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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: SoBay, SoCal
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HELP: Carrera 3.2 WON'T START. Starter problem?? Missed Auto-X
All pumped to attend PCA Zone 8 Auto-X Santa Barbara Region. But my 1986 3.2 Carrera WOUNLDN'T START!!!!! Arrrgggg. Unfortunately i missed driving at Auto-X .
Need help in diagnosing the problem. Upon turning key to start, all i hear is a low db whirlling hum (fuel pump?), but engine doesn't even attempt at turning over. All electricals work, except faulty alarm (doesn't set off alarm when passenger door opened). Everything had worked perfectly well since my last drive (ie no warning of impending problems). Any idea's? Would a FAULTY STARTER cause this scenario? How about faulty IGNITION KILL SWITCH (if one exists) off the alarm ? Thanks in advance. Mike '86 coupe |
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did you hear a "click" when you turned the key to "start"?
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Tim 1973 911T 2005 VW GTI "Dave, hit the brakes, but don't look like your htting the brakes...what? I DON'T KNOW, BRAKE CASUAL!!!" dtw's thoughts after nearly rear ending a SHP officer |
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If you are not even getting the starter to turn, sounds like the battery is gone. Have you been having problems before with a slow start? If not the batter, you probably need to start from the begining to see if you are getting power past the batter to the starter and beyond. If the batter is gone, need to find out why, could be a electrical problem draining the battery.
Mine went dead last week after I determined that aux fans in the wheel well were running even with the ignition off. Have not totally figured this out yet other than the relay in the trunk is bad and I believe the heater switch is bad as well. Post some more info Bob
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2009 C2S cabriolet 1987 Targa - sold 2003 BMW X5 - sold |
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Hi Mike,
Sounds like a bad starter. I had the exact same symptoms in my '85 Carrera. In my case, the problem was worse in hot weather, and the car would eventually start after many tries, or if I let it sit for a while. The proof that the starter is the problem is if the engine turns over after the starter is hit with a mallet. If you put in a starter, I would recommend putting in a non-Bosch high torque starter. They are lighter, apparently more reliable, and also more tolerant of worn ring gears. -Juan
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www.ArtOfRoadRacing.com, Thunderhill, 30 Jan 2011 ArtOfRoadRacing@gmail.com SM #34, '04 GT3, '73 911s, '70 911 2.7L PRC Toyo Spec #11 |
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Thanks so far...keep those ideas coming.
1)No Click 2)Tried Jumping battery. No luck. Also, all lights and electricals working Any other possibilities? Mike |
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Hi Mike,
Guessing can be very expensive. If you have a test light I will guide you through the diagnosis so you will know exactly what needs to be done. If you don't have one, you can get one very cheaply at any auto parts store. Here is how you do it: First, raise the rear of the car and make it very stable. We don't want it to fall on you! That can damage the car! (kidding) Any way, next, disconnect the coil wire at the distributor cap and ground it somewhere on the engine. This is a precaution so that if it decides to work all of a sudden, the car won't start while you are under it. Take the alligator clip on the end of the wire on the test light and attach it to the ground strap at the front transmission mount. Now touch the probe of the test light to the terminal stud on the starter that has the FAT wire attached to it. The tester should light. If it doesn't, you have a bad connection through that wire to the battery (assuming you have a good ground at the test light alligator clip). That wire should be hot all the time even with the key off. If it is hot (lights the light), move on. For the next step you will need a lovely assistant. If a lovely assistant is not available, a regular one will do. Be sure the trans. is in NEUTRAL. Have your lovely (or other) assistant turn the key to the start position while you touch the probe to the terminal that the thinner wire is attached to. If the test light lights when the key is turned to the START position, and it always lights when touched to the FAT terminal, you have a bad starter. If it doesn't light when the key is turned to start, your starter is probably ok and we will have to move to the next step which is at the ignition switch. Now if you have determined the starter is good, we will test the ignition switch. You won't need the car up for this. Behind the dash, there are several wires that go to the ignition switch. There should be a yellow one. Find a good ground for the test light and connect the alligator clip. Probe the yellow wire while turning the key to the start position. If it doesn't light, probe the plain red one. You don't have to turn the key for this one. If the red one lights the tester but the yellow one doesn't light it when you turn the key, you have a bad ignition switch. If they both work ok here but the thinner one on the starter didn't light, the yellow wire is broken or disconnected somewhere between the switch and the starter. If there is no power at the red wire, you should trace it to the battery power feed. This is really not as complicated as it may seem but I just didn't want to leave anything to chance as I don't know your level of technical expertise. If you need more, let me know. I'll be glad to help. Rob |
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Rob,
Thanks for the detailed instructions on testing. I'll have to tackle it next wkend, when time allows. Thanks mike |
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