head studs - snap on tool use impact gun???

[carl74344]

I have map gas and the snap on tool. heat the place at the base of the stud then do I use air impact gun or breaker bar. I worry about breaking them. so what is the best way to do this? thanks carl

[Gordo2]

I used a 1/2" ratchet which let me feel when I had applied enough heat to liquefy the thread-lock.

Gordo

[walt]

I was able to use Mapp gas and a breaker bar. At first I was a bit concerned the Mapp gas wouldn't generate enough heat.

Walt

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by carl74344

I have map gas and the snap on tool. heat the place at the base of the stud then do I use air impact gun or breaker bar. I worry about breaking them. so what is the best way to do this? thanks carl

I have removed dozens of dilavar cylinder head studs using the Snap-On stud stud remover and an impact wrench (@ medium setting) without heat. Learned this trick from Tom Butler and only apply heat when it won't come off. I have not broken one dilavar stud using the impact wrench but broke one stud using a breaker bar.

Use heat only as needed. Most of these lower head studs removal could be done between 30 to 60 mins. Heat application surely makes the removal easier and quicker. I usually remove them unheated and those that were stubborn were heated to melt the thread adhesive. Keep us posted.

Tony

[carl74344]

guys thanks a lot. I will try the impact with heat. next weekend I hope to get the studs out so I can start my rebuild. again thanks as always great help......carl

[carl74344]

well I did it. I used heat with a MAP torch and the snap-on tool. it went real well. it was easy. I broke one but was long enough to use the other tool I have. the one I broke was one that would have broken driving a few more miles.

I have been dreading doing this for a while. I just took my time. anyone dreading this should not. really was not bad. I think the key was heat and the right tool. just take your time.

NOW ON TO RE-BUILDING. I AM SO READY. thanks everyone for the help. hope the re-build goes as well.......carl

[911pcars]

Suggestion: Apply heat to the stud only to melt the locking sealant. Let the stud cool down before applying torque to it. If heated hot enough, rotating the stud may distort it in the heated area.

Alternately, heat the cyl. head area around the stud, not the stud itself, then immediately apply Kroil or equivalent to help create a solvent entry path between the two threads.

Sherwood

[carl74344]

thanks where were you a week ago... got them all out. really it was not as hard as I thought it would be. I do believe heat is the key. now on to re-build....carl

[Brown747]

Be sure and clean out the old thread lock before installing new studs. I used a 10mmX1.5 bolt that I Dremeled 4 grooves in. Or you could use a bottoming tap. Do not use a cutting tap. Cheers,

Thor

[al lkosmal]

I've removed quite a few head studs, using a snap-on stud remover, heat and a breaker bar. Heat is your friend. Apply heat where the stud enters the case for a minute or two and they come out without much fuss. I have yet to break one.

regards,
Al

[carl74344]

using a bolt to make a thread chaser is a really good idea. I was going to use one of the old studs but would have to use two nuts. the bolt is much better. that is what is so great about this forum ideas everywhere. did you use a stainless steel bolt?


ps brown 747 great pictures thanks....carl

[Brown747]

Just used a regular grade 8.

regards, Thor

[blair11]

Originally Posted by boyt911sc

I have removed dozens of dilavar cylinder head studs using the Snap-On stud stud remover and an impact wrench (@ medium setting) without heat. Learned this trick from Tom Butler and only apply heat when it won't come off. I have not broken one dilavar stud using the impact wrench but broke one stud using a breaker bar.

Use heat only as needed. Most of these lower head studs removal could be done between 30 to 60 mins. Heat application surely makes the removal easier and quicker. I usually remove them unheated and those that were stubborn were heated to melt the thread adhesive. Keep us posted.

Tony

I am about to do this with the snap on tool but my question is if I need to use heat, (propane) how much time do you try to heat the area, 2 minutes, 5 minutes? I worry about the low melting temperature of the aluminum block.

Thanks!

[john walker's workshop]

Put the collet tool on the stud and see if it will turn. If it moves a bit, use the impact wrench. Otherwise best to heat the case, not the stud until you get some movement, then impact it.

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by blair11

I am about to do this with the snap on tool but my question is if I need to use heat, (propane) how much time do you try to heat the area, 2 minutes, 5 minutes? I worry about the low melting temperature of the aluminum block.

Thanks!

Blair,

The propane blow torch does not produce too much heat to overheat the aluminum crankcase. Use Mapp gas for more heat application. Concentrate the heat to the area around hole on the crankcase for each cylinder head stud. The goal is to melt the thread lock adhesive to loosen the stud/s. Snap-on stud remover combined with an pneumatic impact wrench does the work for me and I seldom use heat. Start with a medium setting for the impact wrench then go to high torque as needed. I average about 4~5 mins. a stud compared to 1 hour per stud 20 years ago using vise grips.

Tony

[mepstein]

Map gas for 2-3 minutes on the aluminum or mag around the stud and then the snap on tool and a wrench. It should come out easily. if its tough, another minute of heat. Don't worry, you wont melt the case. Often, we have two guys, one wrenching while one heats the next stud. I also wear a pair of heavy leather gloves because you will always touch something hot if you have bare hands.