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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 604
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Hi,
So after pulling and installing my 930 engine for the first time, I find that I somehow incorrectly aligned the throwout bearing (TOB) and clutch fork and so the clutch is not operating. I'm pretty sure that the only cure is to pull the engine back out to get at the TOB. ![]() Does anyone have advice on an expedient way to solve this problem? The engine mount bolts and axle bolts are torqued down, but not much else is done. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! -Juan
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www.ArtOfRoadRacing.com, Thunderhill, 30 Jan 2011 ArtOfRoadRacing@gmail.com SM #34, '04 GT3, '73 911s, '70 911 2.7L PRC Toyo Spec #11 |
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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: VA
Posts: 591
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I don’t think you have an option on separating & then re-installing the transmission. If you can actually bolt the trans & motor together there must be something seriously wrong with the through out bearing/fork. Usually, if it were just a problem w/ alignment you would not be able to “mate” the trans to the motor.
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Marysville Wa.
Posts: 22,431
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the turbos are a little trickier lining up the fork onto the t/o bearing. the bearing has two ears, with flat spots behind them, and as the fork starts to engage the bearing, it tends to rotate the bearing out of position so it misses the ears. you have to go slow and check your progress thru the hole on top of the bellhousing. i remember that i did that back in the 70's when i worked at the dealer. my first 930 engine R+R quickly turned into my 2nd.
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https://www.instagram.com/johnwalker8704 8009 103rd pl ne Marysville Wa 98270 206 637 4071 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Lacey, WA. USA
Posts: 25,310
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My first 915 R&R resulted in my second as well, for this same reason. In fact, since the forks were between the TOB and the bellousing, and since the forks pull the TOB, by trying to operate my clutch I jammed the forks into the bellhousing, bending one of the forks. So, a new fork was needed.
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Man of Carbon Fiber (stronger than steel) Mocha 1978 911SC. "Coco" |
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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 604
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Hi,
> The turbos are a little trickier lining up the > fork onto the t/o bearing. the bearing has two > ears, with flat spots behind them, and as the > fork starts to engage the bearing, it tends to > rotate the bearing out of position so it misses > the ears. you have to go slow and check your > progress thru the hole on top of the > bellhousing. i remember that i did that back in > the 70's when i worked at the dealer. my first > 930 engine R+R quickly turned into my 2nd. So is there any chance that I didn't damage anything? I can see through the inspection hole on top (with mirror) that the ear is off to the side of the top finger by a little. But I can still rotate the fork by hand, and it looks like the top finger on the fork will rotate down to touch the hub of the throwout bearing. I did unknowingly wail on the fork a bit when I was trying to adjust the clutch before I figured out that the TOB was not engaged. I think the fork must have hit against the bell housing while I pushed on the pedal. Don't know if that could bend the fork. -Juan
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www.ArtOfRoadRacing.com, Thunderhill, 30 Jan 2011 ArtOfRoadRacing@gmail.com SM #34, '04 GT3, '73 911s, '70 911 2.7L PRC Toyo Spec #11 |
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Marysville Wa.
Posts: 22,431
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i doubt that the fork is damaged.
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https://www.instagram.com/johnwalker8704 8009 103rd pl ne Marysville Wa 98270 206 637 4071 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Lacey, WA. USA
Posts: 25,310
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Well, I sure damaged mine, but I had to work on it a bit to do that. I think I kept adjusting the clutch cable tighter and tighter, which is what cause the fork to contact the bellhousing. If you didn't do this, then it sounds like JW thinks your fork survived.
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Man of Carbon Fiber (stronger than steel) Mocha 1978 911SC. "Coco" |
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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 604
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Hi Superman,
> Well, I sure damaged mine, but I had to work on > it a bit to do that. I think I kept adjusting > the clutch cable tighter and tighter, which is > what cause the fork to contact the bellhousing. I'm curious how your fork was damaged. Can you elaborate? I'm pretty sure that my fork contacted the bell housing while I was pushing on the clutch pedal. I positioned the fork actuating lever on a spline so that the clutch cable was tight, so (in retrospect) pushing on the clutch pedal would force the fork against the bell housing. I pushed on the clutch maybe 10 times in the process of trying to figure out what was happening. I think I put at most 100 lbs of presure against the clutch pedal. I didn't feel anything give in the process, or feel like anything moved in the assembly -- all movement felt elastic. I'm pretty sure that the act of mating the transission with the fork disengaged would not damage the fork or TOB because the ears are such that they can fit between fingers on the fork. -Juan
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www.ArtOfRoadRacing.com, Thunderhill, 30 Jan 2011 ArtOfRoadRacing@gmail.com SM #34, '04 GT3, '73 911s, '70 911 2.7L PRC Toyo Spec #11 |
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