Removing CIS - Engine in car. One problem? (so far)

[bobswei]

I'm removing the CIS from a '78 SC due to some air leaks and replacing anything rubber. I heard you can remove the CIS in one piece, with the engine still in the car. I removed all the intake runner nuts except two. How do you get to the two in front on passenger side? (photo). I can't even see them. It seems, you have to disassemble the CIS and remove in pieces, maybe?
Thanks for any ideas, or put me in the right direction.

[timmy2]

Remove the AAR from the #5 intake runner first and you will be able to see the #6 intake nuts. 6mm Allen for the AAR bolts iirc.
It is a real pain to get in there with multiple swivels. I usually use 1/4" sockets on that one.


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[timmy2]

A partial engine drop is very helpful to get the CIS unit out in one piece like you are trying to do.
Place a hydraulic Jack under the engine for support and loosen the 2 motor mount bolts and lower the engine a couple of inches. Makes a real difference.


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[bobswei]

Yes Dennis. That did it. I was able to get the two front intake nuts off (forward one had to reach around from the front. Not easy). So now, I almost have the thing off but it's hung up on a breather hose. And I know, there's a fuel line I haven't disconnected yet. But, the garage is getting too hot here in Northern CA so it's break time. I think, tomorrow after work, I'll drop the engine, like you said. Then wait for a cooler day.
Thanks for the input. Bob

[zevenbergena]

bobswei,
Please let me know how this goes/went- I'm in the same boat and I'll be digging in in a couple weeks.
Thanks,
Aaron

[gazzerr]

Subscribed. Interested to see how this goes. I want to change out my injector seals at some point.

[bobswei]

Yes, Aaron. It went great! Just took it in for smog the other day and it passed, after sitting for years. The things that help me most through the process was lowering the engine down. Just two bolts and a floor jack and it gave much more room to get at plugs and hoses in back of the FI. I mirror helped a little finding things. Removing the Fuel regulator on the left and the (something) regulator on the right (held in with allens) made access to nuts easier. Once it's all apart, look for cracks in the airbox. I thought for sure, mine didn't have any. But 35 year old plastic, had some brittle areas. The JB weld worked great after a good cleaning of the surfaces (if cracked). Motor oil on the injector seals when re-installing made them go in easy.
Those are all the main things that stand out in my mind. Plus the plywood jig I made, made things go together easier. Not an easy job but not impossible. Let me know if you get lost in it..... Bob