First time height & alignment project - help wanted :)

[Driven97]

Three completely separate notes:

1) Did you measure the angles of the spring plates with an inclinometer? If the car is jacked up level, it should be a pretty reliable way to get close. What torsion bars do you have? If they're soft ones, you'll have to take out that bottom bolt and spacer on the spring plate cover to get it to full droop.

2) Another note: getting the plates looking even is not going to be the trick if you're a spline off on the torsion bar. IIRC, the spline counts are different on each side so that you can fine tune. I don't think early cars even had adjustable spring plates.

3) Do you have the spring plate unbolted from the trailing arm while you do this? If it's loaded with spring force, you'll have a hard time. Also, did you try going the other way with the cam adjuster? Sometimes one way gives you a little better leverage than the other.

[Discseven]

Driven... TY for Qs and input. Replies inserted below:

Originally Posted by Driven97

Three completely separate notes:

1) Did you measure the angles of the spring plates with an inclinometer?

No

If the car is jacked up level, it should be a pretty reliable way to get close. What torsion bars do you have?

Don't know. Good possibility they are stock.

If they're soft ones, you'll have to take out that bottom bolt and spacer on the spring plate cover to get it to full droop.

"That bottom bolt" ...not sure which bottom you're referring to. And when I said "raise the right spring plate," I realize that may be confusing. For clarity, the goal is to raise the ride height on the right side slightly---so not looking for more droop on that side. Actually less droop.

2) Another note: getting the plates looking even is not going to be the trick if you're a spline off on the torsion bar. IIRC, the spline counts are different on each side so that you can fine tune. I don't think early cars even had adjustable spring plates.

Wanted to avoid messing with torsion bars. Car is '80.

3) Do you have the spring plate unbolted from the trailing arm while you do this?

No. Only sway bar is disconnected.

If it's loaded with spring force, you'll have a hard time. Also, did you try going the other way with the cam adjuster? Sometimes one way gives you a little better leverage than the other.

No. Did not touch cam adjustment.

[Driven97]

By cam I meant the eccentric adjuster.

I think to do it right you might have to get a little deeper. I'm thinking you can't turn the cam because of the tension on there. The bottom rear bolt on each spring plate cover should come out. That will let the little spacer come out.

You may be able to get away with just undoing the rear shock, or you may have to unbolt the spring plate from the trailing arm to let all the tension off. Note if you unbolt it from the arm, you'll lose your rear alignment settings.

Once you get there, you should be able to use the spring plate calculator to find the right spring plate angle. Set them to what the calculator says, and your height should come out perfect. It was spot on for my car.

[Discseven]

Originally Posted by Driven97

By cam I meant the eccentric adjuster.

I think to do it right you might have to get a little deeper. I'm thinking you can't turn the cam because of the tension on there. The bottom rear bolt on each spring plate cover should come out. That will let the little spacer come out.

You may be able to get away with just undoing the rear shock, or you may have to unbolt the spring plate from the trailing arm to let all the tension off. Note if you unbolt it from the arm, you'll lose your rear alignment settings.

Once you get there, you should be able to use the spring plate calculator to find the right spring plate angle. Set them to what the calculator says, and your height should come out perfect. It was spot on for my car.

I see what you mean... this bolt & spacer. Will get into this after breakfast. TY for input Matt.

[Driven97]

This may be obvious but don't forget to jack up the end of the suspension so that the spring plate is not touching that sleeve before you pull the bolt. There can be a lot of potential energy there.

[Bob930slant]

hey discseven

the wrench was cut out of a sheet of 18 gauge sheet with a standard jigsaw. the bulk of the grinding was with a bench grinder to ensure it was kept square. last was a shot of tremclad flat black paint.

[Discseven]

Originally Posted by Driven97

This may be obvious but don't forget to jack up the end of the suspension so that the spring plate is not touching that sleeve before you pull the bolt. There can be a lot of potential energy there.

TY for note Matt! Am attending this today.

[Discseven]

Originally Posted by Bob930slant

hey discseven

the wrench was cut out of a sheet of 18 gauge sheet with a standard jigsaw. the bulk of the grinding was with a bench grinder to ensure it was kept square. last was a shot of tremclad flat black paint.

DAMM NICE work Bob. Special compliments on inside radius corners.

[Discseven]

Originally Posted by Driven97

By cam I meant the eccentric adjuster.

I think to do it right you might have to get a little deeper. I'm thinking you can't turn the cam because of the tension on there. The bottom rear bolt on each spring plate cover should come out. That will let the little spacer come out.

You may be able to get away with just undoing the rear shock, or you may have to unbolt the spring plate from the trailing arm to let all the tension off. Note if you unbolt it from the arm, you'll lose your rear alignment settings.

Once you get there, you should be able to use the spring plate calculator to find the right spring plate angle. Set them to what the calculator says, and your height should come out perfect. It was spot on for my car.

Matt... Shocks did prevent rear end from dropping all the way. Also removed bottom bolt and spacer as you suggested. Not sure if it was necessary but also disconnected sway. Then rear drops all the way with no tension and able to adjust spring plate. TY for input.





Don't have angle calculator. Am going to eyeball it. Believe rake spec is 2 degrees---will have to check.

[Driven97]

Cool, glad that helped. You can probably snag a free app that turns your smartphone into an inclinometer.

Looks like the Will Ferch spring plate calculator is down right now, maybe someone has a copy up.

[Discseven]

Originally Posted by Driven97

Cool, glad that helped. You can probably snag a free app that turns your smartphone into an inclinometer.

Looks like the Will Ferch spring plate calculator is down right now, maybe someone has a copy up.

Just occurred to stupidme... I can make incline measure. Am I correct in thinking measure is with spring plates fully loaded?

Corner balance. Know CB is a scale measure at corners but wondering if... spring plates are at matching incline, and same point on front A frames are same measure to level ground... for DIY CB without scales this would seem to do the job. Or am I missing something?

[Bob930slant]

for reference. I just adjusted my rear height via the adjuster bolt.

step 1) lift rear (both side and support of stands)
step 2) disconnect rear sway bar
step 3 loosen first bolt near torsion bar 24mm nut front and 24mm bolt head on back. this is only loose.
step 4) loosen eccentric nut 24mm front and 36mm rear.

to adjust the height at this point simply turn the eccentric nut by the 36mm end and the adjuster will move up and down the full range or approx 25mm