Trouble With Installing B&B Headers

[JTL]

I bought a lightly used set of b&b 2in/2out headers with heat and muffler. The setup included everything except 12 nuts and washers for bolting the headers to the engine.

I bought some 13 mm nuts and washers thinking this was an easy job. However, those and my 13 mm spanner aren't working too well. I managed to get 9 washers and nuts on but can't seem to get the remaining 3 as there is no space to work with.

I looked on the b&b website for help. They offer an installation kit with nuts bolts and tool for $700 -

I would really appreciate some advice on what to do with this. What hardware and tools are best to get this job done? Thanks!

[gtc]

I used the copper plated lock nuts that pelican sells, no washers, and a flex-head gear wrench like this:


Edit:
I don't see the copper plated nuts in Pelican's catalog anymore... hmm...

[KTL]

There is a fancy crooked wrench that looks very similar to the wrench used for SSI installation.

WTB: 13mm Wrench for SSI

If you get a crowsfoot wrench, that may help you out a bit. Or a stubby/short box end wrench and you just have to tighten it one 1/8 turn at a time. Also consider getting a socket with a built in universal joint.

Lastly, maybe get some special flange nuts. They have much smaller hex size and will let you use an even smaller socket or wrench. These are 10mm hex ACN Flanged Racing Intake and Exhaust Nut, 8 x 10mm, EACH - Aircooled.Net VW Parts

Despite what you see here on the forums regarding lock nuts, I would not recommend using a lock nut. You want the nuts to thread onto the studs as easily as possible. No worries about coming loose. Exhaust nuts just don't seem to come loose on these engines!

[Ayles]

I have the B&B Tool.

Happy to loan it to you. Just shoot me a pm. Ill snap a pic when I get home just to make sure its similar to the other pics above.

[Quicksilver]

First off make your life much MUCH easier, especially in the future: Get a set of copper plated locknuts for the exhaust. (Hillco is close to me...) The 8mm copper plated nuts use a 12mm wrench which will make the clearances a bit larger so you can get a wrench in there.
And when it comes time to remove them you have a MUCH better chance of removing them without breaking a stud. (Use copper based antiseize! The aluminum based antiseize is junk.)

For the installation wrench go to Sears and get a box end offset wrench that has 12mm on one side and cut it in half with a cutoff wheel. For some of the nuts you can start them by hand and then use a small 1/4" drive where it will fit. Some of those wobbly extensions with a bondhus type ball end will help too.

[Gordo2]

I used a combination of wrenches - to include a combination wrench.

Swivel socket worked best for some - combo others.

Gordo

[JTL]

Many Thanks for all the replies. Wow Kevin, that b&b wrench/tool looks impressive?! How are you doing btw?
The flanged 13mm nuts from Aircooled. com and a 10mm flex head gear wrench sounds like a pretty good way to go.

Ayles, thanks for the offer. I may take you up on your offer if the above doesn't work.

[Ayles]

Here is the tool that came in my box of B&B parts.

[KTL]

B&B install kit for $700............ holy crap that's criminal.

Doing well thanks JT. How's that Weltmeister sway bar working out for you?

[Quicksilver]

Originally Posted by KTL

B&B install kit for $700............ holy crap that's criminal.

. . .

Almost as criminal as the "engineering" that goes into the B&B system! There are so many details that are badly thought out in the B&B headers. And they didn't improve them as time went on.
(They do have the tube length that I wanted...)

If I had to pay full retail I'd go with the RarlyL8 exhaust. Everything nicely thought out. (Would still like longer primaries and I am WAY too cheap to pay retail!)

[KTL]

I agree. If they'd simply gusset their muffler mounting bracket they probably could have avoided years and years of cracked mufflers. Instead what do they do? They put the gussets on the muffler itself......

If you want the Rarly headers used, I have a fella who's getting ready to unload his. I can put you in touch with him.

[JTL]

Kevin,
The wm bars are good. Also decided to put in the wevo rear mounts. Sadly though, I haven't had many track days during the past few years; kids, work etc. But at least here in the Carolinas I don't have to park the car for winter.
No doubt about the Rarly headers but I landed a nice deal on a nearly new b&b system. We'll see how it holds up.

[cabmandone]

By chance did you get the oil return tube for the B&B system? My brother (Gordo2) and I got his engine installed then found out the clearance to one of the oil return tubes was too close and would have melted the rubber return line.

[KTL]

I think you mean the metal oil tank "S hose" that B&B provides for connecting the oil tank to the engine? The original rubber hose works OK if you cover it with fiberglass sheathing. I always felt that the sharp bends in the B&B metal line are a bit restrictive. Granted the oil line is a suction line. But you still want it to flow well?

[cabmandone]

Originally Posted by KTL

I think you mean the metal oil tank "S hose" that B&B provides for connecting the oil tank to the engine? The original rubber hose works OK if you cover it with fiberglass sheathing. I always felt that the sharp bends in the B&B metal line are a bit restrictive. Granted the oil line is a suction line. But you still want it to flow well?

Yep, that's the line. We weren't comfortable just wrapping the existing line. The metal tube didn't look all that restrictive to me. It did look pretty half assed though. When I saw what it was I asked my brother "are you kidding?"

[Mike80911]

Call Mike Boat at B&B great guy very helpful he will give you a break on the install kit

[Quicksilver]

Originally Posted by cabmando

Yep, that's the line. We weren't comfortable just wrapping the existing line. The metal tube didn't look all that restrictive to me. It did look pretty half assed though. When I saw what it was I asked my brother "are you kidding?"

To solve this I shortened the 90° leg at the tank as far as I was comfortable with, and then wrapped the headers. I've got over 50K miles with it setup that way and the rubber is still fine.

[JTL]

Yes, the parts included a metal 's-hose'. I took this opportunity to replace the oil return tubes and the 2 PS oil lines going to the thermostat.
I bought a 13mm flexible ratched wrench over the weekend and tried to use it to remove the 13mm nuts and washers. No go; the ratched end was too big for the task. However, I happened to have a 13mm offset box end wrench which worked perfectly. Looks like this is the correct tool for the job. Now I'm just waiting for the Aircooled.com exhaust nuts to show up. Can't wait to bag this job and drive my car again!

[JTL]

The exhaust nuts from Aircooled.net arrived yesterday. They were much easier to install then the 13mm nuts because of the extra clearance. The 10mm spanner was also smaller in size although I did have to modify it a bit to tighten the #2 cylinder outboard nut. Thanks for all the help!