Wind Noise/Drafty

[Rtrorkt]

A question for the brain trust. Car is a '69 tub and seems to have excessive wind noise from the doors. Would new door seals take care of things? Driver's door is sometimes hard to close, but I think that is a latch alignment not seals.

Any ideas of how to cut the wind noise down along with the drafty nature of driving the car?

[FA-18C]

New seals will help, but make sure that you have all of the plugs in the various door access holes. Double check the bottom of the door as well. Also check the seal in your smuggler's box. Get some painter's tape and you can tape off some areas and isolate the main culprits.

[911obgyn]

After i did seals i replaced the plastic liner under the door panels, that helped.

[Rtrorkt]

Thank you for the suggestions. Car is with my air cooled whisperer trying to sort an electrical issue. When I get it back will look at the items you guys suggested. Did i understand correctly to put the plastic sheet behind the door card?

[pampadori]

I added openable vent windows to my 1983 a few years back. I didn't replace the seals for these triangle shaped windows until just recently and wish that I had. These seals have made a very noticeable difference.
The vapor barrier behind the door cards is a good suggestion too for reasons beyond wind noise.

[thetorch]

The window frames can also be adjusted inwards as well to improve the seal with the weather stripping.

This stopped most of the whistle I was getting at highway speeds.

[PeteKz]

Before you start "trying this and that" find out where the wind noise comes from. A passenger will help. Drive at highway speed, push on various parts of the door and window frame, cover noisy spots with your hand, use tape to cover gaps, etc. Make sure the frunk hood seal is good too, as air and noise will come through the frunk and then through the various perforations in the dashboard.

When I went through this on my 1973, I knew I had to replace the door frame seal on both sides, but I found that the window channel fuzzies made noise too, so I replaced those too. A particular problem spot is at the space between the front bottom corner of the window frame and the front top corner of the door. Later cars have a 1" plastic fairing that goes in there to smooth the corner and provide a better fit to the door seal. In my 1973, I improvised by building it up with black silicone sealer, shaped the same way. Someday I might get around to ordering the plastic pieces... The original doors also had a bead of "dum dum" (butyl rubber sealer) stuffed around the door frame channels-to-door spaces to seal them. Put something back there too, either the dum dum or silicone sealer (after you get everything aligned).

Wind noise is usually the sum of a lot of little things, and you just have to invest time to find them and seal them. But remember these are old designs, so they won't be as quiet as modern cars.

[Bill Douglas]

If my SC starts making wind noise, it's usually the window track rubber having slipped down and inch.

[Fab64]

When I bought my '72 911T in 1978, there was a wind noise that I traced to the intersection of the door and the front of the window frame. The inside edges of the door and the frame are not flush, so the door rubber could not lay flat against them. I fabricated two filler pieces out of balsa wood, painted them black, and glued them in place. This took care of my wind noise. When I bought my '84 Carrera this past August, I noticed that, at some point, Porsche had resolved this issue in a nearly identical fashion. You may want to try this on your '69. Good luck.

[Ian Comerford]

Originally Posted by Fab64

When I bought my '72 911T in 1978, there was a wind noise that I traced to the intersection of the door and the front of the window frame. The inside edges of the door and the frame are not flush, so the door rubber could not lay flat against them. I fabricated two filler pieces out of balsa wood, painted them black, and glued them in place. This took care of my wind noise. When I bought my '84 Carrera this past August, I noticed that, at some point, Porsche had resolved this issue in a nearly identical fashion. You may want to try this on your '69. Good luck.

I was thinking the same, could it be part number 14 in the PET attached?

[Ian Comerford]

[Classic]

I’ve just changed the tube style seals to the correct profile for my 69.

The tube seal always made the doors hard to close, but with the new seals fitted it’s so much nicer.

I did as suggested above and with the wife touching various sections of the seal, quickly identified where the wind noise was coming from. I placed a strip of Dum Dum behind the seal over about 300mm in the area around the 1/4 window.

Happy with everything about going back to the original profile. The frames needed to be adjusted slightly, but no leaks, the doors operate as they should, and I feel there’s less wind noise compared to the tube seal.

[H-viken]

Originally Posted by thetorch

The window frames can also be adjusted inwards as well to improve the seal with the weather stripping.

This stopped most of the whistle I was getting at highway speeds.

Hijacking a bit since same topic. Which bolts need to be loosened in order to move the front of the frame inwards? I have a gap between the frame and the gasket, but only in the front. Other than that the frame fits nicely every which way

[Classic]

Two at the front, one under the door top, and the main one that allows tilt is in the bottom under the window winder.

[PeteKz]

Ian C, yes that part #14 is the filler piece.

Classic, glad you found most of the wind noise. Trust me, there are more sources you haven't found yet! But keep working at it over time and you'll squelch them.

H-Viken, add to what Classic wrote. You will have to take off the door card to get to the forward adjustments. The rear of the frame is held to the door at the back top of the door, and the back bottom of the door. There are some 1" rubber or plastic plugs that cover the screws. Take them out and you will see how to do it. Also refer to the picture Ian posted above.

[pampadori]

The red arrows are the bolts that need to be loosened in order to adjust the window at the top.

[H-viken]

Thanks, I have removed the door side and the black plugs. Will give it a try.

There’s not a whole lot of room between the door skin and the longer leg above (the one w the bracket), but maybe that’s not needed? Guess I’ll find out

[hughc]

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