Thanks Dave this is awesome!

I just purchased a pair on eBay I plan on doing the same thing

Hi guys,
Just a follow up. Locks are working great. Remotes are very nice. I decided to look through Amazon for an alarm system by the same Chinese company, and I found one. For $26 I ordered it and will play around with it. I think it will learn the same remotes I am now using, and will accept inputs from door switches, and trunk switch, and power a siren alarm. This will complete a decentralized alarm/keyless entry system for less than $100. I will post details if it all works out.
Thanks,
Dave

Dave.....great thread. I just got done installing my door lock actuators based on your information. Everything works great. FYI..... Magic930 also has a detailed thread on installing the door locks. I utilzed his information to activate the flashers for arming and disarming. You have to use diodes and connect to the #9&10 fuses. All detailed in his thread.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1416882788.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1416882818.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1416882838.jpg

I am also enjoying my remote locks. I neglected to notice that the alarm module I ordered above works on a different frequency than my door locks, so no add on security system so far. I guess I don't really need that. It's not like I park my car in sketchy places.
I am glad you guys have found success with the remote locking.
Thanks,
Dave

I am doing the opposite...removing my my power door lock system (1985 Targa). Is there a market then for the parts/system I remove? If so, are there critical parts that I need to insure that I remove and provide with the system?

Hi Mike,
I am sure there are people who need replacement parts for their existing factory systems. The mechanicals are probably very good. The aftermarket system assumes no factory provision at all, and adding the factory system to older cars may not worth the trouble.
Thanks,
Dave

Thanks for the feedback Dave.

Wired in the suggested controller in the passenger side and installed this auctuator Amazon.com: Universal Car Power Door Lock Actuator 12-Volt Motor (2 Pack): Automotive

I have power to the controller. And it will click either once or twice whether I select lock or unlock using the remotes. However it seems like there is no power going to the actuator. I put my 12v test light on the white and white/black wire and get nothing. The connections have been triple checked but still no joy. Anyone else run into this issue and how did they solve? Is there another way to test? I am totally stuck.

Have you connected the other central lock wires as shown in the two-wire door lock diagrams in the instructions? I the yellow and yellow/black go to +12V, and orange and orange/black go to ground.
Good luck,
Dave

Have you connected the other central lock wires as shown in the two-wire door lock diagrams in the instructions? I the yellow and yellow/black go to +12V, and orange and orange/black go to ground.
Good luck,
Dave

Thanks Dave. That part was totally unclear as to whether the actuator was a positive, negative or positive and negative trigger since it came with zero documentation. Now it makes sense. Did you connect the yellow and yellow/black to the red fused wire to the +12V before the fuse? I can't imagine leaving the positives unfused. I will tie all the grounds together with the black wire. (Hopefully my ignorance [and your answers] will help the future ignorant.)

Correct. Tie to fused 12 volt line. Instructions are indeed poor.
Dave

Dave thanks to you I have the passenger side operational. Need to tidy up the wires in the door pocket, but it locks and unlocks as promised. Next is the driver side and having the new box learn the remote code. Thanks for your help and patience.

Great. The learning switch is inside the control box, btw.
Dave

Update, if you are using two controllers, one per side, when you disconnect the battery, they lose their programming. This means you will need to take them apart and press the learn button and then any key on the remote to relearn. One didn't want to learn until I unplugged the unit from power.

Hi Rick,
I programmed mine on the bench, then disconnected it and installed in car. The programming was retained with no problem. Also,when shipped they have no power and retain their programming to the supplied remotes. I'm not sure what happened with yours, a voltage spike or something? I did mount my boxes in the armrest pocket with enough length to access the box and its inline fuse, so I could relearn if needed without too much trouble. Sorry you have that problem. I did not face that. The other thing you could do is put one of those 9 volt battery jumpers that they use to retain radio memory settings when replacing a battery. They have them that plug into a cigarette lighter (make sure lighter is on always hot circuit).
Good luck,
Dave

Dave, I followed your lead and installed the controllers in the door pockets with enough wire to pull them out for disassembly. Really don't know why neither side retained programming since one side had remote which came with it. The other side had different remotes so that was somewhat understandable. The 9v plugin is a great idea. Thanks again and have a great New Year. Rick