As promised, here's some more info on my add-on lock system(s). The control box and actuator that I ended up using are from Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BKRPW1O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006QH9C5A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1412527732.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1412527763.jpg

I added red Locktite and allen head set screws for a compact, hopefully durable connection between acutuator and lock rod.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1412527873.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1412527984.jpg

Here's where I taped into the red and brown wires at the window switch for power and ground respectively.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1412528053.jpg

Anyway each side has $30 in parts, plus miscellaneous connectors, etc. I used a 1.5" x 11" x 1/16" aluminum bar to mount the actuator. The control box mounts in the door pocket below the handle, out of sight, using velcro so I can access it if needed, though I shouldn't need to.
Good luck to any who try this. It was pretty easy, but I have done many similar tasks before.
Dave

BTW I said I would describe how to make the power windows always hot. My car was apparently modified to this state in the past. You could easily do this by placing a jumper wire between the 30 and 87 terminals of the power window relay socket in the luggage compartment relay/fuse block. On my car it is relay #2 counting from the back. The fuse is #1 also counting from the back. You could also move the output wire from fuse #1 to fuse #3, which on my car is the headlight washer fuse, and appears to be always hot. I don't have a HL washer pump, but even if I did, it would be unlikely to be using it at the same time a window was being operated.
Again, good luck,
Dave

Thanks a ton for posting. Will be on my projects list this winter. Well done sir!

One control box works both door locks? I would think so, but you said there was $30 per door and the cost kinda add up as two control boxes.

Two control boxes. Each programmed to the same remote (plus a spare). Each mounted in a door pocket. No wires pulled into either door.
Dave

Thanks Dave. If I wanted to mount the control box under the hood and pull wires to each door actuator would one control box / remote allow each door lock to work individually or both at the same time.

At my controller's price point, it could control both door locks and flash your parking lights. I think there is also a trunk release output. For the $15 you don't get any sensor inputs or alarm features. Individual door lock control sounds unlikely for this unit.
Good luck,
Dave

Just ordered two of each item and will see what I can do.
Great information you provided...thanks

Just to be clear, you can flash the parking lights if you can run wires to them. If you mount the units in the door, you would need to pull wires into door cavity to flash any lights not in the door. I thought about adding an indicator light on the inside door trim, but didn't. If you are going to pull wires, you only need one unit, maybe mounted in the frunk, with door lock wires pulled into each door. I went the lazy person's route and mounted one unit and its actuator in each door and ran power off the window circuit.
Good luck,
Dave

I bought a set that acted like a true central locking system, it allowed for lock/unlock with the key (maybe if you lose the transmitter or the battery dies in it).....but required 4 wires. I got lucky, since I back dated my mirrors to '74 style manual mirrors, I used those wires.

Dave, this project rocks. Added to my must-do list.

I'll add a thought about always-hot power windows. I'm sure car companies have various reasons for cutting window power when the ignition is off-- among them the possibility to activate a window switch with an object in between the door and frame to easily gain access to the inside of a car. Of course no one expects windows to be powered up with the car locked so this may be a moot point, but I thought I'd mention it.

Thanks for the write-up and inspiration! SmileWavy

Good point. It will just be our little secret.
Thanks,
Dave

Programming two keyless entry systems to one remote:
For the brand I chose, call one box A and one box B. Use the two remotes from A. Open the box B by removing two screws. There is a learning push button inside. Apply 12+ and ground to the red and black wires respectively. Press the learning push button on box B. Within 20 seconds press any button on remote A. Repeat with the second identical remote A. You can now control both box A and box B with the two remotes that came with A. Keep the other two as spares.
It may be possible to learn other remotes, (two maximum), but these came with the units, they seem pretty nice, and they definitely work.
Good luck,
Dave

Has anyone experience of running new wires into the doors? All my door wiring is via a plug and so not extendable. Are there holes to be drilled?

I pulled new wires into each door when I had the car apart for a restoration. In my case the controller is in the frunk behind the fresh air box. I wired in the factory alarm that uses the door key. I never had the key so the system is activated when it sees half of the unarmed key resistance value. I think the unarmed resistance was 4.6K. I added another 4.6K in parallel to the contacts in the factory alarm module in the frunk the 4.6k resistor is switched in via a control from the keyless entry. I also wired in the alarm light feature and I used the unused light socket that is on the temp/pressure gauge. Other features I installed were parking lights flash when alarm/keyless entry is activated and deactivated, inside dome light/glove box light stay on for 30 seconds after door is closed allowing you to see the ignition key slot at night.

Don't get me wrong. Pat did this thing right. If I had my doors off, I would pull wires into them, and consider tapping into the factory alarm. My solution avoids the painful wire pull, at the cost of making the power windows act as a power source.
Just an option for some people.
Good luck,
Dave

If the controller in the drivers door has a switching output you could wire it to the key switch to control the alarm. I will have to verify what resistor value I wired in parallel to the resistor in the switch. As I said earlier I believe it was 4.6K and they are available at your local Radio Shack.

I just used one of the available holes by doubling up the cables. I can't remember which one I used. This is a picture of the door with the original wiring harnesses before I removed everything and striped it down to repaint. I can tell you that the only way to wire in the doors is to remove each fender so you can have access to the frame and door openings. there is no way to do it with the door and fender in place. If you remove the door you still have to feed the harness through the door while some one holds it close to the frame. In my opinion it is just easier to remove the fender that way it is only a one man job and you don't have to mess with the door alignment.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1412634036.jpg

Thanks, Pat. I think what I would need is a latched output. Two wires that are connected when the car is locked, and disconnected when it is unlocked. Some alarms have this kind of an output as a single lead that can control a relay. My simple control box does not really have this option, but a more sophisticated one surely would.
If I was pulling wires into the doors, I would probably just add a new complete alarm/keyless entry system, and ignore the factory one. I don't even know the status of my factory alarm system either.
I am glad you successfully used the factory alarm, and consider that a very elegant solution.
Thanks,
Dave

Yeah. Exactly my thinking.
Dave