doing suspension work, a few questions

[Bergo]

Probably a silly question, but when removing the front A-arms/torsion bars, where is the best place to place a jack/stands (in my case, a midrise lift, as my car is on a 4-post)? I'm doing a suspension refresh, so curious where the best place to lift is, when I need access to just about everything?

Also, in the rear, I need to weld on my new WEVO sway bar mounts, but on my '74 the fuel pump bracket is totally blocking the driver side sway bar mount. Is it possible to remove it without cutting (the fuel pump mount that is, obviously need to grind off the old sway bar mount). There's a fair bit of undercoating on there, but I didn't really see bolts, looks like it's welded to the torsion bar tube?

[JeremyD]

Originally Posted by Bergo

Probably a silly question, but when removing the front A-arms/torsion bars, where is the best place to place a jack/stands (in my case, a midrise lift, as my car is on a 4-post)? I'm doing a suspension refresh, so curious where the best place to lift is, when I need access to just about everything?

There is a bulkhead - where the body comes together - basically right behind the front wheels in the corners - use a big block of wood, You can also use a big block of wood that goes from one side of the front a-arm mount to the other one - right in front of the gas tank.

Originally Posted by Bergo

Also, in the rear, I need to weld on my new WEVO sway bar mounts, but on my '74 the fuel pump bracket is totally blocking the driver side sway bar mount. Is it possible to remove it without cutting (the fuel pump mount that is, obviously need to grind off the old sway bar mount). There's a fair bit of undercoating on there, but I didn't really see bolts, looks like it's welded to the torsion bar tube?

Well - if you have a 74 = and the fuel lines through the tunnel have not been addressed - then I would replace those AND relocate the fuel pump to the front of the car. They are nylon and prone to cracking - especially with our wonderful ethanol laced fuel. (Len Cumming on this board makes excellent replacements)

[Bergo]

scope creep! Bosch 044 + new fuel line time? haha. Thanks for the tip

the bridge jack is great in many scenarios, in this case, it's a bit in the way, oh well!

as you can see in the pic below, the middle section of the jack interferes with dropping the steering rack a bit if I have the arms out to the jack points you suggested, should be able to use some spacers and leave enough room to wiggle it out though.

[Charles Freeborn]

Short answers - support the car by the seam welds. Do a search for "911 jacking points". Be aware that when the weight of the front suspension all comes out of the car it can get tail heavy and try to rock back off of your lift. Support the rear as far back as you can.
To retain the rear mount fuel pump you will have to cut off the mount and re-weld once the sway bar mounts are in. Also be aware that your '74 sway bar won't work with the newer mounts. Old is 18 mm dia and newer mounts are 20, if memory serves. I chucked it all when I did mine and upgraded to SC style trailing arms, sways, adjustable spring plates.... but that's a bigger job...
Chase the threads in my signature for how I did mine.
-C

[Bergo]

sounds like I'll be following your threads nearly lock step, I'm also swapping my rear trailing arms out for SC ones!

[Charles Freeborn]

You'll need to source transmission output flanges that mate up with the SC CV joints too. I got a pair at Rothsport.
-C

[Smoove1010]

If you haven't already found it, this might help:
All the jacking points??

[BK911]

Why are you swapping out the trailing arms?

[chrismorse]

Here is a link to the Wevo rear bar mounts and fuel pump relocation.

Replacing rear bar mounts 74 911

It worked out well. The fuel return line that runs under the exhaust heat dump was toast.
The stainless brake line just ran right through the old stock plastic line.

Not a factory solution but I'm happy with it.
hth
chris

[Jdub]

I have two 2x4" pieces of wood into which I have cut the seam you will find just behind the front wheels. These cuts locate the blocks securely by fitting into the body seam, and take the load between the jack and the chassis.

[Charles Freeborn]

Originally Posted by BK911

Why are you swapping out the trailing arms?

Old style ball mount sway bar brackets are NLA, and poor design. Bolt on droplinks are far better. Early (4 bolt 2 pin) CV's are stupid expensive. Cost of changeover there alone pretty much pays for new trailing arms. Adjustable spring plates are also far superior.
-C