Control Arm Removal & Alignment

sagolfer · 12-13-2015, 06:46 AM

I'm getting ready to replace my control arm bushings on the front of my 1986 Targa. I would like to avoid getting an alignment afterwards. Several years (and a few thousand miles) ago I replaced my ball joints, wheel bearings, struts and put in turbo tie rods. I then had it professionally aligned.

I've read lots of "how to"'s but nothing on doing the job without an alignment. Is it possible to replace the front control arm bushings without requiring another alignment?

Thanks for any advice.

Brando · Brando's Garage

Most times, changes to the suspension will warrant an alignment. Especially bushings because they wear & deflect over time. Imagine the OE rubber after 30 years and driving compared to brand new rubber, poly, or bearings? It's going to be very different afterwards.

gregwils · gregwils's Garage

I guess it depends on your budget, or how cheap you are if you have the money. Replacing the control arm means you are just popping the ball joint off the arm, so you aren't touching toe, camber or caster, therefore you could probably leave the alignment alone. However, an alignment isn't $500+, I would recommend you do, but it's your nickel.

jason2guy · 12-13-2015, 10:03 PM

just do the string alignment- the front is the easy part. set up the strings before you take everything apart and make note of the settings and then upon reassembly put it back to those specs

Jesse16 · Jesse16's Garage

Agree that strings will do a fine job. Pretty Low tech and completely accurate.

RichardNew · RichardNew's Garage

I've seen a lot of the ALMS teams use string at the 12 Hours of Sebring. It does work.

Speaking of control arm bushings you're doing the smart thing by using rubber. I went the other way with Rebel Racing and have some issues. Read about it here.

The concept behind RR is very good. In practice though it's not so good.

Richard Newton

sagolfer · 12-14-2015, 11:31 AM

Great. Thanks for all the help.

It's not so much the cost of the alignment. It's the pain in the rear of dropping it off and picking it back up again. I also like to do as much as I can myself.

From what I've read, the Elephant Racing rubber bushings would be my best choice. I wouldn't mind so much doing the job over again in 2-3 years but the seems the car's ride would be better with the ER. Again, from what I read.

Reiver · 12-14-2015, 12:00 PM

I'm in the process of this now. Using the rubber from Elephant...the kit is spendy but it works just as easily as the vids show with the tool provided.
I used a 3/4 in pipe clamp...piece of cake.
My torsion bars were surprisingly rusty (car always in Az/SoCal) and pitted so am waiting for the 21mm T bars to show today before reassembly. I suspect someone was using a powerwasher underneath as the rest of the car is totally rust free ('83 SC).
I do my own alignment/height adjusting so I'll let you know tomorrow if/how much I had to adjust.
BTW, change out your sway bar bushings at the same time.

sagolfer · 12-14-2015, 03:52 PM

I plan on using the threaded rod method to push the new bushings on since I don't have a long clamp. I also plan on replacing the sway arm bushings as well. I'll be digging into home alignment methods as well. Yes, please share what you discover. Thanks.

jason2guy · 12-14-2015, 06:19 PM

i did the elephant rubber bushings and they came out great. they are a bit pricey but well worth it

Reiver · 12-15-2015, 03:34 PM

Sagolfer,
All done with the deal.
My alignment was off 1/8 in too much toe out.
The first thing I did was set the ride height (25 in. ground to top center wheel well)...I had to re index a bit as I went with 21 mm T bars).
Drove it to settle things a bit and re set height again (settled about 1/8th in).

To set my alignment I use 4 vinyl floor tiles...two under each tire with oil in between on the smooth facings allows for tire movement, very easy to adjust then,

String down the side for even stance and then I just use a tape measure from know pt. center of tire making sure I have 1/16 or so more toe in front to back. Every time I adjust I shake the steering wheel to allow for mvmt./straighten/recheck measurement.

I actually spend more time getting my steering wheel even...bugs me if it's off.

I've used this tech for years and have almost 20k miles on this set of tires with perfectly even wear.

I'm glad this job is done for another 20 years or so.

sagolfer · 12-16-2015, 05:06 PM

Reiver, thanks.

I guess I'll dive in and purchase the Elephant bushings and read more on alignment. Was hoping someone would jump in and say - "Hey, use this brand bushing they cost half as much as work twice as well". Guess that's not going to happen.

sagolfer · 12-16-2015, 05:14 PM

Now you got me thinking about height. While I'm down there...

KTL · 12-17-2015, 06:56 AM

My opinion is you're shooting yourself in the foot if you think you don't need to get an alignment. Like the others said, bushing creep over time changes the alignment. New bushings will re-position the control arm and thus change alignment oh so slightly.

Also, to remove the control arm you must pull out your torsion bars. Once you disturb the torsion bars, you're affecting your ride height. The front end of the old 911 is VERY sensitive to alignment in terms of ride height. Change your height and your static toe instantly changes.

I agree toe plates or the string method is easy and accurate. Not hard to do. Thanks to RoninLB (RIP Ronnie) for introducing a lot of us Pelican people to Ray Scruggs' DIY alignment book for old 911s

Toe Adjust Techniquest

Reiver · 12-17-2015, 07:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sagolfer

Reiver, thanks.

I guess I'll dive in and purchase the Elephant bushings and read more on alignment. Was hoping someone would jump in and say - "Hey, use this brand bushing they cost half as much as work twice as well". Guess that's not going to happen.

I don't know anyone that makes a rubber bushing to the right oem specs (size/hardness) but these guys. You can find other rubber but it is thinner to allow for easier application (and quicker wear out). Squeak's drive me crazy in a road car and poly or whatever will squeak in my experience...I have some on the back end and they are coming out.

bpu699 · 12-17-2015, 07:35 AM

The caster is the only thing thats hard to set... Cmaber can easily be done with a digital level. Toe can be done with a couple two by fours and a tape measure... Caster... not so much...

When you change the bushings, your caster will change, because the a-arm will either be sligtly more forward or back, depending on how the new bushing settles...