|
|
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: a few miles east of USA
Posts: 3,393
|
magnecor wires installed them - heres how it went........
thought i'd share with you the installation of the wires. simple job, but not without headaches. plus i got a new camera i had to get to grips with.
the job should take approx 1 hour (from start to test drive) - it took me 2! i had problems with: locating the plugs with the new wires. the holes are smaller in the new wires and it took real patience to get the two together (cost me the extra hour as i'm not real familar with the angle to go at) the wire provided for the coil was a little short - it fitted but only just. you will need to remove the plastic cover to get to the wire on the left hand side of the bay. (i took picture but it never came out) here's the old original junk: first remove the old standard brackets after removal of blower pipe and anything else in the way (i used a stout flat screw driver blade to part the brackets from the wires - they never broke): laid them out in order (pipe removed in background): new wires ready for fitting!!: remove distributer cap from distributer (makes wire removal easier) and remove and replace wires one by one (they're numbered so should be easy!): once wires are routed drill out brackets (mine were drilled to 8.5mm for kv85 wires) - i got to this stage after about an hour: replace brackets in original positions (a little fiddly but they should go together quite easily): with the brackets, pipes, covers, and any other items replaced the finished item: the drive does seem better. throttle response seems crisper and more urgent (but its always hard to tell isn't it?). i think i've had a problem with an intact leak for some time, so that doesn't help. but at least they have brightened up the bay (a rather dull bay)no end!! hope that is of interest/use to somebody richard
Last edited by dickster; 01-13-2002 at 01:07 AM.. |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
|
VERY nice Richard. That's an upgrade I'm seriously considering myself.
So is there a difference in power? I think that's what's on everyone's mind. We can all see that the looks are improved
__________________
Mark Szabo 1986 911 Targa 3.2 (I will miss you) 1985 Scirocco 8V (I will not miss you) 1986 Dodge B150 Ram Van (I can't believe I got $200 for you) 1987 Escort 5-speed 1.9 RIP |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
|
Magnecor states that their wires will give no increase in power over properly opererating OE wires. The "increase" that people feel is from the simple replacement of a defective part. Finally someone tells the truth about their product!
__________________
Dan Tolley 1987 911 Coupe The Owner's Gallery 2006 Audi A4 3.0q Cabriolet 2003 Ford F-150 XL Lumber and Trash Hauler. |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: a few miles east of USA
Posts: 3,393
|
my wires were completly shot - had red tape holding part of them together - so i have noticed a small increase in power. i cannot compare to good standard wires.
however they are quality items that should last the life of the car, are cheaper and better looking than the originals. as a matter of interest the construction is diff. between the 8mm and the 8.5mm. the 8's are of layered construction whilst the 8.5 is solid silicon - it surprised me but i don't know what that means. richard
|
||
|
|
|
|
Unregistered
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: a wretched hive of scum and villainy
Posts: 55,652
|
I installed the Magnecor 8.5 wires on my SC two weeks ago and it made a HUGE improvement. I guess that proves how bad the original wires were. I could actually hear them arcing at idle.
I would definitely recommend them. |
||
|
|
|
|
Irrationally exuberant
|
I know I'm in the minority here but I didn't care for the Magnecores. I found them to be a hassle to install. The leads were barely long enough and I spent an extra hour frigging with/transferring wire holders that should have come with the plug wires in the first place. I gave them away after the connector to the coil failed (and took a coil with it).
-Chris |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Cornwall-on-Hudson, New York, USA
Posts: 4,499
|
One of the basic concerns when installling Magnecors--and they'll be the first to tell you this--is making absolutely sure that there is firrm and permanant contact between the wires and their distributor and coil sockets. I found that by simply "plugging 'em in,' as you might with an ordinary set of wires, the Magnecor boots were so tight that not only was it difficult to be sure you were getting complete contact, they also tended to inch--okay, millimeter--out with time. Particularly with the coil wires, I ended up securing them, tightening the boots against the fairly conical sockets, with very small Ty-Raps.
Stephan
__________________
Stephan Wilkinson '83 911SC Gold-Plated Porsche '04 replacement Boxster |
||
|
|
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Left Coast, Canada
Posts: 4,572
|
Quote:
And isn't that the case with a lot of 'performance' parts?
__________________
'81 SC Coupe "Blue Bomber" "Keep your eyes on the road, and your hands upon the wheel."- J.D.M. |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,563
|
Excellent info here guys
![]() I'm picking up my KV85 Magnecor leads this afternoon from a local source. Still awaiting my new dizzy cap, rotor and dust cover from Pelican Parts, which I hope will arrive sometime this week. Then I can do the upgrade this weekend and see how I go ![]() Nothing really prompted this. I just want to have maximum, reliable spark at any load point as well as the benefit of better heat resilience, as the factory leads are close to turbocharger's compressor housing.
__________________
Merv '89 911 Turbo Cab Protomotive MAP ECU, Twin Plugged Heads, GT2-EVO CAMs, 3.3L fully finned P&C's, ARP fasteners, C2T head gaskets, Titanium Retainers, Turbo spec valves, springs & guides, 964 splash valves, GT35R BB turbo, GSF Stainless Headers, Magnaflow Exhaust, Full bay Intercooler, TiAL 46mm w/gate, TiAL 50mm BOV, Apexi AVC-R EBC, SPEC Stage3+ Clutch kit, Crane CDI Ignition
|
||
|
|
|
|
Moderator
|
Merv
Top Gun (Aussie brand) makes an 8.5mm spiral wound set which fit perfectly on my '69. Cost was NZ$169, or < A$140. That has GOT to be cheaper than the Magnecors. I guess the Magnecors are better quality... but only on the basis that they are "the most expensive and, therefore, the best". Cam
__________________
1975 911S (in bits) 1969 911T (goes, but need fettling) 1973 BMW 2002tii (in bits, now with turbo) |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,563
|
Thanks for the heads up Cam, however, I've already requested the KV85's be made up for my car. $300 AUD for the set!!!!
__________________
Merv '89 911 Turbo Cab Protomotive MAP ECU, Twin Plugged Heads, GT2-EVO CAMs, 3.3L fully finned P&C's, ARP fasteners, C2T head gaskets, Titanium Retainers, Turbo spec valves, springs & guides, 964 splash valves, GT35R BB turbo, GSF Stainless Headers, Magnaflow Exhaust, Full bay Intercooler, TiAL 46mm w/gate, TiAL 50mm BOV, Apexi AVC-R EBC, SPEC Stage3+ Clutch kit, Crane CDI Ignition
|
||
|
|
|
|
Moderator
|
Bugger...
Oh well, you might as well assume they are better (I have no idea if they suppressed RFI well - the 69 had all the electrical equipment you would expect in a late 60's base model sports car - nothing!) Cam
__________________
1975 911S (in bits) 1969 911T (goes, but need fettling) 1973 BMW 2002tii (in bits, now with turbo) |
||
|
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,563
|
They BETTER be better, considering the price difference
![]() With my existing factory setup, I typically get a lot of hesitation/stuttering when the dizzy cap gets wet (i.e: after washing the tail), so there is definately an ignition/sealing issue there. The problem goes away when the engine is warm and the area around dizzy dries up. I decided to put all new components in to make sure everything's nice'n'new. Anyway, the rotors typically have a resistor beneath them and tend to break down over time. I'll post my findings anyway.
__________________
Merv '89 911 Turbo Cab Protomotive MAP ECU, Twin Plugged Heads, GT2-EVO CAMs, 3.3L fully finned P&C's, ARP fasteners, C2T head gaskets, Titanium Retainers, Turbo spec valves, springs & guides, 964 splash valves, GT35R BB turbo, GSF Stainless Headers, Magnaflow Exhaust, Full bay Intercooler, TiAL 46mm w/gate, TiAL 50mm BOV, Apexi AVC-R EBC, SPEC Stage3+ Clutch kit, Crane CDI Ignition
|
||
|
|
|
|
Author of "101 Projects"
|
I personally prefer the OEM wires with the stainless steel sheeth on the outside. Having spent many hours at Hughes Space and Comm designing and testing systems like these, there is no real substitute for proper grounded shielding...
We just started selling the Magnecor wires in our *NEW* 911 Recommended Upgrades section: http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/911M/por_911M_911rec_main.htm -Wayne
__________________
Wayne R. Dempsey, Founder, Pelican Parts Inc., and Author of: 101 Projects for Your BMW 3-Series • 101 Projects for Your Porsche 911 • How to Rebuild & Modify Porsche 911 Engines • 101 Projects for Your Porsche Boxster & Cayman • 101 Projects for Your Porsche 996 / 997 • SPEED READ: Porsche 911 Check out our new site: Dempsey Motorsports |
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,563
|
Wayne, how do the Magnecors compare to the OEM units?
I was going to go with new OEM's, but decided to give the Magnecors a try since there's a lot of hype out there about them. Additionally, they'll look grouse in the engine bay and would compliment my Red TiAL Blow Off Valve nicely
__________________
Merv '89 911 Turbo Cab Protomotive MAP ECU, Twin Plugged Heads, GT2-EVO CAMs, 3.3L fully finned P&C's, ARP fasteners, C2T head gaskets, Titanium Retainers, Turbo spec valves, springs & guides, 964 splash valves, GT35R BB turbo, GSF Stainless Headers, Magnaflow Exhaust, Full bay Intercooler, TiAL 46mm w/gate, TiAL 50mm BOV, Apexi AVC-R EBC, SPEC Stage3+ Clutch kit, Crane CDI Ignition
|
||
|
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Provo, Utah
Posts: 127
|
I just installed the magnecor's last night which I ordered from Pelican and they installed very easily. Was frustrated with the lack of wire guides but oh well, I will adapt something. I definitely saw a power increase but it was probably due to the old worn out plugs I had in there. Good tip on keeping the wires seated in the distributor cap. They were hard to push in and I wondered how well they were seating.
|
||
|
|
|
|
Schleprock
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Frankfort IL USA
Posts: 16,639
|
Yes, the dist. cap ends are a tight fit. A good way to get them well seated on the terminal is to pull up/out on an edge of the boot as you're pushing it onto the cap. This allows the air to escape (you can sometimes hear it hissing) and prevents the boot from popping off due to the air pressure underneath the boot. Sounds silly, but it's true!
__________________
Kevin L '86 Carrera "Larry" |
||
|
|
|