Oh yeah, should have mentioned that sorry, just forgot, it will be loose in the factory socket, you are right.
I had to replace the factory lighter at one point and just could not find a replacement, so, like others have done, found the brilliant solution (posted here on Pelican "Dr. Bulczynski 3.2 Cigarette Lighter MOD $5.99") of sleeving the factory socket with a std socket so now all std plugs work. I can now charge my phone, and use the above listed part. BUT you will have to use a std cig lighter to "cover up" the hole.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/612310-dr-bulczynski-3-2-cigarette-lighter-mod-5-99-a.html
Thanks! I'll be making a trip down to Napa today. Perfect timing since the air box has been pulled to replace my drain hose. Actually just bumped the Cigarette Lighter MOD thread to compliment this thread. Also discovered that the MOD can be done from the cabin so I am glad I don't need to try to wedge my sausage fingers up and under the dash.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...55c043d1b5.jpg
"I can see for miles and miles, under there"

Cheers


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quick fix for a loose charger receptacle: Wrap a few turns of electrical/silicone tape around the plastic body so it fits snug in the cig. lighter. Only the tip and spring-loaded grounding legs have to make contact. Same with plug-in GPS units, cell phone/media players, etc.

Sherwood

I'd love to do this. What is the voltage range for the sweep of the fuel/oil level gauge needles? I am planning to buy a wideband controller that can be programmed to give a custom output voltage (0-5V range). Would this work with the factory gauge?

I think you might want more range on the AFR....I like to watch my gauge at wot to make sure it is getting into the AFR range I want and that is less than 13 temporarily.

I have available new, unmolested in it plastic coffin the item in post #10 for $10 plus shipping to the US. PM if interested.

Not dropped, just not needed.

I do not see anything in post #10. ????????

Just to add to this thread, on the first startup this spring, the cheap cigarette lighter voltmeter I had informed me that the alternator was putting out up to 17.x volts (readings varied). I tested t the voltmeter in my DD, and it was accurate. A new Voltage regulator and now I am a steady 13.7 (without headlights on).

Usually the tach bounces when VR failing. I got a battery melted under those conditions - at that point the tach had died. I watch the tach for any weird signs - at which point I check the VR output.
Alan

Phew! Disaster averted!

DC 12V Battery Level Monitor Over and Low Voltage Alarm Car Cigarette Lighter ZS | eBay
Neat solution

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1462367731.jpg

I know this is not the cheapest way, but I just bought a used tachometer and sent it in to have a voltmeter added in place of the stupid shift light. It looks like what the factory should have done and in the end it was not that expensive. I still have my OEM tach safely tucked away in a nice safe place.

Agree, in the stock 3.2L setup the AFR is in the 11.8 to 12.5 AFR at WOT. The gauge should read 12.0 to 16.0 to cover the full range of possible AFRs in a properly running car.

I was quoted $465 to add a voltmeter by NHS. Don't get me wrong, it's an awesome mod. But for that kind of money, I wrapped an Amazon plug in with electrical tape and called it a day.

Sorry... been busy and haven't had a chance to post a build thread on this gauge. It was made using a fuel/oil combo gauge and the factory movements. The movements don't work like a standard voltage gauge. They have 2 windings which allows them to compensate for the variance in battery/charging voltage so you can't drive them with a standard 2 wire configuration. The box has a voltage regulator to handle this problem and adjustments to calibrate the readings. The output of the narrow band O2 sensor is .1 to .9 volts so the face can printed with a larger range and it should work fine. This setup was for my MFI engine and it really doesn't provide any actionable data. The engine runs rich and has wild swings through the RPM range. You really need a wide band AFR with the MFI engines to have something usable which is why I ended up building the other gauge also. I'll try to find some time later in the week to post a separate thread.... and I'll talk with the guy that designed and built the circuit to see if he's willing to provide these.

I checked my notes for when we designed this and originally we did have a sweep from 9 to 16 so that is certainly doable with the circuit. Would just need to print a new face and calibrate the output from the box.

That would be great!!

Thanks

I admire the custom project, but why re-invent the wide band A/F sensor/gauge when off-the-shelf products are available as well as relatively affordable. However, I do share your interest in thinking outside of the box.

Sherwood

Because the off-the-shelf gauges match the vintage Porsche gauges in zero ways.

The range of AFRs to display can be customized by the wideband controller (Innovate LC-2), but they have to give an output in the 0-5 V range. I'd love to know more about what voltage the Porsche gauges are expecting.