The $25 Axle Wrench

[Quicksilver]

Pulling both my axles and when trying to loosen the first nut with my 1/2" breaker bar I loaded it until it had at least a 10° bend in the handle before I though better of it and stopped. (I just imagined it going 'plink' and having a piece fly into the air and land on the car...)
Made a half hearted attempt to borrow a wrench but that still left the question of how to get an accurate torque once I was done...


So mad scientist time ... and I built the "nuclear hardened axle wrench"!




I picked up a cheap 32mm impact socket ($4.99 Harbor Freight), some 1"x2" rectangular tubing, and some 1.5" schedule 40 steel pipe. The socket necks down to 1-1/2" so it slid nicely into the pipe. A 4" long section of pipe spaces it nicely so it clears the Carrera fender. Break out the TIG and once it cooled down I was ready to go! (And I still have enough steel to make another one.)

$600 to $1000 for a 3/4" drive torque wrench? I don't think so! I made the1"x2" handle 3' long so I can figure out the torque easily to retorque the bolts. A third of the 340ft/lbs works out to 113lbs of force on the end and I can measure that with a simple scale pushed on the end of it.
(I still can't remember how I did the last axle 15 years ago. I must have used a length of pipe and guestimated the weight on the end...)

[Justin@Athens]

I'm pretty sure you could sell these in the classifieds!

[DRACO A5OG]

Oh yeah, had to use my jack's arm for leverage, Hewh, those suckers are on tight.

[Jdub]

Get some black cork bicycle tape and wrap up the handle end of your creation. I do this for all my cheater bars and it looks and feels great.

[Reiver]

I have a 1" ratchet that long(er) a guy actually gave me years ago...damn thing is 4' long and was used to break the nuts on tank bogey wheels.
Good idea!

[rusnak]

I have to step on mine, so I bought a breaker bar one. That way, you don't have to try to step on the bar when it's at a steep angle. Just flip the bar over, or re-clock the socket.

On the OPs model, would the handle end up too steep to get your foot on it?

[yelcab1]

I have a 3/4 breaker bar and long cheater pipe for those purposes.

[patz]

Me three

[SCadaddle]

A must have for those of us with an early VW!

[mattC2993]

Too bad there isn't a Torque Dude tool like for VW/Porsche 356 36mm axle and flywheel nuts.+

[SCadaddle]

Now you've got me curious as to what Porsche recommends with regard to the wheel bearings when breaking the axle nut loose or tightening it to the proper torque. At least on a Subaru the procedure is to do this with no load on the bearing i.e. the hub needs to be in the air and not supporting the weight of the vehicle.

[bugstrider]

Originally Posted by SCadaddle

A must have for those of us with an early VW!

Had one of these for our 66 dub. It didn't seem or feel right whacking away with a 3# sledge to get those high torque settings.

[SCadaddle]

Originally Posted by bugstrider

Had one of these for our 66 dub. It didn't seem or feel right whacking away with a 3# sledge to get those high torque settings.

230 Ft. lbs. or if you just went past the hole in the axle where the cotter pin fits you wind up taking her to 845 Ft. lbs. to get to the next spot!

[manbridge 74]

I'm not against this jungle method in general. But I've one hint/ guideline. Please paint mark on nut and hub before disassembly and make sure the final guess torque puts nut mark slightly past hub mark on reassembly.

Too many variables...

[sc_rufctr]

Originally Posted by mattC2993

Too bad there isn't a Torque Dude tool like for VW/Porsche 356 36mm axle and flywheel nuts.+

This is cool!

[jlex]

I've never understood why the Torquemeister tool (pictured) was never adapted for use on Porsches. I have one that I use on my Beetle and it's perfect. You can use a wimpy 3/8" wrench to take off the most stubborn axle bolt. You use a torque wrench to measure when tightening. If I recall, it multiplies leverage 9X to loosen or tighten. Is also adaptable to remove the flywheel when doing a clutch replacement. I checked mine out on the 911, and it won't work as configured. Somebody needs to contact Torquemeister to have them re-design it for use on Porsches. I'm sure there's a market there...

[Driven97]

Now you're just like those cool kids with the gt3s and their centerlocks.

[KTL]

Nicely done Wayne. Goes to show that a welder (and it doesn't have to be a TIG, not that I have anything against TIG) is a great tool to have in the garage. And you didn't have to do ANY "machining" with your choice of pieces!

Otherwise you end up like most people and buy a 3/4" drive breaker bar, 3/4" drive extension, appropriate socket (SAE equivalent works) and a piece of galvanized pipe from Home Depot for more leverage. 1/2 drive stuff usually breaks. I broke two 1/2" drive extensions on the late style axle nuts before deciding bigger toolage was gonna be needed

[jlex]

Or do it the easy way & just zip it off using your impact gun

[scottrx7tt]

i used a 3/4" drive impact wrench, and took them right off.