reinstalling chain tensioner

[radicalfil]

I'm trying to reinstall my chain tensioners in my rebuilt motor. I have the part # 930.***.*** tensioners. The question I have is how do I get the pin to retract back into the tensioner so I may fit it under the idler wheel. The article on installing the tensioner the first time shows a pin holding the tensioner in the retracted state. How do I get the tensioner to retract and is there any danger of harming the unit while trying to get that little pin retracted. Is there some thing to put in the tensioner to hold the pin in place as the article states

Thanks
Phil

[john walker's workshop]

both old and new tensioners can be compressed slowly in a vise. the new ones have a hole where a pin goes in to keep it compressed. the old ones use a special C shaped tool to slip over the unit. a pair of channel locks can be used in a pinch after squeezing it in a vise.

[radicalfil]

Thanks!
That worked just great. I used an old drill bit as a pin to hold the tensioner in the retracted state while installing it.

Another questionabout the 930 chain tensioner setup...The manuals talk about a spacer on the pivot pin that holds the idler arm and tensioner. I have looked through my parts an the was no spacer when I removed the tensioners. However, there is about an 1/8-1/4 inch gap betwix the idler and the tensioner. Is this normal for this upgraded version or am I missing these spacers?

phil

[Early_S_Man]

Phil,

You haven't said what engine you are rebuilding. A gap is normal, but normally is on the order of 1/8" ... if you have the double-bushing chain wheel carrier. The spacer you speak of is the worst idea, ever, from the aspect of reliability ... save $100-$150 or so (for the pair of carriers) and put in a couple of cheap spacers! The single-bushing carriers are the primary reason for tensioner failures since 1965!

------------------
Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa
1992 Dodge Dakota 5.2 4X4 parts hauler

[radicalfil]

I am rebuilding 1972 911T w/ MFI.
New 2.4 Mahle pistons & cylinders w/ rings , bearings, rocker arm and shafts,rebuilt fuel pump(Pacific Fuel Injection) and throttle bodies(Eurometrix), Ultrasonic Cleaned oil cooler, heads rebuilt at Techcraft with cam towers cleaned, Elgin cam work, EBS gasket rebuild kit, rebuilt tranny, new motor mounts,painted fenders, clutch and fly wheel, and multiple small parts from variety of sources locally.
This is a project I am doing in the memory of my dad who passed away in the Spring of this year. Part of the greiving process for me to be distracted at home by this project that seemed to be an insurmountqable job. I am nearing the finish and am much closer than I thought I ever be. I have not broken too many parts. You see I am not a mechanic, never have been a mechanic. The most I've ever done before was to tune up my 356 or change the brake pads. This engine building is a total mind blower. I've bought a lot of tools and read the manuals, BA's book and this board daily for guidance and niffty tips on the projects that are commented on. Pictures are documenting the job.

With regard to the chain wheel carrier I'll have to check tomorrow when I attempt to set the cam timing. They are whatever came off the motor when I had dismantled it. I think I remember them being of the 2 bush variety.

phil

[john walker's workshop]

there would be at least a 1/2" gap if you had the old style support.