Add-on power door locks project
 

Hi guys,
My 84 does not have power door locks. What's more, the ignition switch was replaced by a previous owner, so I have one key for ignition and one for door locks. I came up with an idea for easy door lock install.
I bought two keyless entry systems on Amazon for $15 each. They are very nice, but very basic.
I programmed the remotes to operate both keyless units at once, also very easy.
I will run off the power window wiring in the door so no new wires need pulling.
I bought two door lock actuators for $10.
That means for $40 and some time tinkering, I should have dual keyless door locks.
I have prepped the keyless units and remotes, and will post pictures as I tear into the doors. There is always some kind of challenge in these projects, but we'll see how it works. It may have application for SC's and any earlier 911 with power windows.
Thanks,
Dave

Thanks, subscribed.

Regards,

mlfox

I have installed a keyless entry system on my 80SC but I ran a harness to each door to provide power and to control the actuators from the keyless module mounted in the frunk. I also wired the unit to activate/deactivate the factory alarm system when it is locked /unlocked. I also wired in several other features that came with the system.

I must ask you where do you plan to get the un-switched 12volts in the doors. I don't know how the 84 model year is wired but on the 80SC the windows are switched via the ignition switch to the power window relay coil in the frunk. The power window relay when activated provides battery voltage to fuse 21 in the frunk. Fuse 21 (25 amps) protects the power window circuits. The only way I can see you doing it would be to jumper across the power window relay contacts 30 and 87. This would defeat the purpose of the windows only being operated with the ignition on.

If you do jumper the relay then you would use the red wires to the power window switches for the +12 volts and the brown wires for chassis ground.

Hi.
My power windows are always hot. If yours are not it could easily be modified.
Dave

Thanks , Pat,
I have used your experience to formulate my plan. I don't see any problem with power window control with ignition off.
Dave

Well it seems they have changed the wiring of the power windows. I don't believe
I have ever owned a car where the power windows are hot all the time. In my 2010 Lexus the windows will work after the ignition is turned off and before the door is opened. Once opened they stop working until the ignition is turned on again. This is the same with my 2005 Dodge Dakota truck. My 97 Honda accord only works when ignition is on. I would guess the circuit is wired that way due to the amp draw on the battery. I would also guess that it is preferred to have the engine running.

That is not true on my '84, and a quick scan of the wiring diagrams seems to indicate that someone has modified your car's wiring if they are hot all the time.

Well anyway. If you have the ability to add these locks, you can probably move the window power to an always hot circuit. I don't need to, but I will post instructions at some point. The object is simplicity and avoidance of pulling new wires into the door cavity.
Dave

Now you've got me thinking I might have to put my central locking actuators back in the car and modify some wiring. I got tired of messing with my central lock and took the entire system out in favor of the good ol' key operated door latch.

As Arne pointed out, I think my car had the wiring modified so the windows are always powered. My guess is that the relay which provides power to the windows was bypassed for reasons of cost. I don't see any great downside EXCEPT SAFETY. If you have children with access to the car, power windows can be dangerous, especially if always powered. If that is an issue for you, don't go down this road.
Thanks,
Dave

Dave,

I think your solution for the actuator and wireless controllers in each door is a simplistic, cost effective and a good one. My comments were meant to provide my own experience and my thoughts on your project. pulling the relay and adding a jumper between 30 and 87 will not effect the electrical safety of the power window circuit and can be reversed if necessary. I would suggest adding another fuse rated for the window actuator on each door. That is if the amperage required is less than the 25 amp protection of the power window circuit. The keyless entry controller I have required a 15 amp fuse for the constant power circuit feeding the controller and the two actuators.

Thanks Pat,
The $15 keyless unit comes with a 15 amp fuse. I was not worried about electrical safety so much as a kid getting his head caught in a power window that has power at all times. That was the basis for my warning. I you just lock your car, the kids can't get in though. And now it's just the push of a button.
Here's my parts order:
Amazon.com: Universal Car Power Door Lock Actuator 12-Volt Motor (2 Pack): Automotive
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006QH9C5A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Dave

I have decided to evaluate other lock actuators, so I ordered a couple of alternatives. I will post other options later.
Dave

Dave: the relay that shuts off the power window circuit is triggered by the door switch that runs your overhead lights -- if your overhead lights aren't working, you could have a bad door switch (which would leave your window circuit active all the time) -- This also appears to cause a slow drain on the battery . . .

Thanks, and a good suggestion. My lights work fine. 84 does not have a light input, just a timer. Looking at the wiring diagram for my year, it looks like a time delay relay. I think mine was bypassed by whatever means. It would be extremely easy to make anybody's window hot at all times.
Dave

Another data point, my 82 windows are always hot. Pulled an alarm system a few months back, don't know if that is it or not.

Hi guys,
The door lock project is going well. I decided to perfect the system on the passenger door, so I could easily drive the car, even half apart. I went with a slightly more compact actuator, it is hidden behind the aluminum bar in center of the door. The list of additional tasks grew to include:
add moisture barrier
add sound proofing
lube all mechanisms
use washer fix for window rattle
make spacer for door speaker
align window frame and door for best closure
clean out debris and drain holes
tighten all fasteners
clean window switch with deoxit
and, of course, add door lock system

The lock controller is hanging now but will be mounted in door pocket beneath handle. And yes, my orange car was once red.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1412362377.jpg

Thanks,
Dave

Please keep posting as this would be a nice feature to have these days. Knowing which components work well is a big plus on any project.

If you can detail what you bought and the steps to install would be ideal. Thanks

I will definitely detail all the components I used, with pictures, when I do the driver's side. The actual lock system was extremely easy to do. BTW the lock works extremely well, and even has considerable range. I spent most of my time tweaking other in-door items. I will attack the driver's side starting Monday, and will provide more details.
Thanks for the interest.
Dave