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Registered User
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Anyone have a clever idea on fixing this?
Not that uncommon of an issue but with how far down the bolt snapped it isn't going to be easy.
And tips to pass along? Thanks!
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1967 912 (now w/ 50% fewer random holes in it) 911 w/ 3.2 1974 914 (3.2L swap underway) 1984 928s (S4 engine and suspension), 1987 928S4 |
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1967 912 (now w/ 50% fewer random holes in it) 911 w/ 3.2 1974 914 (3.2L swap underway) 1984 928s (S4 engine and suspension), 1987 928S4 |
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: MYR S.C.
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drill and use an easy out
weld a nut on top, oh wait, you said clever, then no
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86 930 94kmiles [_ ![]() 88 BMW 325is 200K+ SOLD 03 BMW 330CI 220K:: [_ ![]() 01 suburban 330K:: [_ ![]() RACE CAR:: sold |
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Troy, Mi
Posts: 1,937
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Does the bolt go straight through? Looks like it might, if so, use a centerpunch to make a divot and start drilling with a regular drill bit that's smaller than the shaft of the bolt. As it heats / weakens the threads it may grab the bolt and turn it right through.
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Matt - 84 Carrera |
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Registered User
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Ha, thanks for the response.
Will try to get a drill to get purchase on top of the bolt
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1967 912 (now w/ 50% fewer random holes in it) 911 w/ 3.2 1974 914 (3.2L swap underway) 1984 928s (S4 engine and suspension), 1987 928S4 |
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: SC
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...or you could try a left-handed drill bit. Sometimes that'll back the broken part right out.
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Carlsbad,Ca.
Posts: 1,105
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Soak with PB blaster to start with for sure.
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1981 911SC Targa-1966 912 -1989 Alfa Spider Graduate 1967 912-1985 Toyota FJ60 Landcrusier 1985 Toyota SR5 4x4-1965 Baja Bug-1997-4Runner-4x4 1966 Bug stock-2004 Toyota Rav4-1989 XJ6 Jag 1975 914, 1965 Norton N15CS 750, 1975 Husqvarna 360 CR GP 1982 Honda 500 XLS |
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76 911S Targa
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Idaho
Posts: 1,150
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Discussed on this forum in many places is the use of ATF/acetone as penetrating oil. It is certainly the best I have used. Paint it onto the bolt remnant with a small paint brush. Let soak, at least overnight, then use a left hand drill. Are you feeling lucky?
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76 911S, 2.7, Bursch Thermal Reactor Replacements, Smog Pump Removed, Magnecors, Silicone Valve Cover Gaskets, 11 Blade Fan, Carrera Oil Cooler, Turbo Tie Rods. |
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911 enthusiast
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Is it flush with the metal? If you’ve even got a *little* to bite into, I’ve had some great luck with the Irwin bolt extractors.
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Join Date: Feb 2006
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if drilling, first grind bolt flat, then hit centre with centre punch, you need to give your drill a chance to start off close to the middle.
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1976 Yamaha XS360 ( Beats Walkin') 1978 911 SC Targa ( Yamaha Support Vehicle ) 2006 Audi A4 2.0T (Porsche Support Vehicle ) 2014 Audi A4 2.0T Technik (Audi Support Vehicle) |
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Is there only one spot weld on each end of the nut plate? If so could you drill out each spot weld? Might be easier to work on
David |
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Quote:
I also let a soldering iron sit in the hole for five/six minutes to free-up the Loctite however dubious any actual effect. |
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Registered User
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Thanks you for all the ideas and suggestions, I'm going to try to drill it tomorrow and see where I get to.
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1967 912 (now w/ 50% fewer random holes in it) 911 w/ 3.2 1974 914 (3.2L swap underway) 1984 928s (S4 engine and suspension), 1987 928S4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Great NorthWest
Posts: 3,936
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A classic issue. I suggest you heat it up first, MAPP or Acet, as well as you can esp. if it is a through bolt (both ends), then take a punch and hammer and tap it sharply, This serves to break some parts of the corrosion. With the bolt still warm, douse with penetrating oil (I like Acetone and ATF), and tap a few more times. Heat it up later just for fun
Now get a good quality new drill bit and quality easy out kit and have at it. The overall philosophy here is to loosen the item as much as you can before applying the final solution. Heat is always your friend and perversely it seems applying a tightening torque to snapped bolts helps. I assume it just lets the penetrating oil get into more surface area. Good luck you will pull this thing out.
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'78 Targa in Minerva Blue |
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Find a piece of thin walled tube or the like slightly larger than the bolt about 1-2 inches long and use it as a guide for a drill bit that just fits inside the tube. Drill a nice divot dead center of the bolt. Then start with a 1/8 drill bit and drill it through, repeat with the next larger size until you can pick the threads out or clean it with a tap. Use oil so you don't ruin your bits and go slowly.
My non dexterous ass has done this procedure numerous times and yours looks like an excellent candidate for this procedure. Worst case you use a helicoil, but I've never had to. Ez outs suck IMO... a great tool to replace a soft broken bolt with hardened steel! Last edited by blpetry; 08-08-2018 at 06:00 PM.. |
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cycling has-been
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Jersey Shore
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Where is that? - chassis seat rails?
Bill K
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73 911T MFI, 76 912E, 77 Turbo Carrera |
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Location: Gulf Coast FL
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looks like a parcel shelf screw bracket, good luck drilling without pulling the back window
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do this.
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Holy cats if that's the parcel shelf bracket forget what I told you.
Again, good luck!
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'78 Targa in Minerva Blue |
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Whatever you do, do not break the bit off in the bolt. It happens all the time for first timers. Take it slow steady pressure but don’t push so hard you start bending and break off the bit. It’s get really hard after that.
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