Inner CV Joint removable?

[brios]

Porsche Brethren: Need bailout please. 1997 C4S front drivers side axle repair, not going well! The axle is removed, on my bench, outer (trany side) CV joint is removed. Can not remove the inner side (wheel) joint. It has a cir-clip available (Part #993.349.038.03 - Schalter) is it removable? For cleaning, inspection etc.

[The cap'n]

Welcome to the VW/Audi style outer CV joint connection! The tabs on the circlip must be spread as far as they will go and the shaft pulled out. In most cases, this job is done with the shaft in a vise with "V" cut soft jaws, and the inner race is removed with a drift and a BFH, because the axle shaft is NOT a slip fit. Note that you should the shaft as close to the axis of the joint when doing this. BTW, it's a 2 man job, and holding the clip open is a challenge. I bought a relatively expensive little tool for just that purpose, but it wasn't worth the price of the zip-lock bag it came in.

The Cap'n

[ChrisBennet]

Originally Posted by brios

Porsche Brethren: Need bailout please. 1997 C4S front drivers side axle repair, not going well! The axle is removed, on my bench, outer (trany side) CV joint is removed. Can not remove the inner side (wheel) joint. It has a cir-clip available (Part #993.349.038.03 - Schalter) is it removable? For cleaning, inspection etc.

I always thought of the tranny side as the "inner" and the wheel side as the "outer" side of the axle. Did you make a typo or have I been wrong all these years? (I've been wrong a *lot* so it wouldn't surprise me.)

[brios]

Thank you, Capt. I'll find a friend and give it a try. You know this is hard, so tell me again please, the axle shaft comes off or do I lift the cage and race out after the clip is pulled open. I have been cleaning the joint with degreaser and brake cleaner for two days, can it be cleaned and rebooted as is or must it be removed? Thanks again

[The cap'n]

Clamp the drive axle shaft in a vise. Protect it from gouging or scratching. I use soft jaws made of aluminum with a "V" in them to aid in clamping round objects. Once the clip is spread, use a long drift (some call it a punch) to drive the inner race of the joint off the shaft. You only have to get it started before you let go of the clip. Say, maybe 3-4 mm, then you've passed the slot and the joint will keep moving as you tap on it. Sometimes it takes quite a bit of effort to take it off. DO NOT hit the outer race or the cage! It is possible to lube the joint without removal, but it's better to take it off. The grease comes with the boot kit, and I squeeze the whole tube or pouch (cut the corner off the pouch so it's like a cake funnel) into the joint through the hole in the center. It's not very likely you'll need to replace the snap ring. I must have had a thousand of them in my hardware bucket before I closed the shop.

Have fun! The Cap'n

[Eagledriver]

why bother removing it. Unless you are going to replace it, just slip on the new boot from the other end and regrease.

-Andy

[brios]

If I thought the joint was clean enough, grease and reboot, I would. Struggle with myself with this issue, god knows I want to. However, my Capt suggested "soft-vice", friend and hammer. Managed to place a wedge and expand Cir clip, locked axle to work bench. Question is: hammer (with the punch) on the wedge to knock back the shaft from the CV? Two man job suggestion no good, I am on my own here. Thanks again Capt. See photo for details

[brios]

[brios]

[brios]

Capt: . Locked down the axle on the bench, placed a wedge on the Cir clip to keep it open, and now do I hammer where the wedge is? In order to back out the shaft from CV joint to slightly achieve separation continue hammering on this point? Thanks Capt.

[brios]

God knows I want to grease and reboot, but the joint is still not as clean as it should be. But, I am getting closer to rebooting every minute I struggle with this.

[The cap'n]

Originally Posted by brios

Capt: . Locked down the axle on the bench, placed a wedge on the Cir clip to keep it open, and now do I hammer where the wedge is? In order to back out the shaft from CV joint to slightly achieve separation continue hammering on this point? Thanks Capt.

Put the tip of the punch/drift on one of the 5 heavy "fingers" of the inner race, as close to the shaft as possible. Most likely, you're going to have to hit it pretty hard. You may have to use more than one of those "fingers" in order to get the CV joint to move. BTW, it doesn't look as if the tabs of the circlip are spread far enough. When you hit the race, it's likely whatever you've wedged in there will pop out. Over the years, I've found nothing beats someone holding the tabs apart with a pair of snap ring pliers. On second thought, "if" the wedge is actually holding the tabs far enough apart, maybe you could hit it there. Only gonna have one shot at it, though ........................

The Cap'n

[brios]

Cap'n: Sorry to pester, Booted/greased and reassembled driver side CV (bearings became dull but seems to move ok) Thank you, much. The tranny side joint reassembly was complicated by alinement of cage/race, can you confirm reassembly is correct before I grease and boot, please. thanks again for walking me thru it all. Photos

[The cap'n]

NOT correct. Look at the alternating wide/narrow "fingers" between the races. Wide inner to narrow outer, narrow inner to wide outer. They need the correct angles on the races to work, and what you show will NOT work. In fact, they may be somewhat difficult to take back apart. Look at the pictures of the outer joints. See how they are?

The Cap'n

[brios]

Cap'n: I've seen and read these instruction for organizing the joint (small to large etc.). The cage/race alinement is not letting me place more than on bearing inside the race. You can see from the photo the poor alinement (make believe you're talking to a gorilla) hours trying different organization, help me out please.

[The cap'n]

Take it apart. Hold the outer race flat (horizontal). Hold the inner race AND the cage vertical (at a right angle to the outer). Install as many balls as you can, and turn it so it's horizontal with the proper big to small configuration. Generally speaking, I think you can get 2 nearly opposite balls in the races at the beginning. Tip it back up so an empty race is open, insert a ball and return it to horizontal. Do another one the same way. Repeat as necessary. Report back. If I had one here, I'd do a video, but that's not gonna happen today.

The Cap'n

[brios]

Cap'n, It finally fell into place! The key was persistence based on your confidence. Thank you, very much!

[The cap'n]

Good. It would have taken me a couple of hours to set up and shoot a video, and I have NO idea how to post one of those ...............................

The Cap'n

[brios]

Cap'n:Thank you, for your support and assistance ! This morning reinstalling the axle and the new ball joint. Could not have gotten here with out your help. Using a jack to lift the wheel first. Torq'g in tight spots is there a small torq wrench to facilitate? 1/2" wrench is too long. Thanks, the saga continues. Bill

[brios]

Cap'n: This follow up, best point to jack-up wheel (Axle reinstall and ball joint replacement)? Please, not to be concerned about video (yet). B.