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Brew Master
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915 shift problem question (bushings are updated)
I'm having a slight problem when shifting from 5 to 4. I think I know what direction to go as this just started but I wanted to bounce this off the board before I tear in.
I get a slight grind from 5 to 4 like I'm bumping reverse but I know I'm out of the 5/R position when shifting. My coupler bushings are less than a year old. I think I have lost the tunnel bushing which seems odd since I replaced it last year when installing my short shifter. I notice when in gear I have what I think is a considerable amount of side to side play. I removed the rear tunnel cover and watched as I moved the shifter side to side in gear and noticed what I think is a lot of play. I'm going to inspect the tunnel bushing as I think it's gone. I'm curious how much fore and aft play should there be in the shift linkage when the car is in gear? I noticed while checking the side to side play that I have some fore and aft play in the input shaft going into the transmission. There is no movement in the shift coupler and it seems that there is none at the front cup at the bottom of the shifter lever. All of the fore and aft movement is at the input shaft from the transmission. I'm thinking while I have the cap open I might try to do a little adjustment of the shift coupler to see if I can get rid of some of the fore and aft play Update: The shift rod bushing in the tunnel was shot causing all the side to side play as I thought would be the case. I would still like to know if the fore and aft play is something I should address or if it's normal. Before I try to adjust the coupler, I'm going to go back through and make sure my clutch is adjusted properly. Thanks for any help or suggestions. Last edited by cabmandone; 08-04-2014 at 08:08 AM.. |
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Michigan
Posts: 14,093
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You can adjust the fore/aft play at the coupler. If its close now, mark the relationship between the shift rod and coupler joint. I would loosen the clamp on the joint just enough to move the shift rod.
I think based on what you posted you would want to move the rod backwards a bit. This in turn would make the fore/after movement of the actual shift lever towards the front of the shift housing. This may alleviate the "nicking" of reverse when you go to 4th from 5th.
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1981 911SC ROW SOLD - JULY 2015 Pacific Blue Wayne |
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ChicagoLand
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I had the same grind but after replacing my coupler. If you search there's a bunch on the board but it might boils down to proper adjustment of the coupler. Is the unit you have there now from Ed Mitchell "the coupler whisperer". I was suprised to see the difference between a new OEM coupler and one of his. I looked at them side by side. He makes a fantastic product and very helpful. Find him here on Pelican board.
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'84 Carrera (recently sold ![]() '67 MB 250SL A few Italian motorcycles ......and a minivan for the crew |
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Brew Master
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Quote:
The idea of moving the shift lever is something I'll try once I get the new tunnel bushing. Thanks for the ideas. |
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Brew Master
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Quote:
![]() Thanks for the suggestion. I'll play around with that idea when my new bushing is in. |
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Michigan
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In that case, you should expect to always "nick" the gears.
Cue the Andrew Dice Clay "OWH". j/k -hope you get it figured out.
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1981 911SC ROW SOLD - JULY 2015 Pacific Blue Wayne |
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I also have that problem but I think it's me. If you look at the housing of the shifter there is a spring loaded tab sticking out between the 5th and Reverse gear.
When you downshift from 5th to 4th that spring loaded tab is supposed to direct the shift lever a little to the left and down into 4th gear. Now if when shifting from 5th to 4th gear, you push the shift lever with too much force towards the right, you will push against this spring loaded tab, allowing the shift lever to align with reverse. It could be the spring is weak that could be the problem - I haven't investigated I am just more careful when I shift from 5th to 4th gear. Pull your shift lever cover off and you will see what I am talking about.
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SteveKJR Proud Owner of a 78 911 SC Targa "A Porsche does more then just go fast in a straight line" |
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Would it be worth comparing respective shifters?
Post a short video clip of their shifter play? Maybe with a few posts, we have a baseline to compare correct vs incorrect?
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1986 Bosch Icon Wipers coupe. |
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Brew Master
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I guess I never though of that. I'll see if I can take a decent video and post a link to youtube.
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Brew Master
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Just to update, I replaced the tunnel bushing and made a very slight adjustment on the shift coupler. I didn't want to take too big a swing at the coupler because my car shifted pretty easily except into 2. I didn't want to chance messing things up in the other gears so I made a very small adjustment, took it out and drove it and there was no more grinding from 5 to 4.
I didn't really play with the fore/aft movement while in gear. The back movement didn't really concern me because you're coming out of gear and I imagine you want some back play so as not to be too close to jumping out of gear on a slight bump. I suppose I could play around with the coupler a little more to get the forward play reduced but the car shifts well so I'll leave it alone. |
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: North Bay, ON
Posts: 472
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Check to make sure that the cone set screw that connects the coupler to the transmission rod is not coming loose. It has happened to my car and a friend's, and has similar symptoms.
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1986 3.2 to 3.4 conversion |
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Cab
Glad to hear you got the shift lever working properly.
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SteveKJR Proud Owner of a 78 911 SC Targa "A Porsche does more then just go fast in a straight line" |
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