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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 11,758
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Injector Question
So I read this post the other day, and I was interested in step 10. It doesn't sound like it matters which lead you connect to the positive on the injectors when you ''wake'' them up. Sounds like a great thing to do, but I have never heard of this before. Anyone have any observations ?
TRE Cup TRE Cup is offline Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Van Nuys Posts: 9,410 1) pull the plugs out 2) squirt some marvel mystery oil into each cylinder and let it sit overnight 3) Gently turn the motor over by hand with the plugs out 4) Drain all fluids, replace all filters/ replenish with new fluids- weight oil does not matter much as you will be replacing it again anyway 5) disconnect coil and dme relay (black rectangular relay under driver seat) 6) hook up new battery and turn the ignition / starter over so you spin the motor up to oil pressure (you will see this on the guage to the left of the speedo) 7) have a fire extinguisher and some friends handy to check out bottom of the front of the car, rear underside and engine compartment 8) plug in the dme relay 9) turn the engine over and check for fuel leaks 10) disconnect each injector at the fuel rails/ rig up a couple small leads to "tickle" them with 12 volts- just touching one lead briefly while the other is connected. This will slam the pintel valves open / closed and will most likely help remove the varnish build up 11) Install plugs and Hook up the coil 12) fire it up on the new gas . Now note that the exhaust system will most likely have a lot of oil in it and will smoke like h*ll as it warms up. So the tip here is to remove the cat converter and muffler so this oil can be washed out of the two and any residual oil in the heat exchangers burn off. Of course the marvel mystery oil will contribute to the mosquito fogging experience till it burns off too Some observations from experience When cars are parked for a long period of time on old oil, acids form in the block and attack the bearings. We have disassembled 2-5 year stored engines and seen this. You can't add material from the outside, so this means the engine needs a rebuild to get it right. But since you are on a budget, the above procedure is okay to see what your engine can run like. 3.2 motors have fuel lines that crack and rot over time. To save $, these lines can be re-hosed at a local hose supply house, but make sure you clock the fittings correctly and have them pressure test the assemblies before reinstalling them. If you cannot turn over the motor by hand after an overnite soak with the mmo, then be patient and try again after squirting more in and waiting. You can go counter clockwise a little, then turn clockwise several revolutions by hand |
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My 86 3.2 engine had 2 stuck injectors. Along with spraying a little carb cleaner in them, I gave them a few quick shots with 12v and a few light taps with the rubber handle on the screwdriver. Does not matter which is + or-. They freed up after a few tries, and worked great afterward.
Some will argue against using the 12v from the battery saying it is too much, but it worked great for me. Just don't leave it connected continuously.
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Ed 1973.5 T |
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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 11,758
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Thanks Ed,
That's exactly what I was looking for. Been messing with Ljetronic almost since it came out, and this is the first I ever heard of this. |
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