Goodbye crusty old fusebox, hello Fred Cook!

[evan9eleven]

So a quick search on "fusebox replacement" "ATO fusebox" or "Fred Cook" will turn up a bunch of threads on replacing the old fuse panel. So why a new thread? I thought I'd document the process a bit and show a few photos, in case this could help others considering the upgrade.

In my SC, the old fuse panel had become brittle, with wiring that had changed color from overheating in places. While doing the wiring for headlight relays, I decided to check tightness of the screw terminals, and the first one I turned broke off along with the corner of the panel. The fuse and holder flew off into my garage or frunk somewhere, never to be seen again. That was the last straw!

Fellow Pelican Fred Cook makes a modern ATO fuse panel that mounts in the stock location, so after reading positive feedback from others I decided to order the panel and make the switch. Its a very, very well made part and Fred shipped to me just days after I ordered. The instructions were good as well, but be forewarned: if you have 10 thumbs and ADHD this may not be a job for you. A few notes:

• Fred says 8 - 12 hours work to change the panel. If you are really good with electrical work and all your wiring will just go back in the same locations and you have a good crimp tool, and you don't have to figure out 30 years of PO wiring hacks, then maybe you can do this job in 8 hours. I've been doing electrical projects since I was 6 years old, so this kind of work is easy for me, and it still took me over 12 hours. Granted, I had some scary PO wiring to trace and re-do.
  
• Don't forget to disconnect the minus side of the battery. I have a quick disconnect that is really handy.
  
• Take your time and label everything meticulously.
  
• I mentioned a good crimp tool. Get one and don't look back.
  
• Get a multimeter as well if you don't have one. You will need it eventually no matter what.
  
• I also used heat shrink tubing on all the connections for a durable and tidy end result.

The original panel in my SC. Doesn't look too bad but a couple fuse locations were fried or broken:



I made masking tape labels for every wire beforehand to save time and hassle. T is top and B is bottom:



Tedious labeling:



The crimp tool, you need one of these, as there are many connections and they need to be solid. I bought one from Knipex, made in Germany:



Crimping done:



The (almost) finished job. I took this pic before adding a couple fresh wires to run from the battery plus a little tidying up, but this is basically the end result:



So when all was said and done, I'm really pleased that I tackled this job. There were several "hotwired" connections in the wrong locations-- no fuse protection for any of the AC blowers for example, these were wired straight to 12V on the top side of the panel! Plus the front condenser fan motor was already melted into a blob. Fire waiting to happen. Along with correcting the scary stuff, I also added separate AC blower fuses inline, a fuse for the interior lights, the Jwest headlight relays I mentioned above, and a couple supplies of 12V from the battery (AC and headlights.) And the best part: everything works, and the car started right up. Woohoo!

[Algernon]

Looks great, but quite a chore!
For those who want to save 90% time, 90% cost and 90% crimp joints/connectors, see Cheap and easy ATO fuse block installation

[tirwin]

Congrats! It's always great when you pass the "smoke test" on the first try.

It is a tedious job but very rewarding in the end. I did not know it until I went to replace mine but one of the old fuse panels was cracked and several of the fuses were loose. Could very well have been contributing to some of the "ghosts" I was chasing before I did the job. I also found some things that had been wired poorly or incorrectly over the years. I might've even done a couple of them.

[OffCamber00]

That looks awesome. Its on my list to do and clean up all the old wiring from all the accessories that I've deleted.

[Josh D]

Great job! Install looks nice and clean.

I really need to do this. I lost the shunt between two terminals that gets me switched power to the ignition box (CDI) and had to have it towed. I didn't know what was wrong at this time. I switched out the fuel pump relay and it ran fine again, only to not start after work the next day. I at least had access to a multimeter this time in the parking lot at work, and was able to get the diagnostic right. I made a jumper to get me home, then rewired the circuits going to the two broke terminals through blade fuses. It works, but obviously doesn't look clean.

[evan9eleven]

Originally Posted by Algernon

Looks great, but quite a chore!
For those who want to save 90% time, 90% cost and 90% crimp joints/connectors, see Cheap and easy ATO fuse block installation

Thats definitely nice work too, and the budget version. However, its a chore even with screw connectors, as you still need to label everything and should be checking that wires are in the right place. I also like the spade terminals as they stay put and with the shrink tubing there are no exposed connections. But yeah, your way would be less work.

[doublebuffle]

Really nice work!

[NY65912]

Thanks for the write up. This is next on the to do list.

[Kemo]

very clean...great job!

[tops911]

looks great, I just installed one in my car. It's a quality part and well worth the effort.

[bugstrider]

Fantastic job! This is on my to do list if and when the car returns to me

[TheSt|G]

Yup, this is doing it right.

[winders]

Originally Posted by Algernon

Looks great, but quite a chore!
For those who want to save 90% time, 90% cost and 90% crimp joints/connectors, see Cheap and easy ATO fuse block installation

Originally Posted by evan9eleven

Thats definitely nice work too, and the budget version. However, its a chore even with screw connectors, as you still need to label everything and should be checking that wires are in the right place. I also like the spade terminals as they stay put and with the shrink tubing there are no exposed connections. But yeah, your way would be less work.

Sometimes saving 90% of the time and cost is not a good thing. This is one of those cases. I'd take the "Fred Cook" path any day over what Algernon suggests. Awesome work, evan9eleven!!

[Taxi!]

Definitely on my list of upgrades. Thanks for posting.

[fred cook]

Originally Posted by winders

Sometimes saving 90% of the time and cost is not a good thing. This is one of those cases. I'd take the "Fred Cook" path any day over what Algernon suggests. Awesome work, evan9eleven!!

Don't be too harsh..... Algernon's method is just another path to the same place! Only time will tell, but I suspect that his installation will last for a long time also. I suppose which path you choose to take depends on your ultimate goals for your car.

[winders]

Fred,

You are too nice! Algernon's method gets the car converted to modern fuses, but your solution is just so much more professional!

[allaircooled]

Nice job!

Timely thread, I am working on my Fred Cook fuse box replacement now. About time too, I have only had it for 2 or 3 years now. I actually already did a conversion 11 years ago but didn't like the way it came out. This time it will be better.

[david482]

I have Fred's panel and have just not got around to doing the job. I was trying to figure out if I needed some sort of pigtail connection from the current wires but it looks like you just crimped each group to a spade connected and coverd the with heat shrink. That looks to be an easier way to do it. I think you have inspired me to get this done.

[Shaun @ Tru6]

Why do you do this?

[DaveMcKenz]

Originally Posted by Shaun 84 Targa

Why do you do this?

Better design. Better fuses, better connectors, better connections.