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How to access the cigarette lighter wire
I need to tap into a 12V switched source for a gauge I'm installing, and thought the cigarette lighter power source would be a good one. However, I can't figure out how to get to the wire. Can't access from the radio hole, or from the glove box. Do I need to take out the dashboard to reach it? (in which case I will look for some other source).
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81 -930 82 - Austin Mini 998 78 Mini 1275cc -totaled 83SC Euro w/77 3.0 Carerra Eng.--sold Several other daily drivers not worth mentioning... |
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from the trunk bulkhead
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Wer bremst verliert
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It may be easier for you to just tap into the B+ already provided to your other gauges. Just pull your clock or speedo out, on the back is a B+ terminal. Us a piggyback terminal or cut-and-recrimp with your wire and you are done. Easier to reach than the cig lighter and fused properly for gauge-levels of draw.
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2007 911 Turbo - Not a toy 1985 911 Cab - Wife's toy 1982 911 3.2 Indiash Rot Track Supercharged track toy 1978 911 3.0 Lichtbau toy "Gretchen" 1971 911 Targa S backroad toy |
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let me add a little...
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Depending on where you are putting the gauge, you could also go off of the ac blower switch...
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Yes, it is in there deep...here is a shot with all the blower and ducting removed:
![]() That is the clock to the right...can your hand fit through there? |
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![]() you can see it here. i dont have ac . i dont know if that makes a difference removing the airbox in front.
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Eng-o-neer
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Many easier wires to tap. Make sure you fuse the new wire if it is smaller than the wire you're tapping from.
If your dash lights don't have a fuse (they don't from the factory), it might be a good time to install one. I think 3A is what you want. 5A would probably work, but I'd have to double-check the gauge of the wire. |
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Quote:
Good idea. Seems a lot easier than going the cig lighter. tks
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I'm at this point - what are the next steps to get the blower out to access the cigarette socket?
Car = 89 3.2 coupe with AC. Thanks. Other question: - does PP have the new gasket that goes behind the grill at the back of the frunk lid? ![]()
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Quote:
![]() 2. PN is 901 571 325 32
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Thanks, I got it all out now and can access the back of the cig. socket. The "pin" came out of the back of the socket, that's why no juice. Now how to "unscrew" ? to get the socket out? I assume the two ground tab "ring" is the item that holds everything together. How do I get that ring off? What a bunch of hose and crap to dig through....to get to it.
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Some reading on Rennlist indicates the socket may need to be destroyed to get it out of the dash. I'll wait a bit to see if anyone chimes in from here (PP). Thanks in advance.
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This youtube is interesting.. It looks like what I have.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=APZUlgqFsjo
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Looks like there are two parts.
The part you see from the back is all one piece so it seems to unscrew the two pieces you must hole the part inside the car while unscrewing the part in the frunk. Note the two screw together to squeeze the dash using the thread shown. Part that is inside... Part that is in the frunk...
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Ok - I got it out.
I was able to reach both inside the car and in the frunk at the same time. If you are about 6' you should be able to reach both. It didn't take much to hold the inside piece while unscrewing the frunk piece. Here is what it looks like. Now will work on a fix.... will look at the Dr. Bulczynski ideas. ![]()
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youtube saves the day.....again
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For those that like a bit more detail on this DIY....
The push fit pin connection for the cigarette lighter is not very solid. I wanted to invent a better way to make a solid connection to the center contact and the supply wire. I thought to internal tap the center "hole" and then use a screw to hold some sort of terminal to item 6. You can see my threading attempt on item 6. During an attempt to thread item 6 and backing out the M4x0.7mm tap the whole assembly came apart with many items in typical German fashion (see picture below). Item 1 measures very close to M3.5x0.6mm but is a bit under the minimum diameter. It is not close to any other metric thread spec. I found so I assume it is M3.6x0.6. The pitch is right on 0.6mm using my thread gauge. I want to think of a good way to make a good (better) connection other than using my M4x0.7 tapped thread in item 6. One idea is to get a M3.5x0.6 tap and make a standoff with M3.5x0.6 on one end and M4x0.7 on the other and get a solid M4 threaded stud coming out the end of item 7. This part would replace item 6. Then I can use jamb nuts to clamp a terminal on the stud in some manner so that the outer shell can screw in from the frunk. Any ideas are welcome. ![]()
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The M4 x 0.7m pitch thread I put in seems pretty solid. Here is a picture with the protective sleeve removed. I'll probably go with this approach after buying a longer M4x0.7 screw so I have more to work with while standing on my head in the frunk putting the hot lead on.
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Thanks, I'll probably get one of those also.
I was trying to describe the gasket just behind the inlet grill. The screen is held on by the frame but just under the screen is a thin gasket made of what seems like cloth.
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