88' 911 Engine and Transmission Drop but they will not part company

Steve Baker · 10-13-2002, 07:55 PM

1988 911 Engine Drop: Transmission and engine don't want to part company.
Hopefully someone has run into this problem, already, and has a suggestion or solution. I am dropping my engine to replace an exploded rubber center clutch. I decided after careful inspection to pull both the engine and transmission together. Everything came out fine, however, once out of the car, my buddy and I couldn't get the transmission to move more than 1/2" away from the engine case.
The only thing he and I could come up with is that the rubber from the destroyed center disk must have gooed up the transmission shaft and now the disk, pressure plate and throwout are not sliding freely on the shaft. The case bolts are not stuck, as the transmission case moves on them about 1/2 inch. So, do we carefully wedge something between the two cases, working around and hopefully inching it off? He and I tried using sheer muscle force, I weigh 188 and he 280, both pulling and twisting and the result 1/2".
I welcome any ideas or someones experience with this problem.

marcesq · marcesq's Garage

Did you release the clutch fork?? There is a shaft that goes through the top of the bell housing held in place by a 10mm bolt (I think). Pull the bolt and then the shaft and you will be free.

Use duct tape to hold the fork in position when reinstalling, removing it as the shaft is inserted.

Not sure whether your year need the updated fork bearing/bushing, so I would check unless you know the answer.

Good luck.

HawgRyder · HawgRyder's Garage

The remains of the clutch disc has seized onto the input shaft of the trans.
The centre of the disc will have jammed on the spline.
Only recourse is to pry them apart.
You may damage the input shaft....and the clutch and pressure plate are toast....but you have to part them to fix everything.
Bob

Bobboloo · Bobboloo's Garage

It's sounds like the rubber only let's you move a little bit at a time.

You might try spraying in alot of WD-40 and letting it sit overnite. At least its worth a try.

Jim Smolka · 10-14-2002, 03:29 AM

Steve,

I have written a tech article for Wayne on replacing the clutch on a G50 911 (I don't think it has been posted yet..). Email me if you would like a copy.

Also, do you have the Bently manual??? Strongly recommended.

Rick Lee · Rick Lee's Garage

I'm with Marc. We had exactly the same issue on my G50 and it came apart as soon as we realized the fork shaft was in there.

Steve Baker · 10-14-2002, 08:06 AM

Ok,Thanks to all,
Richard and Marc, you may have something. We removed the slave cylinder which let the clutch fork move forward. Thinking this was binding us up, I found an old steering wheel puller(circa 1970 hotrod days) and it fit perfectly where the slave cylinder mounted. Using this we were able to move the fork back and forth; thinking that there may be a neutral spot, but no.
If I understand you both corrrectly, there is a bolt or shaft perhaps on the right handside (sorry not able to go out there and check right now)that I can access, remove that shaft and the fork will move freely?

Rick Lee · Rick Lee's Garage

I sure hope you removed the slave cylinder BEFORE you dropped the engine and tranny. The shaft goes in from the driver's side. Since you'll be replacing it, just tear it out with some pliers or vice grips or maybe use a flat tip screwdriver to wedge it out a little bit first. The the fork will then be loose or may just fall off the throw-out bearing and the tranny will come right off. I'm assuming you're gonna do the G50 fork update and have a new one.

marcesq · marcesq's Garage

Yep . . . thats the one. The fork will drop harmlessly on the TOB.

Have fun!!

Edit: Dam Richard types fast

Steve Baker · 10-14-2002, 08:19 AM

Well, the answers are coming in. What do you think of this solution, if removing the throwout leaver doesn't work. This friend races sprint cars and modified stock cars. He says that sometimes when replacing their clutches they have to heat things up a bit. He suggests removing the plugs, placing a heat gun through one of the openings and then after letting it heat up, turning the engine over and pulling or prying the two apart.

Ok, after I get Jim's article and then try Marc and Richard's suggestion. If all else fails, heat?
I will keep you all posted. Thanks again to all who responded.

Rick Lee · Rick Lee's Garage

There is no reason to use heat here. That stuff doesn't get rusty and there are no threads. Just undo the screw or bolt on the driver's side of the shaft and yank it out. Mine was about as shot with embedded needle bearings as it gets, and it came out with no problem. I don't think heat will hurt anything there, but I don't think it will help you either. Got a digital camera? Post a picture. I can't imagine why you're having this problem, so I'd like to see if we're all on the same page here.

JB · 10-14-2002, 08:36 AM

Steve, I haven't been on the forum for quite some time but happened to see your post today. I replaced a clutch on a '89 two weekends ago and had the same problem you encountered. You have to remove the clutch fork pivot shaft to separate the transmission from the bell housing. On the left hand side of the transmission bell housing (looking towards the front of the car) there is a little tab held in place by a bolt. Remove the bolt. This is the retainer for the clutch fork pivot shaft. You need a slide hammer with (i believe) a 6mm bolt attachment to remove it. I had to fabricate an attachment for my slide hammer to get it out but it worked perfectly. thread the slide hammer bolt into the threaded hole in the pivot shaft and use the slide hammer to "pull" out the shaft. The fork falls free and the transmission can then be slid back and lifted free. You need to replace the needle bearings and the pivot shaft. Zimms sells a kit that has all the required components. The needle bearings are replaced with brass bushings. Good luck! JB

Steve Baker · 10-14-2002, 09:09 AM

Ok I went out and yes, I found it. I don't know why I didn't try that yesterday. I have enclosed a photo, sorry of the focus, but I was in a hurry. So I remove the bolt that is now released, and pull away the keeper. Next get a slide hammer and a 6mm bolt. Ok, and thanks, Richard, JB, Marc and all.

Rick Lee · Rick Lee's Garage

Yes, that's it! So is it done? It should take no more than 10 sec. Just yank the damn thing out and separate the tranny and engine. What's this slide hammer $hit? You don't need a drift, you don't anything fancy. Just yank it out and then get back to drinking beer.