3.0 fitting: Input please

[Isabo]

The Background.
My daily car has to be replaced, my 911E needs either an engine rebuild or a new engine.
Ok, after a weekend of playing with numbers trying to get my better half to make a decision so I could blame him if it later turned out wrong, and looking at options I've decided to get a mini cooper to use everyday and have a 3.0SC engine fitted to my 911. The engine was rebuilt (P&C+top) by my mechanic for his own car, it's done about 2000klm since, he's now got a 3.6 he's going to fit so I can trade for the 3.0.
From what I understand it should be possible to use my existing exhaust without aggravation. The engine will come with the original CIS and puts out 200bhp, I think it is to standard spec. The mechanic is an old friend so I'm comfortable that I'll be treated honestly. However, I'd appreciate a little input so I'm not treated as a dumb blonde with a chequebook, (or; an overdraft, a wounded credit card and imminently, new carpayments in my case): What I would like to know is how many proffessional hours the swap should take in a Porsche shop. I've read some criticism of the CIS system, is it best to stick with it or is there a good reliable alternative (without breaking the bank as I'm already sailing very close to the wind.
Thanks
Isa

[JSDSKI]

No knock on your mechanic - but I would keep the car stock with original engine - it is more valuable with matching numbers and systems. The new Mini is a blast to drive. Keep the "E" (MFI) in the 911 and save it for the weekends....

[john walker's workshop]

the E needs to be a 70 or later for the flywheel/clutch assembly of the 3.0 to relate to the transmission. the 70/71 trans has a different bellhousing allowing for the pull type clutch of the 73-89 style. however, the 70/71 trans itself will be short lived with the power of the 3.0, so you should use a 73-86 trans for longevity. that also requires the later shifter, and drive flange changes depending on the year of the trans.
your car is not set up for the CIS system. it will need a fuel pump change, an accumulator, misc wiring changes, a tach, a CD unit (3.0 uses a 6 pin, you have a 3 pin), fuel line changes, but it can be done. best to find a wreck you can get all the parts from cheap.
the oil line from engine needs to be changed to the early, under the bellhousing style like you have now.
carbs would make the job a lot easier, but then there's their cost.
you would probably have 30 hours into the swap if you went to CIS, and the guy didn't waste any time. plus parts. $$$$$!

[Isabo]

JSDSKI
I don't have original engine, it was replaced by a prev owner. I'm told my car is mechanically wonderful except for the engine and that has now failed. My car is not original, Milu(bastard) describes it as a bit of a nail, it has poor paint, a ratty interior, nasty fibreglass corners, repro fuchs and I love her. If I had a better example I would perhaps consider going the original and concours route. As funds permit I'm going to turn her into my dream car, this will be an RS style but without the ducktail. I am still undecided about exact colour and interior but those decisions are a long way off. Use is going for runs to the lake or the mountain with my husband and occaisional light and informal competition (hill climbs). As the car is for keeping, value is not an issue for me. I know I will never get back what I know I need to spend. But thanks for the advice.
John Walker
Thanks, Im almost non technical so at first glance you gave me a fright, in retrospect it doesn't SEEM that awful - Conference with mech coming up! Thanls

[Wayne 962]

Get a copy of 101 Projects and the new engine rebuild book - I wrote both of them so that people who knew nothing would understand what they are getting themselves into...

-Wayne

[Isabo]

I'm just a poor p.a. with limited funds so I make do with borrowing my bosss copy of 101 projects. I might buy him the engine book for xmas though.