Replace headstuds or reuse original ones??

[chrisbruck]

My car is in the shop undergoing a topend only rebuild at the moment. 158k on original 3.2 Carrera motor. Street car with occasional track days for fun. Will continue as a stock daily driver (no serious track time).

Talked with service tech and we discussed the headstuds. They are all original and none are broken. Minor corrosion on a couple of the intake ones but nothing too alarming.

Trying to keep the overall costs in check. Service tech was on the fence on replacing and leaving it up to me.

So… Would you replace or not?

[Mr Project]

Admittedly I'm scarred from having just done this myself on my 3.2, but I would replace them without hesitation!

Assuming they are original and not previously upgraded already, they are practically guaranteed to fail at some point (at least by Murphy's Law) and it is much more expensive to come back into the engine this far at a later date.

[Storage Man]

Originally Posted by chrisbruck

My car is in the shop undergoing a topend only rebuild at the moment. 158k on original 3.2 Carrera motor. Street car with occasional track days for fun. Will continue as a stock daily driver (no serious track time).

Talked with service tech and we discussed the headstuds. They are all original and none are broken. Minor corrosion on a couple of the intake ones but nothing too alarming.

Trying to keep the overall costs in check. Service tech was on the fence on replacing and leaving it up to me.

So… Would you replace or not?

You have been lucky so far. Replace them while your there.
You eventually need to replace the others as well.

[Nicks911]

Having gone through this with a 3.0 or my 914 (3 broken) I would replace them. Think of the time effort and $$ if your not doing the work yourself to replace the studs if they snap in a year or so.

[safe]

If its apart, change them!
The supertec studs are good value.

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by safe

If its apart, change them!
The supertec studs are good value.

Aren't the all-thread studs from later (90's) 911's acceptable for a street car? Far less money, not real exotic but hefty enough that they don't break.

This is a street car.

Supertec, Raceware and the other big name brand (plus others, probably) are wonderful. But I am thinking the fatties are a good fit for purpose.

[john walker's workshop]

replace the lower dilivar studs with steel. really no need to replace the steel top row.

[gtc]

Originally Posted by Bob Kontak

Aren't the all-thread studs from later (90's) 911's acceptable for a street car? Far less money, not real exotic but hefty enough that they don't break.

This is a street car.

Supertec, Raceware and the other big name brand (plus others, probably) are wonderful. But I am thinking the fatties are a good fit for purpose.

Actually, at $47.75 each, the 993 head studs are the most expensive option.

If you look around, you can find a set of ARPs for $550, which is only marginally more than a set of regular steel studs, nuts and washers.

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by gtc

Actually, at $47.75 each, the 993 head studs are the most expensive option.

If you look around, you can find a set of ARPs for $550, which is only marginally more than a set of regular steel studs, nuts and washers.

Yes - $468 for the complete steel set from PP for the subject car.

Mind you, my base of info is from old posts. Maybe it read something like steel studs "similar to the 993". Anyhoo, yes the 993 studs are expensive. They are by no means less expensive.

[timmy2]

Originally Posted by john walker's workshop

replace the lower dilivar studs with steel. really no need to replace the steel top row.

Worked for me 3 years ago. Still running strong. Reused the washers and nuts as well.


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[911pcars]

Pelican's parts catalog says steel head studs are $14.50 ea. You need 12 for the lower row to match the existing 12 on the upper row. That's $174 according to my calculator (free shipping it says too). FWIW, I haven't heard (anecdotal) of many failure reports of non-Dilavar head studs. Apply the difference toward stronger con rod bolts/nuts and other upgrades.

As for the more exotic steel alloys available (ARP, Raceware, etc.), YMMV.

Sherwood

[gtc]

Were the lower studs different from the uppers on 3.2s? When I pulled my '84 engine apart, all 24 appeared to be the same type of stud.

[chrisbruck]

So I did more reading and it seems the general consensus is to replace the lower dilivar studs with steel and leave the uppers alone.

Does this make sense? Do the upper steel studs ever have issues?

[Bill Douglas]

Just do what John says. We are lucky to have his expert advice.

[kodioneill]

Just to back up what John said, I talked to a race engine machine shop in California he is one of the most respected guy's in the business he say's to use steel unless you intend to have a high performance engine and the spec's are almost as strong as the aftermarket stuff anyway.

[john walker's workshop]

Originally Posted by gtc

Were the lower studs different from the uppers on 3.2s? When I pulled my '84 engine apart, all 24 appeared to be the same type of stud.

a magnet will tell you.

[Shaun @ Tru6]

I replaced all lower studs when I found 7 broken ones in my 84 with Canyon steel from Pelican.

Part # 10-0115-101-M105.

They are $14.50 now, I think $11 when I ordered them a few months ago.