Removing Ignition Switch/Lock from SC - Page 2

Coastr · 03-03-2015, 02:50 AM

OK progress...

I was returning a neighbours soldering iron (different project) when I asked him 'don't happen to have a dremel, do you?'

He is a guy with everything and soon produced one with a myriad of attachments. So I hemmed and hawed and dug through the bits and pieces box and found a chunk of aluminium that looked like it might do the job.

I cut out a little piece and filed it up - but that went zinging off to who knows where. So I cut another piece, filed it down to fit the switch and left a tab hanging out for the lock barrel.

I then got the drill and made a centre hole in the back of the ignition lock barrel. I drew a couple of guide lines in sharpie then started to work the centre drill hole back and forth until I had the makings of a slot- albeit one with rounded shoulders due to the dremel bit.

^ tab I fashioned out of a sheet of aluminium

^ worked hole in the back of the lock barrel

I then worked the other end of my tab with the dremel to have rounded shoulders the same as the slot and did some fine filing and fitting work until it dropped into the slot. I test fitted the switch back on and it all worked.

I'll probably glue it in with something but for now it's just sitting in there and held with pressure from the switch screws. I think it's going to work OK as a solution, certainly for a thousand dollar saving I'm happy with the solution.

Figuring I was on a roll, I hooked the switch back up to the car and reconnected the battery but took out the fuel pump relay (I only wanted to hear cranking, not start the car).

I twisted the key and ... no bueno.

At this point I'm thinking the switch is broken because I don't get any 'spring' resistance for the start function - it just turns around right until the end. The dash lights come on so the switch is definitely turning, and the steering lock is working OK.

The only wild-card is that I have an immobiliser courtesy of a PO - it hasn't given me trouble before - i guess I'm wondering if there is a small chance the no-start is immobiliser related - or is the lack of 'spring' in the switch indicative of a dead ignition switch.

Coastr · 03-03-2015, 03:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 83_Silberpfeil

I went thru exact same prob on my 83 SC last year. Spent the $950 or so and had it replaced. Then, next problem --- you know have different key for ignition and door lock. A real pain in the #$%. Plus the new key of the new ignition has this tiny key head --- so small that does not provide enough surface to grab/grip or enough torque to turn the ignition. I need to buy a new key head --- the original Porsche one to fix this problem. It just goes on and on.

Wow you spent the $950...I just can't bring myself to do that. It seems ridiculous. Ebay is full of 996/Boxster locks for about $150 or so. I guess supply is running out.

I already had two sets of keys (and no key for the passenger door) so I guess the car has been broken into or had a replacement ignition lock already. I can't really be bothered delving into the big book of receipts to figure it out.

Dpmulvan · 03-03-2015, 03:22 AM

Any locksmith can make you one key for everything for a few hundred dollars

tirwin · tirwin's Garage

If you use a screwdriver in the electrical part of the assembly and twist, will it start? Or is it the mechanical side?

Coastr · 03-03-2015, 05:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tirwin

If you use a screwdriver in the electrical part of the assembly and twist, will it start? Or is it the mechanical side?

I didn't do the screwdriver test..I will do it later when I get a chance. The switch is definitely rotating with the fix because the dash lights come on. Previously they were stuck on all the time (with the shaft broken). The screwdriver test will tell me if the fix for the shaft isn't allowing the switch to rotate far enough to engage the starter switch though.

There still is the issue of having no 'spring' at the end of the key rotation. In fact when I did a screwdriver bench test of the starter switch, there was a tiny bit of spring at the end of the travel, but it didn't feel like what it should.

tirwin · tirwin's Garage

It's been a while since I've done this but the electrical mechanism has a spring in it to engage the starter. If it turns freely with a screwdriver then it's probably ok and it's the mechanical part that is binding, If the screwdriver test doesn't work then I think I have a couple of the electrical connectors in my parts bin. I can send you one to test with if you'll cover the postage to parts unknown.

ossiblue · 03-03-2015, 08:32 AM

My only suggestion is that you made the tab out of aluminum and it isn't secured into the slot. It's possible that there is enough play in the slot/tab connection that it isn't moving the electrical portion all the way through the spring resistance of the start position. Also, the aluminum itself may be soft enough that the tab has twisted a bit and the full movement of the key to the start position is not being translated into a full turn of the tab/electrical portion into the start position--in other words, the turning of the base by the key has reached it's furthest point before the electrical part has completed its turn to the start position.

Just a thought. The screwdriver test will confirm if the electrical part is good, and you should feel the resistance of the spring. Still, I would do a double check of the strength of the aluminum tab and whether or not is is twisting.

Coastr · 03-03-2015, 01:52 PM

Car PASSES the screwdriver test. I am able to engage the starter with a screwdriver in the switch. It feels like the start spring has only a tiny amount of movement - I can't remember what it was like now when the key was working. I'm sure there should be more.

So the problem is that there is enough play in the tab/slot that it fails to twist the starter enough. But the fit is pretty tight. I think the two issues are combining to cause the problem. Too much play in the tab and the switch needing a lot of 'turn' to engage the starter.

What do other peoples keys feel like? How much 'turn' do you need to do to engage the starter?

Coastr · 03-04-2015, 12:15 AM

I have purchased a new switch and I'm going to fit that to the back of the repaired lock. I'll glue in the tab to get it to hold tight. If that doesn't work I'll be starting the car with a screwdriver until I find a good used replacement.

Coastr · 03-04-2015, 03:17 PM

New switch has arrived. There is a big difference in the spring action (thigh it is stiffer, much stiffer). The switch lockout is also there on the he new one.

I'm going to bond the tab and install and see where I am at.

Coastr · 03-06-2015, 12:30 AM

I glued in the tab with jb weld and let it set for 24 hours. Works perfectly now.

I recommend this fix to anyone, it really wasn't they hard to do if you have the tools. I didn't need a new ignition switch after all.

steve84 · steve84's Garage

Coaster: my 1984 also has the small circular hole in the dash just to the right of the ignition switch. Have you looked for a plug to cover it up? Also, thanks for the explanation about the keypad; I had no idea why there is that hole in my dash.