Dropping just the engine easier?

[Porsche_911s]

I wanted to post a quick question. I have always dropped the transmission and engine as a unit. Is it easier and time saving to just drop the engine?

I'd think trying to tighten the bolts to the engine would be a real PITA!

[tirwin]

I have only done it by dropping both the engine and the transmission together. For the life of me I can't see how dropping just the engine could be easier than dropping both. Maybe it depends on your method. "Dog in heat" versus using a lift?

[cabmandone]

Don't see how dropping just the engine would be easier when you have to line things up to connect the engine to the trans.

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by Porsche_911s

I wanted to post a quick question. I have always dropped the transmission and engine as a unit. Is it easier and time saving to just drop the engine?

I'd think trying to tighten the bolts to the engine would be a real PITA!

Yes. It is easier to drop the engine less the transmission. But the biggest problem confronting you with this engine removal is putting it back. Lining up the engine and transmission on the floor requires some alignment technique. Getting the motor back to the transmission mounted in the car is a totally different story. If you don't have a lift and never done this before, do not do it!!!! Do the tandem method (engine & transmission) and you would not regret it.

But if you are the kind of person who wants to do it the hard and difficult way, try it and share your experience. I don't recommend a 911 engine drop less transmission. You need the correct set up and equipment to get the motor back and extra hands if you go without the transmission. Don't even think doing it with the G-50 combo.

Tony

[turbo owner]

Save a lot of headache, pull and install as one.

[McLovin]

I've done it both ways, at home with just jackstands and floor jacks.

It's easier and quicker to just drop the engine.

That's the way any shop would do it, and they are in the biz of not making extra work for themselves.

Don't listen to anyone who has not personally done it both ways.

(But it's not a big deal to take both out, either.)

[Porsche_911s]

I guess there is enough room to separate the engine from the trans? I think that aspect and tighten the trans bolts is why I was hesitating. With the 3.2 I also have the fly wheel sensors to deal with.

[Flat6pac]

Flywheel sensors stay with engine
Pulling just engine, remember the starter and back up lights
Pulling everything, remember ground strap and speedometer wires, and starter
Doing a 3.2 remember the injector block.
Bruce

[Peter Zimmermann]

My shop never considered pulling the engine/trans as a unit, unless the trans was to be worked on. It's much quicker to pull engine only on pre-G50 cars, just disconnect throttle linkage, oil lines at reservoir, breather hoses, wires (including starter and reverse switch), clutch cable at bell housing, and lay the A/C compressor over onto a thick pad on the RR quarter panel. On most models, 2.7s, SCs, etc., you should remove the ignition coil and lay it down on the engine. This will give you that little extra space to clear the body.

Put your jack under the engine, remove the two, outboard, rear engine mount bolts, lower the engine a few inches, and reach past the intake system to remove the two upper eng to trans nuts. Slide under the car and remove the two lower eng to trans nuts, and slide the engine back. You can lower it just enough that the top of the fan housing (minus the coil!) clears the rear body/engine bay seal. When the engine is clear of the trans, lower it until the jack is almost fully down, and pull the unit from under the car.

Important note. After the engine is out, the trans will be hanging. Do not leave it in that position; the weight of the trans will put pressure on the shift rod, which will compress the shift fork seal and cause it to leak after the car is back together. Use your jack to raise the rear of the trans to approximate its installed position, and tie it up using coat hangars, or similar, looped through the upper trans to eng bolt holes and around the upper shock towers.

FYI; to remove only the engine on a G 50 car, that's best left to the pros! If you have doubts about doing this I suggest that you remove the inboard CV joints and the shift linkage inside the tunnel, and remove the trans with the engine. Whatever you do, always be sure that the car is safely supported and can't fall on you!!!

[gamin]

There are always exceptions to the rules. Some early cars require engine/trans come out as a unit. 70/71 factory workshop manual section 1, page1, paragraph 1, remove engine and transmission as a unit. Early in the life of my 70 it needed a clutch change. The local dealer tried the engine only method and managed to muck things up and incurred the wrath of the german regional mechanic and thus got me a free clutch and seal replacement.

[rattlsnak]

depends on why you are dropping the engine. are you planning on separating the trans once you get it out and then push it in the corner, or are you dropping to get access to something else on the engine only, etc? Either way, it is much quicker/easier to drop them as a unit.

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by rattlsnak

depends on why you are dropping the engine. are you planning on separating the trans once you get it out and then push it in the corner, or are you dropping to get access to something else on the engine only, etc? Either way, it is much quicker/easier to drop them as a unit.

Total agreement with your post above. And this is the 'Common wisdom'. In addendum to the subject;

The FSM (Factory Shop Manual) volume I for Carrera 3.2 clearly stated the procedures for 'Removing and Installing Engine'. There are about 28 highlighted steps on the process of removing the engine from the car.

Step #25. Unscrew bolts on transmission carrier.

Step #26. Unscrew bolts on engine carrier.

Step #27. Lower workshop jack with engine/transmission assembly ..........

Step #28. Pull and roll out engine/transmission assembly toward the rear of the car.


See page 10-6 (FSM) and look at the picture of the engine/transmission sitting on the floor jack. Where would you find any written instruction to remove the engine separately from the transmission? Haynes Manual?

Tony

[crustychief]

I just pull the engine on my atv jack. I have done it three times and didn't have a problem lining things back up. I never wanted to mess with the driveshaft bolts or any of the extra stuff. More than one way to skin a cat.

[tirwin]

So in summary, to each his own.

[Dr DIY]

As a strictly non professional DIY guy who works alone, I find it easier to drop both as a unit. I can easily understand the pros doing the engine separate.

[Dr DIY]

Bit off topic - many thanks to Pete Zimmerman for his complete trans info online. I hope to make full use of it in the future.

[yelcab1]

I have personally dropped an engine, slap a clutch on, and get it back in the car in one day using the engine and tranny method. How much easier do you want to get?

I also have dropped the engine and tranny by myself many times. How much easier do you want?

[Porsche_911s]

So I did drop the engine by itself. It only too me and a helper 4 hours. It was less work and less time. It was a little stressful separating the engine from the transmission but now that I have done it once it seems fairly easy. Now getting the fork on the TOB when I am putting the engine in might make for a little stress!

Thanks for the replies!

[Flat6pac]

Use the mirror and flashlight as you look over the top of the engine. You already have the studs on. Use the clutch arm with your helper to engage the TOB, leverage with the clutch arm to engage and pull engine together.
Bruce

[Porsche_911s]

Originally Posted by Flat6pac

Use the mirror and flashlight as you look over the top of the engine. You already have the studs on. Use the clutch arm with your helper to engage the TOB, leverage with the clutch arm to engage and pull engine together.
Bruce

I will use the new $79 scope with LED lights I just bought!