New PMO's in a CIS 3.0, Oil Fixes, and Engine Compartment Overhaul.

rennch · rennch's Garage

Title says most of it!

I've decided to go new/old school with the grey RSR.

The plan is to drop the motor, remove the stock CIS, fix ALL the oil leaks, clean, paint and upgrade anything I can "while I'm in there", and have it on the road and ready for the Oct. 31st Mexico tour by TRE.

All parts have been ordered from our host (Who knew seals, gaskets and nuts & bolts could run over $1400....?) and if I missed anything, It will be evaluated on Saturday when the engine is out. I'll remove the fan shroud and paint it, clean and paint all engine tin, send the distributor out to be recurved, clean and paint the firewall/engine compartment, clean up the wiring, replace all the seals I can, bolt it together, install it, and tow it over to Jae Lee at Mirage motorsports to hopefully make it all work.

In 22 days.

Wish me luck. I'll be leaning on you guys heavily.

Incidentally, I'll be selling my current CIS, which has been refurbished with all new seals and boots. Here's a video of it running this morning:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tCBBVgMGeRw

rennch · rennch's Garage

I really love this look...so this is where I'm going with it.

Tidybuoy · 10-09-2014, 03:52 PM

You might consider getting some Jay Nuts (or Kay Nuts) for the intakes. I found that the nuts supplied by PMO are almost impossible tighten on certain of the inside nuts. The lower manifold risers are fine but the section that sits on top of that is more difficult. The Jay Nuts fit an 8mm stud but have a 10mm hex vs. the 12mm hex supplied by PMO.

rennch · rennch's Garage

Where do I get those, Vern?

Tidybuoy · 10-09-2014, 04:56 PM

I got mine at a place called aircooled.net.
ACN Flanged Racing Intake and Exhaust Nut, 8 x 10mm, EACH - Aircooled.Net VW Parts

They worked perfect. I wish I could have found them in stainless but once these were installed, they looked perfect and worked perfect.

I bought a bag of 50 for around $25. Also, the ones at aircooled.net are not locking so you will need to use a wave washer. All the locking versions that I found on the net looked like galvanized and didn't look to great.

You can see them in this photo on the right side. I only needed to use them on the upper section of the PMO's.

merlinfe · 10-09-2014, 05:07 PM

I like where this is headed. Subscribed.

timmy2 · timmy2's Garage

Very ambitious project.
Ignore Vern's engine wiring harness. Unless you want one just like it.

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rennch · rennch's Garage

Uuuhhhhhh.....we should talk, Timmy.

I'd love to chat about that.

Quote:

Originally Posted by timmy2

Very ambitious project.
Ignore Vern's engine wiring harness. Unless you want one just like it.

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timmy2 · timmy2's Garage

Pm or email me.
I have the next 4 days off so I'm sure I could have one in the mail to you by Monday.

Edit: make that Tuesday, post office is closed Monday for Columbus Day.

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rennch · rennch's Garage

@timmy, message sent.

rfuerst911sc · 10-10-2014, 03:11 AM

Maybe I missed it but are you having the ignition distributor rebuilt/recurved to work with the PMO's ? It's been a while since I converted my 3.0 to PMO's but I believe Richard Parr states the ignition needs to be done to run correctly. He recommends Barry Hershon but Jerry Woods in Ca. does them also. I love my setup and I'm running stock internals, with proper cams and pistons she will really wake up. Good luck with your install.

Tidybuoy · 10-10-2014, 08:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by timmy2

Very ambitious project.
Ignore Vern's engine wiring harness. Unless you want one just like it.

I can confirm that the engine harness that Dennis (aka:Timmy2) made for me came out perfect. I wasn't planning on doing the engine harness initially but when I removed my fan and engine shroud, the original wires were very brittle and totally non-flexible. Dennis also made me a very nice fuel injection harness that is not shown in my photo. He also repaired the wiring on my rear fuse block and installed connection points for my electromotive engine management.

cornernfool · cornernfool's Garage

Tidybuoy, may I ask what the block is that all the vacuem lines are running to? Thanks, Mike.

rennch · rennch's Garage

Thanks for the info on Jerry Woods. I may try to get it sent out today. Calling them shortly.

Quote:

Originally Posted by rfuerst911sc

Maybe I missed it but are you having the ignition distributor rebuilt/recurved to work with the PMO's ? It's been a while since I converted my 3.0 to PMO's but I believe Richard Parr states the ignition needs to be done to run correctly. He recommends Barry Hershon but Jerry Woods in Ca. does them also. I love my setup and I'm running stock internals, with proper cams and pistons she will really wake up. Good luck with your install.

Tidybuoy · 10-10-2014, 10:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cornernfool

Tidybuoy, may I ask what the block is that all the vacuem lines are running to? Thanks, Mike.

That is for a map sensor. There are small vacuum ports at each throttle body that feed into that block, which is basically consolidating the vacuum. Then the total vacuum is coming out of the right side of that block and goes to a sensor that I have mounted directly right of the coils. It's mounted on the underside of the coils so you don't really see it well. That sensor connects to the electromotive computer that reads MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure).

I'm no expert so maybe someone else will chime in but I believe the MAP reading gives the computer a better understanding of the engine needs when under load conditions. I'm just learning this so I suspect it will be a year or so before I know what I'm talking about

rfuerst911sc · 10-10-2014, 12:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by emptyo

Thanks for the info on Jerry Woods. I may try to get it sent out today. Calling them shortly.

Just be ready for Porsche sticker shock

. I had two 3.0 SC ignition distributors rebuilt/recurved for carburetors. One by Barry Hershon the other by Jerry Woods. Both performed perfectly but both cost $500.00 !

rennch · rennch's Garage

Major progress today, and a small setback.

The brown Santa (UPS) arrived with half my Pelican order, and the used Wevo shifter and 915 housing I bought. Of course I thought, "well, the engine can wait a bit, let's see this shifter in the car!"

I had a weltmeister 901 short shifter in the car, with a 915 adapter plate. Pulled it off, bolted the WEVO up (who needs directions anyway?) and realized one of the fixed nuts on the shaft "L bracket" had become unfixed.

So here's my attempt at a JB weld fix:

Then, got to work on disconnecting everything, being very careful to tape, box, and label everything as it came off:

This time around, I'm trying to be very organized. Here's my "hack" for the 101 projects book, so I could check off my progress:

Tools organized:

On the jack stands:

And now buttoned up for the night:

Everything is disconnected except for the axles (I wasn't sure if it would roll very well) and the backup switch. Otherwise, good to go for a hopefully uneventful engine drop tomorrow morning at 9 am.

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Craig_D · Craig_D's Garage

I like the organized tools (you remember my bench).

You're going to really like the Wevo shifter I think. I love mine.

Great project man! I'm watching with interest.

...and would bring you a few Octoberfest beers if I were closer.

Cheers mate.

rennch · rennch's Garage

Can someone explain how this is supposed to be wired? Right now on this top sensor, it's very poorly soldered to the round tip at the top of the sensor.

It's obviously not the right way to do it. What is?

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timmy2 · timmy2's Garage

Someone used the earlier year oil pressure sender threaded stud ring to spade adapter on your later style sender. Without threads and a nut to hold it, they soldered it in place.

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