when the doors are locked.

I have not done my final wiring bundle as I might implement the horn honk feature. I want to make sure I am in the final configuration before I cut the unused wires and shorten all of the three runs to the final lengths and routing (power, ground and actuator runs).

I put the power to position 17 of my fuse box for constant power and fused it at 15amps. The ground will go where the wiper control module is attached right above the fuse box. I reused the original harness for the door lock system but cut off several branches that went to power, ground and the old original control module. The original control module was located on the driver's side. I wanted my new one on the other side of the car, so I flipped the harness. The actuator power and ground wires are daisy chained in the original harness. They went from the original control module location behind the gauges to the driver's side door connector then to the passenger's side door connector. By flipping the harness, I had the wires to the original control module right near where I put the new one.

Not bad for $30.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1478304047.jpg

Here is the actuator hookup for future reference:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1478305520.jpg

The updated fuse list:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1478307541.jpg

Subbed
 

Great project, lots of similarity to my 76 targa project except you are further advanced and way quicker.

Giving me some needed inspiration

Regards Michael
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1478309816.jpg

Looking good Tassi! Do you have a build thread? I have some more door work to do and then I am heading to the front of the car for new fenders, bumper and hood.

Okay, so I have had a couple to days to work on the car. I spent an hour or two hooking up the horn honk feature of the remote keyless entry system. I located teh small brown/white horn ground wire near my new horn relay and soldered a brown extension wire from the Keyless Control Module. The locking and unlocking is silent unless you press the rear hatch open button on the remote before locking and unlocking. Doing that turns the horn honking feature on temporarily. You get one honk for lock and two honks for unlock. Sweet.

I cut off all the excess wiring from the control module for the remainder of the features I will not use. I still need to shorten and reroute the power and ground and then tape teh harness up for good.

Today was spent on the door guts....something I have been avoiding. My door have a lot of glue and old silicone on them. Both sides have helper spring posts that have left their factory locations and ended up in the bottoms of the doors - leading to slow windows going up. I also have a driver's side window that keep popping out.

So I spent at least one hour removing the guts of both doors. Man are those regulators tricky to remove. But remove them I did. I also found that the reason teh driver's window keeps popping out was that the window channel was rust through in about 50% of its length and the channel had lost its ability to hold onto the window. New part ordered - $350 WOW.

I then spent probably one hour one each door using Citru Strip, Goof Off, Isopropyl Alcohol and other cleaners along with razor blades scraping the perimeter area I need to adhere the new moisture barriers to. I also took out the old lower plastic screw expanding nuts along the bottom of the doors. I will be installing new AppBiz RS America Door Cards with Silver pulls. I then went shopping for standoffs and cap head screws to act as new up spring stops, paint supplies to repaint the black portion of the inner door, and other bits.

Picture of the new window spring standoffs with the old peened factory unit:http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1479266990.jpg

Picture of the door...before prime and satin black paint of the outer inch or two:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1479267039.jpg

I still need to source one of these:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1479267052.jpg

Lastly, I did some adjusting of the rear bumpers and mounted the front bumper tube supports (the old black ones and a new grey one):

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1479267308.jpg

Loosely installed with oil tank support bracket:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1479267328.jpg

I need to make final adjustments and shim as necessary. The black lower bumper section has a brushed metal cap that needs to be riveted on after paint...this should take up the difference to the wheel arch:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1479267713.jpg